E4OD Mod O/Y

[Diesile]

Is there a voltage to check for on the O/Y wire to make sure the correct
wire has been tapped?

 

[icanfixall]

Well hopeing you can post a little more information but I will give my swag as to what you are posting about.... If your talking about the middle wire on the tps switch then there is a voltage that you need to know about.... The voltage needs to be from .96 to 1.2 volts using a digital voltmeter. The higher the voltage the harder the shifts... This needs to be done on a warmed up motor with the key turned on but the motor not running. The voltage will change as you open the throttle to wide open setting. That should be around 4 volts. Don't allow that voltage to reach 5 volts or the trand cpu will drop the signal on high voltage and the tran will be in limp home mode... You have neutral, reverse and second gear only... The shifts are a neck breaker too. This will damage the trans and drive line too but not right away... It will "get you home"......

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Gary, I'm pretty sure he's talking about the SS1 wire in the transmission harness, he's wiring his safety relay for the manual lockup mods.

Honestly, the only thing I can come up with is checking for resistance between the wire and a good ground, the PCM grounds that wire in P,R, N, 1, and 2, so there should be very little ohms on the meter. If you are like me and splice wires by cutting one and then twist/crimp ends together with the new wire, then with the O/Y wire cut you should have 12V on the transmission side and like zero volts on the PCM side, also zero resistance between the PCM side and good ground. If you're just probing the wire without cutting it, then I don't know what voltage to expect, I am not smart enough for this - in my head I can "see" how current flows through a circuit, and I can draw diagrams to reflect that, but I don't know how to determine what the voltage will be at a given point of a circuit.

 

[Diesile]

Great info from both of you. LCAM was right about the original question. I went down the
road with a voltmeter in the (I hope) ss1 line. It read .5v in P N R D until it shifted into
3 and 4 where it was 14v. It also didn't drop voltage until about 10mph throttle off brake
on (lightly) stop. I think this corresponds to LCAM's "on on-off off" sequence described
on Page 2 of "TC lockup mods". Does this sound right?

Gary you described that tps situation very clearly and I will take a look at that tomorrow.
I am brand new to owning an E4OD having had standards in my bought new '86. The
E4OD is in a '94 that is relieving the '86 from plowing duty, hopefully I can keep the
E4 alive.

 

[rjjp]

Get a big cooler.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Great info from both of you. LCAM was right about the original question. I went down the
road with a voltmeter in the (I hope) ss1 line. It read .5v in P N R D until it shifted into
3 and 4 where it was 14v. It also didn't drop voltage until about 10mph throttle off brake
on (lightly) stop. I think this corresponds to LCAM's "on on-off off" sequence described
on Page 2 of "TC lockup mods". Does this sound right?

Yup, sounds about right. Where did you tap into it, on the frame rail? There really is no other wire you can mistake the orange/yellow SS1 with, as the only other orange wire has a black tracer on it. There is a white wire with a yellow tracer, this is EPC, but with that you'll have all sorts of funky voltage readings all the time. Besides, the orange color is really quite orange, no way you mistake it with the white EPC wire. So I'm 99% positive you got the correct wire there

As for the trans lasting longer, do like RJJP suggested and put a BIG cooler on that thing. Also, do not do the auto/lock mod, use either off/lock or auto/off/lock - basically you want to be able to keep the converter from locking while plowing, cause I dunno if it's true but supposedly some of those beasts will attempt lockup in 2nd gear and that would not be a good thing when you're pushing a big pile of snow.

 

[Diesile]

Yes on the frame, but on the engine side of the firewall. The auto/off/lock is the mod
I am working on. I've got a 8"x16" in front of the red., I need more?

Mine, unless I am into the go pedal, likes to lockup around 30. Of course that is right on top of the shift to 3rd making a big step and dragging the engine down. It is a little hard
to understand why autos don't always lockup accept when the need to slip is obvious,
stopped in gear, etc.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I know for a fact that mine will unlock the converter when I get heavy on the throttle, and keep it unlocked till I let off some. Really, about the only reason I have the mod in my truck is so I can use engine braking.

On the cooler question, I dunno, I have my A/C condenser as a trans cooler, but bigger is generally better in case of the E4OD.

 

[Diesile]

OK on the cooler, I'm looking around. One final item on the TC mod., I'm not electrical
enough to know what current capacity the resistor and diode need to be for this mod.
Anyone?

 

[trackspeeder]

Yes on the frame, but on the engine side of the firewall. The auto/off/lock is the mod
I am working on. I've got a 8"x16" in front of the red., I need more?

Mine, unless I am into the go pedal, likes to lockup around 30. Of course that is right on top of the shift to 3rd making a big step and dragging the engine down. It is a little hard
to understand why autos don't always lockup accept when the need to slip is obvious,
stopped in gear, etc.

There are a few times you don't want the converter locked. Manual 1st and 2nd gear. When stomping the go pedal to pass. Reverse and cold tranny temps.

Manual 1st and 2nd. Speeds are usually to slow Low pressure damage will result.

When passing with the converter locked. The engine will struggle. A stock single disk converter can go into melt down.

Reverse. Low pressure damage can result.

Cold tranny temps. This can cause a lube problem with the rear of the tranny. This is what kill many stock E4OD's with aluminum carriers.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

OK on the cooler, I'm looking around. One final item on the TC mod., I'm not electrical
enough to know what current capacity the resistor and diode need to be for this mod.
Anyone?

My resistor is just the regular 22k one from RadioShack, nothing special or high-power about it. For the diode I personally have the habit of using the RadioShack-special 6A rectifier diodes on anything that is not a relay trigger circuit but that's probably overkill in this situation, I'd imagine a 3-amp will work fine as well (my dummy signal feed is fused at 3 amps and nothing has blown yet, so it must be less than 3amps of draw through the resistor).

 

[Silver Burner]

OK so I got a question about these E4OD's. In the truck I just bought, the tranny will shift oh so nicely from 1-2 and then from 2-3 and then right after the 2-3 shift it will just hammer down like the TC is locking up and the RPM's will drop about 500. Then as you accelerate it'll hammer down one more time into 4th. In these 2 gears when you're above 40 or so, when you let off the gas the TC will disengage and RPM's will drop way down and when you step on the gas you can feel the lurch (not a big one) as the TC reengages. Below these speeds all is smooth. Is this a normal thing for an overhauled E4OD with PSD guts and a shift kit and TC with a billet cover?

 

[trackspeeder]

OK so I got a question about these E4OD's. In the truck I just bought, the tranny will shift oh so nicely from 1-2 and then from 2-3 and then right after the 2-3 shift it will just hammer down like the TC is locking up and the RPM's will drop about 500. Then as you accelerate it'll hammer down one more time into 4th. In these 2 gears when you're above 40 or so, when you let off the gas the TC will disengage and RPM's will drop way down and when you step on the gas you can feel the lurch (not a big one) as the TC reengages. Below these speeds all is smooth. Is this a normal thing for an overhauled E4OD with PSD guts and a shift kit and TC with a billet cover?

Pretty much normal for the E4OD. Some of this has to do with the funky Ford programming.