e 99 injector question

[dsrace]

well i have an e99 and cracked in inj cup with only 98k miles 98205 to be exact. bought the truck with 81k on it and it was all stock except an k&n air filter. i did do exhaust and intake along with the ww2 wheel and an frx from riff raff along with a dp tuner and only tow in 80hp because of egt's. i tow about an 11k fifth wheel toyhauler loaded. i have never seen my egt's climb over 1250* and even at that temp it's no more than a 1/2 mile or so pulling a hill at 24 to 26 psi boost. normally 900 to 1150 towing. now i just replaced all 8 inj's and #7 was the cracked one. as you can see in the vid there are 2 inj's that are cleaner than the other 6 and i am wondering if the other 6 look normal and the 2 cleaner ones are weaker or having issues or are the o rings leaking somewhat on the 6 and not on the 2 cleaner ones. one of the cleaner ones has had new o rings put on it. the prev owner took it to the dealership in lees summit missiouri and they only replaced what looks like the bottom o ring on #2 #4 inj's but could've done all on those inj's. i am replacing all the o rings but am just wondering if they look like those 6 were leaking? haven't had any hp issues or coolant temp issues or seen any oil in the filter and have not had any coolant in the oil, the cup cracked 4 hrs from home and shot raw diesel out of my over flow bottle. i have never pulled injectors out of a diesel before so that is why i am wondering.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mmC5YypQ2s

 

[94f450sd]

They look fine.i dont see any indication of combustion coming up past the copper washers.the reason you have 2 pink/red orings is because those two either had orings done on them or the injectors were replaced at some point.the orings were updated.the sets tha you have or will be getting will all have the pink rings.should be black,a blue and a pink ring in the kits.black up top,blue in the middle and pink on the bottom.

 

[IDIoit]

my question is how in the hell did diesel get into your coolant?
the holes in the heads for the injectors only have an oil galley, a diesel galley, and an orifice for the injector into the cylinder.

 

[dsrace]

ya i see the new colors of the o rings i bought to replace them i just wanted to be sure i didn't have an issue so thanks for the info.

 

[dsrace]

IDIoit
the clean part of the brass inj cups is what press's into the head and the darkened areas are where the coolant pass's across them to help cool the inj's. as i understood it the crack in the inj cup i found is the only way diesel can enter the coolant system. the lower section is where the fuel sits as far as i understood from the diagram. but looks like it should come in from above which also puzzled me.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYpozm4ItCk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck1hQEunB-o

 

[dsrace]

injecotr

this is a diagram i looked at

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[OLDBULL8]

I would suggest that you replace all the injector sleeves. Since your in it this far. Ya got the O'rings, so replace then all. I bought a set and the tools to pull and install about two year's ago, have yet to install them. PM me if you want to rent the tools, they are expensive , $250 a set. http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/tools.htm is where I got them from. Good people and instructive.

Our Sleeve Tools are 100% Made in the USA! Machined right here in Northeast Ohio!

The 7.3L Power Stroke injectors sit in a brass sleeve that separates the injector, and fuel, from the engine's coolant. These brass sleeves weaken and fatigue from age and tend to split and fail. A common symptom is finding fuel in your cooling system. This happens because the fuel system typically operates at around 60 psi of pressure, whereas the coolant system operates at a much lower pressure so the fuel gets pumped into the coolant when the sleeve fails and cracks.
We offer these custom made tools to simplify the changing of the sleeves. By design, the tools are shorter than an injector so you can change the sleeves with the heads on the motor and the motor still in the truck since there is no slide hammer required like with some other sleeve tools. Our tools are Black Oxide and Hard Coat Anodized for long life. You can replace your sleeves as preventative maintenance now, or replace them later once you detect signs of failure.

 

[94f450sd]

Oil between the top and middle rings,fuel between the middle and bottom rings.a cracked cup is one way fuel will get into the cooling system,cracked head is another.60-80 psi of fuel overrides the 15psi coolant through the crack

 

[IDIoit]

learn something new everyday!
thanks guys!

 

[dsrace]

Oil between the top and middle rings,fuel between the middle and bottom rings.a cracked cup is one way fuel will get into the cooling system,cracked head is another.60-80 psi of fuel overrides the 15psi coolant through the crack

i checked and i have 68psi on fuel. you are correct a cracked head will do it and i am soooooooooo glad i found a cracked cup instead i did buy the tools and cups and have all 8 cups in ( all 8 of the old ones are in the video and you can see where it was starting to leak past the o rings on a few or i can anyway lol ) and just finished putting the inj's back in with all new rings. while i have things apart i am going to pull the lines off the hpop and remove the check valve springs for a little more flow. i have another hpop ready to go in and the new one is the late sd 17* but after all this work i don't want to do any more for a bit lol

now our last 2 trips pulling the th'er ( toyhauler ) we noticed the floor area was hotter than normal and at first i thought it was coming through the floor. temp was set on coldest and a/c was not on but the heat was actually coming through the floor vents. it almost felt like the heater was on. well i noticed the heat insulator on the evap side cover to my a/c was torn open then i found the mouse nest under my turbo pedastal. those little ba$t@rds took all the padding out of the insulator and stuffed it under my turbo and i mean every last stich. wouldn't ya know it ford doesn't sell the insulator separate anymore, they wanted me to buy the whole box. so i used the old one for a pattern and got some of this http://www.speedwaymotors.com/DEi-0...Heat-Sound-Insulation-2-Ft-x-21-In,71050.html and cut it to fit. says it's good for 1700* or better so should work. i have all the stock parts to conv it to the late 99 to 03 but am not finding cfm data on the late sd turbo. just wondering if it's worth all the work cause if it's going to flow the same then there's no mpg savings and i have enough power for what i want the truck to do. does anyone know if there is a diff?

 

[79jasper]

Right now your turbo is most likely better than the newer one, but the newer one is easier to remove, which makes it worth it to me. But just swap the ww2 into it.
*I could be wrong on when everything changed over*

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[dsrace]

my turbo is innercooled but still the smaller housing like the obs on the comp side but a .84 exh housing. now the stock wheel that comes in mine is the early ww wheel for the late 99 to 03 7.3 and the ww2 is the same for both as well and fits the obs turbos as well. i already have the ww2 in mine but have the late 99 sd turbo just wasn't sure if it really put out more cfm to be worth the time.

 

[79jasper]

If you have everything laying around or can get it cheap, I would swap it. It's not a huge difference, but many notice lower EGT's.
And it makes for easier upgrades with drop in turbos down the road.

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