EGT's out of control

dyoung14

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you done a good job on that system, i cant wait to do mine, how much did it cost you?
 

EMD_DRIVER

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you done a good job on that system, i cant wait to do mine, how much did it cost you?


I guess it was around $130 or so... I will have to invest in some better relays though, since the Autozone one crapped out on me today...

I got some Ford factory relays at the junkyard a while back and have them as spares...
 

dyoung14

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I guess it was around $130 or so... I will have to invest in some better relays though, since the Autozone one crapped out on me today...

I got some Ford factory relays at the junkyard a while back and have them as spares...

130 sounds great nice cheap and effective;Sweet
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Not a bad idea huh gary?


With 2,000 miles on the system, I have an update...

I'm guessing the turbo "Pulses" with the exhaust and that is causing me to fry relays. I have the hobbs pressure switch set to 7PSI. When the turbo gets near 7, the indicator light will start to flicker. Once I get to 7+, it will stay on. I'm guessing that the flickering is causing the relays to self destruct.

Other than that, the system works as advertised! I have the 11.6GPH nozzle on it and my temps stay down 200-300* I can still reach 1,200* but it takes a lot longer to get there. I'm also making more boost, when the system is working.

Once I figure out how to solve my relay problem, I plan on putting a larger nozzle on the system. I'm also installing a larger tank, in the bed of the truck. I can go through a gallon of water pretty quick, when I'm towing the 5er.
 

zpd307

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i just ordered my 6.0 tranny cooler and intercooler conversion boots. i would like to get those done here in the next week or two.... if you are still interested in my 7.3 intercooler, you might want to start shopping for an early 99 intake spider. im not sure if the early 99 intercooler pipes will work for your obs. i have seen some pipes on ebay that stated they were for intercooling obs strokes.... not sure which cooler they are for. the intercooler will definately help keeping your egts down, all the time, without the worries of having to refill the bottle....
 

93turbo_animal

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With 2,000 miles on the system, I have an update...

I'm guessing the turbo "Pulses" with the exhaust and that is causing me to fry relays. I have the hobbs pressure switch set to 7PSI. When the turbo gets near 7, the indicator light will start to flicker. Once I get to 7+, it will stay on. I'm guessing that the flickering is causing the relays to self destruct.

Other than that, the system works as advertised! I have the 11.6GPH nozzle on it and my temps stay down 200-300* I can still reach 1,200* but it takes a lot longer to get there. I'm also making more boost, when the system is working.

Once I figure out how to solve my relay problem, I plan on putting a larger nozzle on the system. I'm also installing a larger tank, in the bed of the truck. I can go through a gallon of water pretty quick, when I'm towing the 5er.


Disclaimer: I have no idea if these parts are available or feasible to use. I'm thinking a loop with a regulator set for 8 psi then your hobbs switch T'd in then out thru a one way valve past the regulator when the boost drops
 

dyoung14

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Could you tell me what this pump is and were i can get the pump you used? If i ever get any money again i plan on doing this to my IDI, oh and were do i get the nozzels
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Disclaimer: I have no idea if these parts are available or feasible to use. I'm thinking a loop with a regulator set for 8 psi then your hobbs switch T'd in then out thru a one way valve past the regulator when the boost drops


I'm not quite following what you mean... Sounds interesting though...
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Could you tell me what this pump is and were i can get the pump you used? If i ever get any money again i plan on doing this to my IDI, oh and were do i get the nozzels

The pump came from HERE

Nozzles from HERE

Hobbs switch from NAPA This switch IS adjustable! Pop off the rubber cap on one end and adjust away!

Solenoid from HERE

You will also need some brass fittings...

Brass-Tite! #43033, used for nozzle mount assembly

Brass-Tite! #43231, used for nozzle mount assembly

6#
Brass-Tite! #43075, used for pump, water tank, water solenoid and nozzle mount assembly.

3/8" fuel injection hose clamps..

3/8" fuel injection hose

HERE is where I got my system plan... You will have to use the largest nozzle available. I used a M15 and plan on going larger!
 

trackspeeder

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With 2,000 miles on the system, I have an update...

I'm guessing the turbo "Pulses" with the exhaust and that is causing me to fry relays. I have the hobbs pressure switch set to 7PSI. When the turbo gets near 7, the indicator light will start to flicker. Once I get to 7+, it will stay on. I'm guessing that the flickering is causing the relays to self destruct.

Other than that, the system works as advertised! I have the 11.6GPH nozzle on it and my temps stay down 200-300* I can still reach 1,200* but it takes a lot longer to get there. I'm also making more boost, when the system is working.

Once I figure out how to solve my relay problem, I plan on putting a larger nozzle on the system. I'm also installing a larger tank, in the bed of the truck. I can go through a gallon of water pretty quick, when I'm towing the 5er.


The flicker will kill the relay. They don't like that. It needs to be on or off.
 

trackspeeder

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Ok..... So how do I remove the flicker? These PSD's must have a pulsed output..

Good question. :dunno:dunno All I know is a relay needs to be on or off. If a relay doesn't ave a steady power source it will die.

Learned that from a signal guy. The guy was flipping out as the track machinery was going through is newly rebuilt relay box.:eek::rotflmao
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Good question. :dunno:dunno All I know is a relay needs to be on or off. If a relay doesn't ave a steady power source it will die.

Learned that from a signal guy. The guy was flipping out as the track machinery was going through is newly rebuilt relay box.:eek::rotflmao


He must have been related to our signal guy!

Anyway.... How do I either smooth out the flow of electricity, or smooth out the boost pressure?????
 
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