fight corrosion and doorlocks

[Bart F-350]

While getting my E4OD trans out, I remarked some corrosion on the pins from the computerbox in the driverside footwell.
Now the trans and computerbox is at the transshop, I wonder how I best can deal with it to get the oxidation off of those fragile pins?

I also think that this has to do with malfunctioning from the trans?

I must say, I own this truck already some time, but have hardly driven it, due to registration issues.
And I find that the doors shut really clumsy, I have to shut them strong if not they don't stay shut, and I have the feeling these doors are really flimsy, you hear that with the sound when shutting, and I had the west-coast mirrors on it, and every time when I drove on the autoroute, they pulled the upper part of the doors open,so that wind and rain entered.
To me that is unacceptable.
what experiences you have with these doors?
please let me know?

 

[Big Bart]

Some thoughts -

1) Computer pins, try some MAS electronic cleaner. Should not hurt the pins, plastic, or connectors.

2) Likely if your connectors were corroded and not passing power correctly, that could be an issue with shifting and overdrive. Keep in mind I have read (My truck has the C6.) that you always want to confirm that all three brake lights work.(Two if you vehicle does not have a third brake light.) Putting in LED bulbs is likely to cause issues too.

3). My doors are challenging too. You have to pull and hold to give the locks time to latch or the only partially latch. I wonder if the door seals are getting old and hard or if the lock mechanism is to blame. However my doors do not leak or push open at the top. Perhaps they are not aligned correctly.

 

[Bart F-350]

If only I could get another pair of healty, good doors!, But since I live in France, those will be unobtainium I guess!?

apart from that product, would small (maybe copper?) brushes do something?
and if so, where could I find such brushes? (I'm terrible on a computer actually)

 

[Big Bart]

Careful with a brush if the tranny connectors are flat based male terminals, the brush could hook and bend your female terminals. The big goal is not to spread apart the female connectors so they make good contact.

They make micro files and would suggest using those over a brush. You will have more control and clean the connectors better.

Something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Precision-Needle-File-Set/dp/B006N3EPKE/ref=asc_df_B006N3EPKE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9597125169995410342&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031537&hvtargid=pla-762596478912&psc=1

If you want a brush here is what I tend to use. Use the gold ones, they are softer.

https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Stainless-Masonry-bristle-Cleaning/dp/B076CWN3JY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2UE14UGSHD6Y2&keywords=small+wire+brush&qid=1644959639&sprefix=Small+wire+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-5

 

[Jackieboy]

The door latch is adjustable. It is an eccentric piece. It is on the door jam.

 

[Bart F-350]

yes I know, if I adjust that so the rubbers are in their sweet spot, the door is coming out too far, and if I adjust it so the rubbers close off the door in the correct way, I can't get it shut anymore due to too much tension on the doorlock/catch???
And we don't have another truck from that age and model around so I could eventually have a comparison.

 

[Jackieboy]

Have you checked the wear on the door pins in the hinges? They sell new kits for these.

 

[Selahdoor]

Please give us a pic of the door latch post on the door frame.

 

[Bart F-350]

Ok, I'll do that tomorrow, its dark outside now.
might be a good Idea.Thanks

 

[themechanicalford]

Check the plastic bushings on the door pins, my guess is they are toast. Get yourself a 1/2 piece of PEX and cut to the length of the pin. You’ll have to tap the pex over the pin with a hammer and piece of wood because it fits tight. After that your doors should shut perfectly. The door pin comes on and off easily with a t50 bit.

 

[themechanicalford]

Have you checked the wear on the door pins in the hinges? They sell new kits for these.

I just responded to him as well but 1/2” PEX water line works perfectly as a new bushing. Saw it from someone on here and tried it myself on my 93’.

 

[Bart F-350]

Well, they are as good as new, which is logic, because my truck only has about 10.169 miles.

But I'm sure they are ok, can't feel any play, nothing.

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[Selahdoor]

Well, they are as good as new, which is logic, because my truck only has about 10.169 miles.

But I'm sure they are ok, can't feel any play, nothing

You must be registered for see images attach

It looks to me like that pin is bare metal.

If that is the case, find a piece of 1/2" pex tubing. Cut it to the right length, and put it on that pin.

You can unscrew that pin, and slip it through the piece of pex tubing, then screw it back in.

You will be amazed at the difference it will make.

A piece of advice... Use a sharpie or something and mark the location of that pin and of it's backing plate, before you get started.

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

$6 for pin and bushings off Rockauto for both doors. Realign them and your good to go.

 

[Bart F-350]

you mean the pex on the pin as in the first Photo?
would that be all?

I need to slam the doors hard in order to stay shut, for all I know that might be caused by the pression all the door rubber puts on the door?

I have difficulty in seeing where a piece of pex would be the solution!?

As far as I know, such a door should close smooth, without the (reasonable) effort I now have to use?

I'll see if I encounter such material (if they know that over here?)
Pex, is that the waterline? does it also has a layer of aluminium in it?