I actually just got it loose with a standard open end on a common craftsman wrench. Looks like I have to loosen the fuel lines to get it to turn. It’s under too much tension to turn towards the passenger side.
First impression towing with 6.9 NA
- Thread starter Cubey
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I actually just got it loose with a standard open end on a common craftsman wrench. Looks like I have to loosen the fuel lines to get it to turn. It’s under too much tension to turn towards the passenger side.
I did an awful job modding my 14mm wrench but I did it just good enough to get it put back. I ruined the open end by cutting away too much. I cut open the box end ok but then cut the shaft too short to get much leverage but it was just enough I figure.
At first I thought it was running worse, but that was because I forgot to retighten a fuel line out of the IP. Oops! No wonder it felt shaky on acceleration.
I wasn’t towing in the quick 30mph tops test drive after tightening that, but it seems perhaps better. I will know better once I hitch up and leave in a couple days. It seemed fine the old way without towing too.
Here are the lines now. That’s as best as I could get it. The lower fuel lines off the IP are impossible to reach without pulling it. So I only loosened the ones I could reach with my flare nut wrench. Then that’s about as far as I come turn it without excessive force, holding it while tightening the top center nut to hold it in place.
Oh and I turned off the manual switch for cold advance before running it after the adjustment.
At first I thought it was running worse, but that was because I forgot to retighten a fuel line out of the IP. Oops! No wonder it felt shaky on acceleration.
I wasn’t towing in the quick 30mph tops test drive after tightening that, but it seems perhaps better. I will know better once I hitch up and leave in a couple days. It seemed fine the old way without towing too.
Here are the lines now. That’s as best as I could get it. The lower fuel lines off the IP are impossible to reach without pulling it. So I only loosened the ones I could reach with my flare nut wrench. Then that’s about as far as I come turn it without excessive force, holding it while tightening the top center nut to hold it in place.
Oh and I turned off the manual switch for cold advance before running it after the adjustment.
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Sure hope that helps man 
Sure hope that helps man
So do I. Between that and using Diesel kleen or MMO in the fuel, perhaps things will improve. I might stick to MMO once DK runs out because it’s so much cheaper. Plus I can use it in my gas generator.
Try the cold advance jumper again at idle now that you have advanced it some. See if you hear a difference in the engine now. If you do, you are getting very close to being right on the timing. If you still hear no difference, you have a little more to go.
Nope, I still say I can’t hear a difference. I guess that’s as good as it’s going to get.
Is it even possible to loosen the bottom fuel lines on the IP without pulling it?
I read that you have to loosen them or else you can stress them too much and crack them. I couldn’t turn it any further than you see and that much was with some pressure to hold it in place.
Loosening just the top 4 or 5 plus the inlet line was just enough to get it where it is.
Fixnstuff
Full Access Member
WOW, sure are a lot of posts since I last looked and I don't have time to look at them now.
I wrote a reply (off-line) awhile back which I have in a folder and I will post it later tonight.
Basically it says: Your truck should be performing MUCH MUCH BETTER THAN THAT! I agree about tune up but I see another big factor
I have basically the same truck with a bit more airflow through the engine and exhaust and I would BET that my truck could tow that trailer at 75 MPH on flat interstate highway with no difficulties! BTW I looked up that trailer back when I wrote the reply and as I perceive it, it should weigh around 4,000 lbs unloaded, IS THAT CORRECT?
I pulled 3,000 lbs on the interstate at up to 85MPH and I could have gone faster, Maybe 90MPH, but here is one of the big differences:
ONE of your problems IS WIND RESISTANCE and excess turbulence due to the front and probably more-so the BACK surface (being vertical) of that Camper Shell. I understand airflow stuff very well, I explain that in the post I wrote OFF-LINE about a week or more ago which I'll put up later tonight. There are some ways you can IMPROVE that with the existing camper shell OR you might find one cheap that's a lot more aerodynamic and more suitable for pulling that trailer.
No time now, I NEED A BREAK.
I wrote a reply (off-line) awhile back which I have in a folder and I will post it later tonight.
Basically it says: Your truck should be performing MUCH MUCH BETTER THAN THAT! I agree about tune up but I see another big factor
I have basically the same truck with a bit more airflow through the engine and exhaust and I would BET that my truck could tow that trailer at 75 MPH on flat interstate highway with no difficulties! BTW I looked up that trailer back when I wrote the reply and as I perceive it, it should weigh around 4,000 lbs unloaded, IS THAT CORRECT?
