e4od to zf5 wiring...
- Thread starter jonleroy2506
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It's fairly easy. I just have a push button that sends power straight to the little terminal on the solenoid when I push it. This isn't too uncommon to find in our trucks. They have a pot metal piece in the steering column that is used to activate the actual ignition switch on the lower part of the steering column. These like to break , especially when it's cold. I replaced that in my truck, but I don't want to take the chance. I just turn the key switch to the "run" position, cycle the glow plugs, and then use the start button. My key switch is strictly a on and off switch now.
FYI, it doesn't take a very heavy gauge wire in order to activate the starter solenoid when using the small terminal. The factory wire isn't very heavy. You'd need a pretty heavy wire in order to jump across the solenoid, but not for the small terminal.
Your problem is very simple. The automatic was actuated by a linkage from the column, down to the side of the transmission. Down on the side of the transmission is a complex switch with lots of wires. The older trucks only had 4 wires, two for the neutral safety and two for the reverse lights. Your E4OD is more complex, and it has a switch to tell the computer what gear you have selected. But it still has those two neutral safety wires.
Originally the auto truck would not crank over unless it's was in park or neutral. That has been taken out, so now that circuit is broken. You need to find this circuit and jump it.
I just looked at the 1991 diagrams, they still used a red with lightblue stripe wire for this circuit. Under the booster, one of the plugs that went to the old auto transmission should have two red/lightblue stripe wires. Jump these two wires and it should crank over.
Originally the auto truck would not crank over unless it's was in park or neutral. That has been taken out, so now that circuit is broken. You need to find this circuit and jump it.
I just looked at the 1991 diagrams, they still used a red with lightblue stripe wire for this circuit. Under the booster, one of the plugs that went to the old auto transmission should have two red/lightblue stripe wires. Jump these two wires and it should crank over.
jonleroy2506
Registered User
Thanks ks everyone for the help. I found the wires to jump and she started cranking. Still have to button a few things up but she's almost roadworthy
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jonleroy2506
Registered User
I finally got it started and running and tried to take it for a drive and the doesn't seem to want to engage. I can shift into any gear I want including reverse but the clutch slips really bad. I know the clutch is fine and I'm pretty sure everything is installed correctly. It seems to be a hydraulic issue. I can put it in gear and let off the clutch and nothing really happens until I pull the clutch pedal towards me real hard, then it seems to engage properly, enough to kill the engine if I hold the brake. I just put a new master a d slave cylinder on it, and I'm curious what the chances are that I got a bad slave cylinder out of the box? Or would resistance in the pedal itself due to bad bushings cause the slave not to allow the throw out bearing to completely disengage the pressure plate?
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gnathv
Full Access Member
If your bushing are bad replace them
Your problem is not common. Most people have a hydraulic problem when the hydraulics are being used. As in when you press the pedal. Very uncommon for the clutch to not engage and drive the truck.
Sounds to me like you have a parts problem. Did you mix an match any parts? Is everything for a zf setup? Nothing was used that came off a 4 speed setup? They are different, the bellhousings are different depths.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
On my Blue Truck, I'm still using the same slave and master cylinders that were used with the four speed. My ZF5 seems to work just fine.
jonleroy2506
Registered User
All 5 speed parts. New master and slave, both for a 5 speed. I believe the issue lies somewhere between the clutch pedal and the throw out bearing. The entire clutch system worked flawlessly in the donor truck. This leads me to believe it has to do with fault hydraulics, as those are the only new parts. Tomorrow I will install the old slave cylinder which I know worked, and see if that fixes the issue. I will also try to lubricate all moving parts in the clutch pedal assy. to see if that solves anything
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jonleroy2506
Registered User
What are the chances the throwout bearing or clutch fork aren't aligned correctly and causing resistance to the pressure plate?
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jonleroy2506
Registered User
Also, can anyone tell me when it is appropriate to start a new thread, or when I should continue asking questions on the same one? I think I have two or three threads going right now pertaining to this transmission swap, but all covering slightly different aspects of the swap. Should I have just used one thread completely covering every aspect of the swap, or is it okay to start a new thread when the issue at hand changes? Thanks for the help, and I apologize if I have too many threads going for this transmission swap. I am not super clear on proper forum etiquette.
Also, would it just be redundant to create a thread giving my persepective/ process on the entire swap, or would a detailed start to finish of my process be welcomed? I know I would have liked a step-by-step to complete this project, and I would be glad to spend the time doing a write up if it will help others in the future with a similar transmission swap
Also, would it just be redundant to create a thread giving my persepective/ process on the entire swap, or would a detailed start to finish of my process be welcomed? I know I would have liked a step-by-step to complete this project, and I would be glad to spend the time doing a write up if it will help others in the future with a similar transmission swap
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