The_Josh_Bear
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Firstly 15 seconds is a good sign. The cycling it does after the WTS light goes out is called "after glow". It just helps get a tiny bit more burn outta the fuel in those cold early moments, and therefore helps the engine keep going as it should.One of those existing fusible links broke again. I don't think it melted, just brittle. At any rate I cut them out and attempted to solder them in. Turns out the soldering gun that hasn't been used in 20 years but has followed me around the country doesn't work. It is good at burning me, bad at melting solder... so crimped again. We'll see how it goes with these new links... I used 14 gauge.
Anyone know what exactly the glow plug relay is supposed to do after the WTS light goes out? Before I changed my plugs, once the light went out (~15 seconds normally), the relay would cycle on and off for awhile. Now, the WTS goes out after 15 seconds, the glow plugs appear to stay on for about another 30 seconds (looking at the battery gauge on the dash), then it clicks once and goes off. How's that sound? Working as it should?
So you were saying you waited until the afterglow cycle was over, too? If so, it won't start like that.
The fact that it's not afterglowing any more is odd. I ditched my controller long ago so I'm not super familiar with them, someone else will have to tell you what that means. Clearly the controller is working to some extent if you have a 15 second glow time.
5w-40 will let the engine turn faster in these cold temps, I hear lots of good things about it. We need every RPM we can get when cranking over. If there is a chance you can take a short video of your cranking speed we could chime in there, too. It should be turning over faster than you can count, even in your head.
You *could* have perfectly fine GP's and not enough cranking speed in the lower temp range. Hopefully the oil fixes that, potentially think about a DB electrical starter upgrade. But for now keep up the good work!
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