Oh! I just got an idea for a temporary solution. Assuming cold timing advance is working, I can jumper the terminals so its always on. It’s not a long term fix, but it might help until I can get it timed properly. Thoughts?
First impression towing with 6.9 NA
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
You could try it to see what the results are as far as performance. That could give you an idea if advancing the timing would make a difference.
As far as running that way continually, i would be leery about it. I am not sure exactly how much the cold advance bumps the timing, but I think it may be more than you would want.
I am sure others will the more information will chime in.
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How do you mark it with a gouge like that?
sjwelds
Full Access Member
@icanfixall says to use a center punch right on the joint, that way you can put it back exactly where it was if you don't like it. Makes sense to me.
It only advances it an average of two degrees throughout the curve, it’s fine to use when running, but only have it energized when fuel is flowing, otherwise it will get hot
Thanks. Sounds like a good way for the OP to test advancing the timing.
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Just jumpering the two wires that normally go to the cold advance sensor by the engine thermostat should be safe. Not running power to anything any other way.
As mentioned, that sensor is broken so I never get to see if it’s different cold as it is. I could always put a manual switch for it, to see if it really makes a difference.
Yes, my throttle is fully opening. I put my tool bag on the pedal and the lever was as it’s absolute max at the IP.
I first tried making a jumper cable made out of hacked up ring terminals for the cold advance connector but I’m unsure if it made good contact.
It felt the same, but I was bucking a headwind plus hills, though honestly not huge ones.
Once I got to the next town, I bought a $5 toggle switch (which I’ll have a use for later in the trailer) that has the exact blade terminals and spacing as the actual “switch” on the engine. At idle, I honestly can’t hear a difference with the switch on or off.
I’m staying put where I’m parked until this evening, but then just city driving. I’ll probably know by this time tomorrow if it really helped, after I try to get up to highway speed again.
I suppose it’s possible that cold timing advance is dead. Shouldn’t there be some noticeable sound difference?
I first tried making a jumper cable made out of hacked up ring terminals for the cold advance connector but I’m unsure if it made good contact.
It felt the same, but I was bucking a headwind plus hills, though honestly not huge ones.
Once I got to the next town, I bought a $5 toggle switch (which I’ll have a use for later in the trailer) that has the exact blade terminals and spacing as the actual “switch” on the engine. At idle, I honestly can’t hear a difference with the switch on or off.
I’m staying put where I’m parked until this evening, but then just city driving. I’ll probably know by this time tomorrow if it really helped, after I try to get up to highway speed again.
I suppose it’s possible that cold timing advance is dead. Shouldn’t there be some noticeable sound difference?
I started nosing around and found a broken plastic terminal for what I think is the cold advance. I chopped it off and stripped back wire, finding tons of corrosion. I spliced in a piece of wire with an insulated blade terminal. I still don’t hear any difference at idle, but maybe driving it will.
Check out the attached pics. They aren’t in order I don’t think but oh well.
Oh and what’s that lever on the IP? Just curious.
Check out the attached pics. They aren’t in order I don’t think but oh well.
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Oh and what’s that lever on the IP? Just curious.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Advance piston.
Jump power straight to the timing advance from the battery.
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Jump power straight to the timing advance from the battery.
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Oh so it should be 12v+ on the wire to the cold timing advance terminal? I’ll check it for voltage later on. If nothing is there, I have a 12v source under the hood coming off of a separate relay that is on only with the key turned, I can try feeding from that.
It’s 25-30mph gusts or more here today by the way. The trailer is rocking all over the place when parked in an open parking lot. It could be why I couldn’t feel the difference this morning.
I just explained not to do this, if the solenoid is energized all the time it will heat up and can be a fire hazard when the engine is left of for a period of time. Make sure you use a 12v source that is only energized when the key is on. You can use the glowplug controller ignition source or tap into the other wire on the ip
Right. That’s why I was going to try with a switched power source. However, there’s no reason to probably. I’m getting power on the factory wire with the key turned.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Right. That's why you disconnect it after testing.
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FordGuy100
Registered User
So you are getting 12v to it and still notice no change in engine tone? IIRC energizing the advance should engage high idle (or maybe its the other way), but it should have a louder more clackity idle (more like a 7.3 powerstroke) with it advanced.
Maybe someone on here as a good used IP for cheap?
Maybe someone on here as a good used IP for cheap?
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