Excessively long warm up?vibrations!!?

kendawg69a

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Ran tank kinda low when this all happened. Was at 1/4 tank but its halfway now. Think ill need to fill tank completely or just crack open all of the injectors 1 at a time?
Cracking open these injectors without engine running am i wasting my time?
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kendawg69a

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Purging 1 injector at a time but does someone have to be on the key? Or can i just fill up the tank

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IDIBRONCO

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You can only purge air from the injector lines by cranking the engine over, either by you or by someone else. It doesn't matter. I'd crack all 8 lines at once. One at a time will take 8 times as much cranking, putting 8 times as much strain on your starter and batteries. Since you said that you have about 129,000 miles on the original injector pump, it may be time to replace it with a good quality one. Purging the air will only help you until you shut your truck off and the fuel drains back out of your fuel lines. They are saying that you have air intrusion into the fuel system somewhere. If you don't find and fix that, you'll always be getting air into your fuel system. Having 1/2 tank of fuel is fine. The shower head problem happens at about 1/4 tank. This is when the end of your fuel pickup in the tank (known as a "shower head" because of it's shape) falls off onto the bottom of the tank. This means that you can't draw as much fuel out of your tank since the pickup is now shorter. You can only get to about 1/4 tank.
 

kendawg69a

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Have fuel at schrader valve. Thanks for replys.i Was worried if i open all 8 or even just 1 ,that air would get right back in if the motor wasn't running. 8 squirting fuel injectors is not going to be a good time if this thing decides to stay running. I should have been able to just purge the injection line that got loose correct? Unless the lines are air locked all the way back to the tank? I did not have this much trouble when i did my injectors so thinking i need a full tank?


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riotwarrior

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Lossening all 8 truck would likely NOT start.

Once you are seeing fuel from 5 or so start cranking the lines closed and attempt to fire truck.

When turning engine over to purge air with lines lossened move throttle to wide open position to effectivley move the most fuel through the lines.

Good luck
 

icanfixall

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You can crack open all 8 lines and the engine will not start. You MUST be able to make at least 2200 lbs of fuel pressure in the lines from the injection pump to each injector for the injectors be able to pop open. I find it easier to open only the easy to reach injector hard lines. Once those show fuel squirting out tighten them and it will run. It may run ruff till all the air is purged from the system but in no way can any lines be air locked. My guess is the rubber line from the lift pump to the frame rail is rotten. Best to replace that short line. Also you may have a bad lift pump. We do see plenty on new lift pump failures. Usually with 125,000 or more miles on the injection pump its felt that they are well worn out and need replacing. Please do not just buy the cheapest ebay injection pump. Most if not al of them are cheap painted rebuilds. I mean they are painted to look rebuilt but they are not. You mentioned the tanks was near 1/4 level and all this problem started. That tells us your in tank suction head has broken off and not the last 1/4 tank of fuel can't be sucked out cause the suction line is not way up off the bottom of the tank. But its an easy fix with a piece of rubber hose and a clamp.
 

kendawg69a

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Still had fuel at injectors while at 1/4 tank but i cant afford to take chances with this cold weather making it ******* batterys so i put 10gal in so i could eliminate that being questionable. New rubber to lift pump. Would love to have original pump built and put back on truck cause its mine and i love it lol.-only option i see unless i shelf it for a moose.

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kendawg69a

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Glow plugs made startup so much nicer but it still is stalling out. Got rid of white smoke for most part. Isnt a rough start like most air purges. Has weak sputter and wants to start every 10 minutes or so.

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kendawg69a

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While im waiting to figure this out i also need a heater core? No ac or heat in cab is this deffinite just a heater core or blower motor problem? How much coolant loss am i expecting for replacement? Hoses are both just warm when it was running is it possible a flush could fix or recommend replacing?

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ironworker40

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Was describing the shudder from previous experience with lift pump or cdr whatever it was. oil was changed soon after. Have about 10k on new lift pump. but noticed oil level fluctuating low first now it is past the do not add mark. Have always put 13 quarts 15 40w. Some how it has fuel in oil have not done any work on ip at all. Factory ordered 1 owner was my dads. 129k miles...no heat and no fuel at schrader valve. Just tested 4 bad glow plugs.put 4 new berus in with the remaining dieselrx will be changed after snow stops.

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Oil capacity is 10 quarts with filter unless using powestroke filter then its 11. If level goes up fuel or coolant must be getting in.
 

OLDBULL8

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How Old are you? You don't seem to understand any instruction on what to do. Just keep asking more questions that are not relative to the engine keeping running.

Truck is starting fine. Just stalls right out. Leave a few injector lines open will keep it running?
NO. YOU DO NOT LEAVE ANY LINE OPEN ONCE FUEL IS COMING OUT OF IT. TIGHTEN IT UP.

Didnt know there was a plug in valley any ideas on what to do with it?

FORGET ABOUT THAT PLUG. THERE IS NOTHING YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT. IT'S NOT RELATIVE TO A STARTING PROBLEM.

DON'T KEEP ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE HEATER. WAIT UNTIL YOU GET THE TRUCK RUNNING. THEN WE WILL ADDRESS THAT PROBLEM.
 

kendawg69a

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Oil capacity is 10 quarts with filter unless using powestroke filter then its 11. If level goes up fuel or coolant must be getting in.
With turbo and powerstroke filter i use 12.5-13 qrts in 7.3 or its too noisy;\

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kendawg69a

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Sorry for off topic just worried about heat core now since iv had time to think.

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Hydro-idi

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With turbo and powerstroke filter i use 12.5-13 qrts in 7.3 or its too noisy;\

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Makes absolutely no sense. So your saying your engine makes noise if you don't overfill engine with oil? This thread doesn't make any sense lol. And how the hell can bolting on a CDR stop your engine from shaking?
Have you checked your windshield wiper fluid recently? That could be causing your engine to shake and sputter lol.
 

kendawg69a

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Hah well if its low on oil it sounds like ****. 10 qrts is not my cup of tea...any ways found the rotted line going to cylinder 8 thank u all for the help and other awesomeness now onto a 29 dollar heater core that is leaking rust through my carpet? W/ ac... can i just change core or do i need thermostat. Sorry for drama could see fuel leak due to having opened the injector now iv confirmed the air intrusion thank u all for your patience and help

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