I pulled 3,000 lbs on the interstate at up to 85MPH and I could have gone faster, Maybe 90MPH, but here is one of the big differences:
ONE of your problems IS WIND RESISTANCE and excess turbulence due to the front and probably more-so the BACK surface (being vertical) of that Camper Shell. I understand airflow stuff very well, I explain that in the post I wrote OFF-LINE about a week or more ago which I'll put up later tonight. There are some ways you can IMPROVE that with the existing camper shell OR you might find one cheap that's a lot more aerodynamic and more suitable for pulling that trailer.
No time now, I NEED A BREAK.
I thought the camper shell wouldn’t matter much. The roof of it is sloped some and it’s no wider than the trailer. I thought it would be no worse than a flush camper shell.
Is it because wind hits the shell and the trailer vs just the trailer?
Is it because wind hits the shell and the trailer vs just the trailer?
I too am anxious to hear your full reply. I would have thought the cap would have actually helped with the trailer, kinda like those airfoil things guys who tow full time use, or like the windbreaks on top of Semi trucks.
My only guess would be because of how FLAT the cap is on the front, causing an immediate break instead of a gradual flow.
Except that I drove around for 10 months with the cap and don’t suffer such issues. I had a more aerodynamic fiberglass shell before but I needed something bigger and insulated. I only lost about 1 mpg with this one vs the fiberglass.
For a time I lost 1+mpg with these all cheap terrain tires (they were $105 each new) but right before I started towing, my city mpg went back up a little with no change in driving habit. Maybe the tires finally broke in.
I am only going about 25 miles today towing. I mostly hop from town along my route but sometimes it’s longer, say 70 miles. It just depends. I’ll probably still get a small sample if it’s doing any better today.
For a time I lost 1+mpg with these all cheap terrain tires (they were $105 each new) but right before I started towing, my city mpg went back up a little with no change in driving habit. Maybe the tires finally broke in.
I am only going about 25 miles today towing. I mostly hop from town along my route but sometimes it’s longer, say 70 miles. It just depends. I’ll probably still get a small sample if it’s doing any better today.
Here are a few pictures showing the height/width difference between the cap and trailer. It’s kind of soon to tell but it might have a little more power now. I didn’t hit any big hills though.
It mostly seems like it struggles to get out of 2nd (speed wise, not shift wise) if it falls to 40-45 on a hill. It drops to second around that speed too pretty easily if I accelerate far enough but that’s normal. But really it feels like a 4 speed OD would if it kept shifting to 3rd with OD on.
It mostly seems like it struggles to get out of 2nd (speed wise, not shift wise) if it falls to 40-45 on a hill. It drops to second around that speed too pretty easily if I accelerate far enough but that’s normal. But really it feels like a 4 speed OD would if it kept shifting to 3rd with OD on.
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Fixnstuff
Full Access Member
Hi Cubey. I'm just now getting back to this topic. I got really burned out last night after 12 hours straight on forums, reading and posting and answering emails.
I just found that old reply I wrote off line about a week ago and with some editing I'll post it in a little while.
What SIZE are those 'All Terrain' tires? You should be running 235/85/R16. I am not certain but I think that would be best for your towing too.
Wider tires won't help and shorter tires are going to change your shift speeds which could be a factor in your towing. If you have 235/85/R16s on it we could look a shift speeds which can be altered by adjusting the VRV but I'm going to recommend for now that you don't touch it. Especially if it seems to be shifting at appropriate speeds.
Your truck is a 2 wheel drive, Right?
The first comment you made above, losing 1mpg with this camper. I assume that is NOT while towing and I assume that is combined city and highway mileage? If it's combined cty/hwy then on the highway exclusively it's going to be worse than a 1mpg drop. Either way, I think that 1mpg is significant considering the mpg ranges you should be getting from the truck.
Setting that aside I just looked at the photos you posted of your truck and camper shell.
In terms of air flow or 'wind' resistance THAT IS A LOT WORSE THAN I ORIGINALLY THOUGHT!
All that I was able to look at before was the tiny icon sized profile photo under your user name in your posts. (I think it's usually called an Avatar) I had based my perception of your airflow resistance issues just on that single side view. Now I see from the close ups it is much worse than I thought.
