Finally got around to testing, and then replacing the glow plugs.. 4 stuck.

MJGenay

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Alright, well I just let it sit for about 3.5 hrs. I went over everything forwards of the FSV and I can't find any evidence of fuel leakage. I turned it on, it started right up, and ran fine for about 30 seconds, good throttle response. Then I started getting that damn rattle again. Turned it off. I'm going to get my better half to crank it over in the morning while I release the Schrader valve to see if I get any air out.

Anyone got a pointer for anything I might be missing? At this point I'm assuming I have air getting in but fuel is not getting out. Frustration is building... to put it mildly.

I'm wondering since I had decent throttle response and no rattle for about 30 seconds if that might mean the air is in the filter housing? Figure there should be about 30 seconds of running in the injector lines and in the IP which is about what I got.
 

PossumTruck

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This is somewhat facetious/somewhat serious: Have you thought about a facet duralift?

Many fuel issues go away (get covered up) when you have an e-pump. There are other benefits and negatives to e-pump crowd, but my several-year experience has been positive.
 

IDIBRONCO

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In order to help narrow this down, I think that it's time to put a longer piece of fuel line on the suction side of your lift pump and then putting the other end into a 5 gallon can of diesel. If it still happens, the problem should be from the lift pump forward. If it doesn't happen, then the problem is from the lift pump back to the tank.
 

MJGenay

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In order to help narrow this down, I think that it's time to put a longer piece of fuel line on the suction side of your lift pump and then putting the other end into a 5 gallon can of diesel. If it still happens, the problem should be from the lift pump forward. If it doesn't happen, then the problem is from the lift pump back to the tank.
Will do so today. I'm going to first have Lindsy crank over the engine while I release the Schrader valve to see if I get any air out. I'll report back on that. Then I'm going to take it to town, buy a new fuel filter incase I'm maybe getting air intrusion around the rubber o ring on the filter, install that, get the truck running again and run the air out. I'm then going to try the test with the 5 gallon can of diesel. Will report back on that too.
This is somewhat facetious/somewhat serious: Have you thought about a facet duralift?

Many fuel issues go away (get covered up) when you have an e-pump. There are other benefits and negatives to e-pump crowd, but my several-year experience has been positive.
Yeah it is something I have been thinking about, but it is like the manual glow plug switch... I'd rather get the stock system to work before I go that route.
 

MJGenay

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Alright so unfortunately it caught almost immediately while Lindsy was cranking (no pedal) and I was depressing the Schrader valve... even though it was about 30 degrees out. It shot fuel initially and then as soon as it caught it seemed to reduce the fuel flow, not sure if that is normal or not or if I just wasn't pressing the Schrader enough. I'm going to go pick up some clear fuel line, 5 gallons of diesel, a new filter, and probably some Seafoam to fill the filter with.
 

hacked89

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On a positive note you have an engine with good compression, fuel system(outside of ironing this out) and glow plug system to almost immediately start in 30 degrees after sitting all night
 

MJGenay

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On a positive note you have an engine with good compression, fuel system(outside of ironing this out) and glow plug system to almost immediately start in 30 degrees after sitting all night
Yeah that is what I was thinking, I was really pleasantly surprised.

No one has any issues with me filling the fuel filter with Seafoam, right? I kinda think of that stuff as being snake oil but thought I could give it a try.
 
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Old Goat

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I have never used Sea Foam, I fill my Filter with ATF. What ever you fill the filter with, make sure it is coming out of a clean container.
That`s why I use ATF, I guess you can use any of the other fuel additives also.

Make sure the old Gasket comes off with the old filter, and put some of the ATF, OIL or what ever on the rubber Gasket so it is lubricated as it tightens .

There was a TSB from Ford several years ago about eliminating the rubber hose from the filter to the return line cap. The one where you have the Adapter.
I eliminated mine probably 5 years ago w/o and issues.

What I have discovered, if you have only one return cap leaking, and you start messing with it, get it back together, you will have disturbed the next one and it will leak.

Best to remove all 4 on that side, replace the Rubber Rings, grease the Rings and inside the Caps, and replace the side as an assembly.


Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

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I kinda think of that stuff as being snake oil but thought I could give it a try.
It's not snake oil. I've only used it with gas engines, but it does work wonders. I see no reason that it won't work with a diesel.
 

hacked89

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It's not snake oil. I've only used it with gas engines, but it does work wonders. I see no reason that it won't work with a diesel.
One of the reasons for additives with the db2 though is lubrication because of the tolerances. Does seafoam have the lubrication? I have used seafoam in gas much like you.
 
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hacked89

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I have never used Sea Foam, I fill my Filter with ATF. What ever you fill the filter with, make sure it is coming out of a clean container.
That`s why I use ATF, I guess you can use any of the other fuel additives also.

Make sure the old Gasket comes off with the old filter, and put some of the ATF, OIL or what ever on the rubber Gasket so it is lubricated as it tightens .

There was a TSB from Ford several years ago about eliminating the rubber hose from the filter to the return line cap. The one where you have the Adapter.
I eliminated mine probably 5 years ago w/o and issues.

What I have discovered, if you have only one return cap leaking, and you start messing with it, get it back together, you will have disturbed the next one and it will leak.

Best to remove all 4 on that side, replace the Rubber Rings, grease the Rings and inside the Caps, and replace the side as an assembly.


Goat
Your return cap advice, reminds me when I was 16 years old building my first demo derby car a 1982 thunderbird. Went to bleed the brakes, blew a brake line. Old timer said you should replace all the brake lines. I said nah. Replaced the first one, went to bleed again, blew the next one. Went to bleed again...you can guess the end of the story.
 

Old Goat

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I think the industry standard on the rubber brake Hoses in like 7 years, or something like that.
They may look good on the out side, but the rubber gets old.
I have read that on the inside a piece or rubber can come loose and create a sort of flap, and cause pressure on the line where say a wheel cylinder won`t totally release.

yet there are Brake Hoses 20 yrs old on stuff driving by us on the roads.
Which reminds me, I better look at my Belts, put them on 8 years ago when I bought this thing.
They always look good till you take them off and bend them the other way, and see the deep cracks.
Iam using Gates Green Stripe (think that`s the name) but even they get old and tired.
When you buy new one`s at the auto supply, ever wonder how old they are?

When we were 16 and broke trying to keep some old heap on the road, if it works, why replace it?
Now Iam way way way older than 16, everything is paid for, and Iam still keeping some old heap on the road.
Now I always try to buy the best top quality parts I can, being cheap will come around and bite ya eventually.


Goat
 
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