First impression towing with 6.9 NA

[Cubey]

Then I would do the best you can with what you have. Replace the fuel filter, advance the timing some, lube all bearings and check the brakes for dragging. When you replace the fuel filter fill it with ATF or Diesel fuel additive......then start the truck, let it idle for about 15 seconds and turn off and let it sit over night. The go out and run it hard for a bit.

As far as the GP thing, instead of spending the $$ on a new controller, why don't you just do the push button mod? Then you can simply hold the button down for 8-15 seconds (depending on temp) prior to starting it. This would take your controller out of the picture and you wouldn't need to worry about it malfunctioning and leaving you stranded.

It’s the relay that’s going bad, not the controller. It has the 7.3 glow plug controller/relay. I have a manual button but I put back the controller setup so I could see the WTS light to know if it was kicking on at the relay. The relay sits up on top of the controller and can be replaced on its own for less than the whole thing.

What kind of ATF? The fuel filter has less than 10k on it.

 

[jayro88]

It’s the relay that’s going bad, not the controller. It has the 7.3 glow plug controller/relay. I have a manual button but I put back the controller setup so I could see the WTS light to know if it was kicking on at the relay. The relay sits up on top of the controller and can be replaced on its own for less than the whole thing.

What kind of ATF? The fuel filter has less than 10k on it.

Yes the relays are a lot less than the whole controller. I have replaced them before as well.

As far as the ATF, probably any kind except Type F. There is a lot of debate about if ATF works well (or even does anything). I have used it and have also used Diesel Kleen. Diesel Kleen is more expensive but may do a better job. I use ATF whenever I put on a new filter because I usually have some laying around.

Did you also check the throttle cable?

Do you have an EGT Gauge? If you are towing this is a very important item to have. It is pretty easy to exceed the 1100* limit while towing up a hill.

 

[franklin2]

I have my fan permanently locked, and I still get 15mpg. I think he is cooling ok, if it were not that temp would have climbed way higher than 220 when the engine is pulling it's guts out.

 

[Cubey]

Yes the relays are a lot less than the whole controller. I have replaced them before as well.

As far as the ATF, probably any kind except Type F. There is a lot of debate about if ATF works well (or even does anything). I have used it and have also used Diesel Kleen. Diesel Kleen is more expensive but may do a better job. I use ATF whenever I put on a new filter because I usually have some laying around.

Did you also check the throttle cable?

Do you have an EGT Gauge? If you are towing this is a very important item to have. It is pretty easy to exceed the 1100* limit while towing up a hill.

No I haven’t checked the throttle cable yet.

No EGT yet.

 

[Cubey]

It seems as though I will probably have to seek out a diesel repair shop who can properly time it, there is no one very active around here in the registry.

 

[jayro88]

It seems as though I will probably have to seek out a diesel repair shop who can properly time it, there is no one very active around here in the registry.

Mark where it is at currently. Then move it about the thickness of a dime, tighten it down and see how it does. Take a video and post it. That is how a lot of people do it. I would really recommend getting an EGT gauge.

Most shops are not going to have the equipment to time it......even a good one.


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[Cubey]

Mark where it is at currently. Then move it about the thickness of a dime, tighten it down and see how it does. Take a video and post it. That is how a lot of people do it. I would really recommend getting an EGT gauge.

Most shops are not going to have the equipment to time it......even a good one.


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Take a video of what? And adjust what, which way?

EGT is on my to do list.

 

[Cubey]

Based on this, it’s a bad idea to try without proper tools and experience.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/idi-timing.47364/#post-541503

 

[jayro88]

Take a video of what? And adjust what, which way?

EGT is on my to do list.

To adjust the timing you loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP in place. Then you rotate the up towards the passenger side to advance the timing. If it doesn’t want to rotate you can loosen the fuel lines at the back of the IP. Before starting it up make sure you tighten the nuts and lines. Don’t rotate the IP with the engine running or you can damage it.

You can video it running afterwards so forum members can hear how it sounds. It sounds different as the timing changes.

Google videos of settings the timing. There are a few good how to videos.


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[jayro88]

Based on this, it’s a bad idea to try without proper tools and experience.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/idi-timing.47364/#post-541503

I guess. People have different opinions. Mine is to do your research and take your time.

Everyone has to start somewhere. How do you get experience if you never start doing it?


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[pelky350]

The throttle cable should be checked i never really thought about it till I rememberes my gutless bronco. Saw a video online one day and rememined me how I fixed my broncos power problem. It only had like 40% throttle usage on that thing lol then I thought about my truck you could put something relitivly heavy on the pedal to were into feels like it's down all the way as a one person job. Then look under the hood and see if you can push the throttle any further towards the fire wall. I have a crap parts store cable on mine and I had to hack it apart to make my truck have full throttle again. The parts store ones limit out before full throttle even when new. Old ones stretch and don't allow full throttle movement. Better off taking slack out of old one than buying new. You should have egt guage towing anyway. And fixing the throttle cable doesn't mean your making any extra fuel it just means your actuall your getting all your stock fueling.

 

[Cubey]

I need to take a picture of the kind of broken and held together with wire throttle cable end.

That wouldn’t explain poor mpg though.

 

[Macrobb]

I need to take a picture of the kind of broken and held together with wire throttle cable end.

New ones are available cheaply

That wouldn’t explain poor mpg though.

Retarded timing most likely. Timing is the most important thing for power and effeciency on these, and the thing that most needs adjustment on a regular basis - mechanical IPs and injectors wear and shift timing around quite a bit(usually towards the retarded side.

I'm one of those guys who just times by ear - I have a luminosity probe, but just found that I get better results listening to it. I haven't done badly looking at my power numbers, either.
I believe that with a new IP, you can time by the numbers. With a worn one, the timing curve will be out of whack in any case, so you just adjust it as best you can for a slight diesel rattle and no white/gray/blue smoke under load(smoke should only be black, and only when pushing really ******* the throttle, and there shouldn't be much of it)

 

[Cubey]

New ones are available cheaply

Retarded timing most likely. Timing is the most important thing for power and effeciency on these, and the thing that most needs adjustment on a regular basis - mechanical IPs and injectors wear and shift timing around quite a bit(usually towards the retarded side.

I'm one of those guys who just times by ear - I have a luminosity probe, but just found that I get better results listening to it. I haven't done badly looking at my power numbers, either.
I believe that with a new IP, you can time by the numbers. With a worn one, the timing curve will be out of whack in any case, so you just adjust it as best you can for a slight diesel rattle and no white/gray/blue smoke under load(smoke should only be black, and only when pushing really ******* the throttle, and there shouldn't be much of it)

I’d gladly pay somebody a little something to time it properly, or at least better, even if by ear. It will pay for itself in fuel savings alone.

 

[chillman88]

I’d gladly pay somebody a little something to time it properly, or at least better, even if by ear. It will pay for itself in fuel savings alone.

While I respect that you are worried to try it yourself, you really should give it a shot. Mark where the IP is in relation to the flange, loosen the three bolts holding it on, and turn it 1/16 of an inch towards the passenger side. You won't destroy it if you do it with the ENGINE OFF. You don't need a turnbuckle like the guy in the video, but it'll help.

The shiny spot is where you want to mark those two mating surfaces. Those two nuts to the right of it are two of the three you need to loosen to get it to move.

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