You'll be able to see it and understand it too after you read my next post but I have to go through it and do some editing first. Actually I have to spend about 20 minutes on something else before I start editing that
Fixnstuff
Full Access Member
Sorry this is so long! (Side effect of pain meds that I can't do anything about). No concentration left to edit to make shorter.
I'm sorry to say that I got too late of start on re-writing that post, I just started about a half an hour ago and have given it two tries but I am way too tired and lack the concentration to re-write it now. I want it to be a very good and accurate post and that requires that I take enough time and care to write it. It's going to have to wait at least another day. Possibly two days but I'll get right to it at times when I am not busy with some really important stuff that is way behind schedule.
Looking at the pictures again just now and enlarging them it's not quite as bad as I thought I thought the trailer was further away from the back of the camper and that the gap between the cab window and camper was larger but that gap is one of the problems. There is a negative pressure or vacuum there that is pulling air down and creating turbulence between the two which is increasing the resistance, in effect across most of the front of the camper, not just the areas that extend beyond the height and width contours of the cab.
I am using the term 'Wind' for airflow. Where the wind hits the front of the camper, that is a "high pressure" zone (the air is compressed) and as it ***** over the edge of the roof and around the sides to a lower pressure zone the wind speed is actually increased. As it passes over the back edges roof and sides it creates another low pressure or 'vacuum affect' behind the whole camper and truck. That low pressure vacuum affect creates more turbulence and the negative pressure is increased by the fact that the back is vertical straight up and down, rather than like a more aerodynamic canopy where the back window is slanted down toward the back like mine is. (I'll put up a photo later)
I see the ramp up on the roof now a the back , which is good. That overhang at the back normally would not be good, it just increases the negative pressure under it which would pul in more air to make more turbulence. In their thinking when that was built it was perceived to be aerodynamic for some reason. I don't see it that way for what I just mentioned, increasing the negative pressure and turbulence. However I'm not certain if that is helping or hurting the the resistance at the front of the trailer but more turbulence behind your tow vehicle is probably going to increase the resistance at the front of the trailer.
All in all I think that the camper, aside from it creating quite a bit of drag may be increasing the resistance on the front of the trailer due to the turbulence rather than decreasing it.
I am not sure about that at the moment.
I need to study those pictures some more when I am not so tired!
That is a NICE little camp site! Are you living in that trailer? I lived in and travelled in, first a trailer then a small motor-home for close to about 12 years straight. LOVED IT. Before that I travelled in and lived in the back of my full size Jeep Cherokee for a few years (I loved that too! Most of that was in very remote areas). I want to do it again with a my truck and a fifth wheel after I move out of this state (to some place where the sun shines and it's warm or hot most of the time) but only live in the trailer part time. At my present age with some medical issues I need to have a home base. I want to rent a small cheap house out in the sticks or desert with a yard so I have room to work on things and a garage or at least a carport! all of which so I'll have a place to park things and work on things. I can hardly wait! I have a ton or two of tools and equipment that I can't even use where I live now.
BTW, I know how to fix and repair everything on these trailers and motor-homes inside and out and I've worked on many, not just my own. At one time I worked in a factory that built travel trailers so I know how they are put together inside out. If you ever have to replace dry rot you'll understand what I mean by being built "inside out" I also have a lot of additional training and skills (kind of on the professional side)
If you ever want to ask for some advice about repairing anything to do with Trailers/Rvs, send a private email. OR if there is a trailer section here post it there and notify me.
I gotta get off of here, it's 3:35 AM !!!
SORRY THIS WAS SO LONG (that and the insomnia are side effects of pain meds which I can't do anything to correct)
I'm sorry to say that I got too late of start on re-writing that post, I just started about a half an hour ago and have given it two tries but I am way too tired and lack the concentration to re-write it now. I want it to be a very good and accurate post and that requires that I take enough time and care to write it. It's going to have to wait at least another day. Possibly two days but I'll get right to it at times when I am not busy with some really important stuff that is way behind schedule.
Looking at the pictures again just now and enlarging them it's not quite as bad as I thought I thought the trailer was further away from the back of the camper and that the gap between the cab window and camper was larger but that gap is one of the problems. There is a negative pressure or vacuum there that is pulling air down and creating turbulence between the two which is increasing the resistance, in effect across most of the front of the camper, not just the areas that extend beyond the height and width contours of the cab.
I am using the term 'Wind' for airflow. Where the wind hits the front of the camper, that is a "high pressure" zone (the air is compressed) and as it ***** over the edge of the roof and around the sides to a lower pressure zone the wind speed is actually increased. As it passes over the back edges roof and sides it creates another low pressure or 'vacuum affect' behind the whole camper and truck. That low pressure vacuum affect creates more turbulence and the negative pressure is increased by the fact that the back is vertical straight up and down, rather than like a more aerodynamic canopy where the back window is slanted down toward the back like mine is. (I'll put up a photo later)
I see the ramp up on the roof now a the back , which is good. That overhang at the back normally would not be good, it just increases the negative pressure under it which would pul in more air to make more turbulence. In their thinking when that was built it was perceived to be aerodynamic for some reason. I don't see it that way for what I just mentioned, increasing the negative pressure and turbulence. However I'm not certain if that is helping or hurting the the resistance at the front of the trailer but more turbulence behind your tow vehicle is probably going to increase the resistance at the front of the trailer.
All in all I think that the camper, aside from it creating quite a bit of drag may be increasing the resistance on the front of the trailer due to the turbulence rather than decreasing it.
I am not sure about that at the moment.
I need to study those pictures some more when I am not so tired!
That is a NICE little camp site! Are you living in that trailer? I lived in and travelled in, first a trailer then a small motor-home for close to about 12 years straight. LOVED IT. Before that I travelled in and lived in the back of my full size Jeep Cherokee for a few years (I loved that too! Most of that was in very remote areas). I want to do it again with a my truck and a fifth wheel after I move out of this state (to some place where the sun shines and it's warm or hot most of the time) but only live in the trailer part time. At my present age with some medical issues I need to have a home base. I want to rent a small cheap house out in the sticks or desert with a yard so I have room to work on things and a garage or at least a carport! all of which so I'll have a place to park things and work on things. I can hardly wait! I have a ton or two of tools and equipment that I can't even use where I live now.
BTW, I know how to fix and repair everything on these trailers and motor-homes inside and out and I've worked on many, not just my own. At one time I worked in a factory that built travel trailers so I know how they are put together inside out. If you ever have to replace dry rot you'll understand what I mean by being built "inside out" I also have a lot of additional training and skills (kind of on the professional side)
If you ever want to ask for some advice about repairing anything to do with Trailers/Rvs, send a private email. OR if there is a trailer section here post it there and notify me.
I gotta get off of here, it's 3:35 AM !!!
SORRY THIS WAS SO LONG (that and the insomnia are side effects of pain meds which I can't do anything to correct)
Yes, 235s. It’s a 250 HD so that’s the tire size it calls for. As far as tire pressure, 52 front, 80 rear, 50 in the trailer tires (their max).
It had nearly worn out mismatched highway tires when I got the truck. At the time I wasn’t towing and since I go just a little off pavement, I decided on cheap all terrains. They probably have helped a couple times actually. Anyhow city was the noticeable mpg drop after I got the AT tires. But last month it suddenly went back up. Odd, I know. The tires seem to be wearing well.
Yes, 2WD 3 speed A/T. It was rebuilt within the last two years but the last owner. Besides the casing being obviously cleaner than a 30 year old one, I got a receipt from the trans shop he used. Maybe it’s worth mentioning that I seem to recall him mentioning it having, I think, a racing shift kit?
It had nearly worn out mismatched highway tires when I got the truck. At the time I wasn’t towing and since I go just a little off pavement, I decided on cheap all terrains. They probably have helped a couple times actually. Anyhow city was the noticeable mpg drop after I got the AT tires. But last month it suddenly went back up. Odd, I know. The tires seem to be wearing well.
Yes, 2WD 3 speed A/T. It was rebuilt within the last two years but the last owner. Besides the casing being obviously cleaner than a 30 year old one, I got a receipt from the trans shop he used. Maybe it’s worth mentioning that I seem to recall him mentioning it having, I think, a racing shift kit?
I think you are going down a rabbit trail. If you manually activate the timing advance, you should hear the engine start to rattle. Take the jumper out, the rattle goes away.
I do not know what to tell you about turning the pump some more. I know the lines can be touchy, but I would keep working with it and try to move the pump some more. You can always move it back, but I know when I activate my advance manually, it get the "powerstroke rattle" that everyone talks about.
I do not know what to tell you about turning the pump some more. I know the lines can be touchy, but I would keep working with it and try to move the pump some more. You can always move it back, but I know when I activate my advance manually, it get the "powerstroke rattle" that everyone talks about.
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