Dont fix it if it aint broke

[LindstheMarine]

Im just curious what type of stuff y'all do preemptively or consider routine maintenance. Outside of the obvious ones, like fluid / filter changes. Im trapped in this weird place where I want to freshen lots of things up, like injectors or fuel lines, but also apprehensive because new isnt always better and I could very well just create issues for myself. Ohh and it all costs $$$ lol.

 

[chillman88]

Well obvious can vary person to person.

Rear differential fluid often gets overlooked. Wheel bearings might be overdue for repacking.

I'd change the transmission fluid if it's a manual, I'd probably leave it alone if it's an automatic.

4x4? Transfer case fluid. And front axle too.

Wouldn't hurt to change the u-joints but might not be a necessity either.

All depends on how far you want to go and how much you trust the last owner

 

[Farmer Rock]

Well obvious can vary person to person.

Rear differential fluid often gets overlooked. Wheel bearings might be overdue for repacking.

I'd change the transmission fluid if it's a manual, I'd probably leave it alone if it's an automatic.

4x4? Transfer case fluid. And front axle too.

Wouldn't hurt to change the u-joints but might not be a necessity either.

All depends on how far you want to go and how much you trust the last owner

Heck, I really trusted the PO of my 87...............until I saw three u joints were welded in place.....yup.
That's why I am tearing it apart now.


Rock

 

[420Bullnose]

Well obvious can vary person to person.

Rear differential fluid often gets overlooked. Wheel bearings might be overdue for repacking.

I'd change the transmission fluid if it's a manual, I'd probably leave it alone if it's an automatic.

4x4? Transfer case fluid. And front axle too.

Wouldn't hurt to change the u-joints but might not be a necessity either.

All depends on how far you want to go and how much you trust the last owner

On top of what chillman88 said,

-Coolant
-Clean & Grease: Joints, Bushings, Bearings, Linkages, Electrical Connections & Anything with a Zerk fitting

420Bullnose

 

[Booyah45828]

It really depends on the vehicle. A few of mine get a lot of tlc and preventive maintenance because I like them, count on their dependability, or they're not quickly/cheaply replaceable.

My hunting truck on the other hand might not get an oil change the next go round, as it's very rusty, could use tires, and is crusher bound the next big issue. Don't get me wrong, I'll keep the oil level in check, but it burns a quart per fill up, and at this point it's no longer worth putting big dollars into.

A lot of stuff I follow the if it ain't broke, don't fix it motto. But brakes, tires, and maintenance typically isn't one of them though. Injectors/pumps? Unless it's apart, or running not quite right, I'd likely leave both well enough alone. And always replace those components from a reputable rebuilder or one of the vendors on here.

 

[hacked89]

Refer to your title. When I get a used vehicle I do everything that is considered maintanence at once. What's listed in the maintanence at whatever interval in the service manual. Then I give it a top to bottom inspection. Replace anything that is worn, broken or leaking. Anything else if it's not broken don't fix it. Unless you just want to take something apart for fun or learning.

 

[ttman4]

.............until I saw three u joints were welded in place.....yup.

Rock

I never thought of that. I got a welder, can weld, I'll just weld my u-joints & plan on them NEVER, NEVER wearing out!!
(Think I'll start welding on the wife's front wheel drive Toyota....if I can find her joints... )

 

[Mishka]

I'm pretty strict with my fluid/filter changes. I run only the best oils (hotshot secret 15w40 fleet oil, amsoil diff fluids and best transmission fluid I can find) and I change oil every 2500 miles, trans/diffs/transfer case every 30k miles.

As for replacing parts my mechanical pump died so I put in a duralift 40222 as I heard bad things about the new mechanicals. My IP pump recently died so I'm replacing that with a classic diesel design one and also buying their injectors, N/A air intake stuff, glow plugs harness, glow plugs and injectors..... figure I'm dropping 1k on a ip pump might as well freshen everything else up as truck has crazy high miles.

I did same when my middle ujoints in rear driveshaft broke, I went ahead and replaced the carrier (went timkin) and all the ujoints front and rear with best quality parts.
I also did same with my wheel bearings, one was bad I went ahead and bought all new timkin bearings for every wheel.

I only buy the best parts available which often means I don't get parts locally as a lot of stuff at part stores are not the best

 

[Big Bart]

Some common idi issues that can create bigger issues. Tackle as time and money allow. If you see new/newer parts you are likely ok.

1) Oil cooler o-rings. They get hard over time and crack. Then allow coolant and oil to mix.
2) Not having enough SCA in the coolant. You can buy test strips and test. More so 7.3’s have issues with cavitation, slowly eats a hole from the cooling side into the cylinder. Many of us use Fleet Charge in the pink bottles.
3) CDR valve and grommet. You should every third or so oil change clean it but since your truck is néw to you, suggest you just replace both. The issue is if they fail and you have much blowby they let oil get sucked in to your intake and burn. You can cause heat issues or if too much oil hydrolock the engine and bend a rod or blow a head gasket. So replacing is cheap insurance
4) Fuel filter. A clogged filter can cause lots of running issues.
5) Injector return lines, orings, and caps. Cause air leaks and allow diesel to drain out of the fuel lines causing hard and long starts. Most auto parts stores can order the kit for you. There are two different kits depending on what year vehicle you have.
6) Glow plug issues. Only buy Motorcraft as other brands can balloon and make removal a PITA. These trucks need glow plugs to start easy. Not sure on a 6.9 but the controller on a 7.3 will stop warming the glow plugs after 3-4 are dead. The wiring harnesses are decaying so you can put on new glow plug ends or I suggest replacing it with a new one from Classic Diesel Designs.
7) The diesel lift pumps also seem to be the source of a lot of issues. Many bypass and use electric many just replace the mechanical lift pump. For $50 you can buy some piece of mind for another +5 years. Just be careful as you will have a opening to the crankcase so don’t let the top or bottom bolts of the pump or anything else fall in.
8) Starter soleniod on the fender wall. These go bad frequently so again cheap insurance for $30. Unhook both batteries, take a pic or two, clean all the wire ends, replace soleniod, and reinstall wires. Keep in mind this is only sending power to the starter soleniod, so in essence you have two starter solenoids on these diesels.

On the maintenance side check/replace
1) Belts
2) Hoses
3) Check your brake pads and shoes. Adjust rear brakes.
4) Air cleaner, replace if needed.
5) Tranny fluid level.
6) Brake and clutch master cylinder level.
7) Test your vacuum pump for proper vacuum. (Runs your power brakes and other functions.)
8) Axle fluid as mentioned above likely has not been change recently or at all.

1-7 at the top are common recurring posts so addressing those will bring a lot of reliability to your truck.

 

[LindstheMarine]

Well obvious can vary person to person.

Rear differential fluid often gets overlooked. Wheel bearings might be overdue for repacking.

I'd change the transmission fluid if it's a manual, I'd probably leave it alone if it's an automatic.

4x4? Transfer case fluid. And front axle too.

Wouldn't hurt to change the u-joints but might not be a necessity either.

All depends on how far you want to go and how much you trust the last owner

Right on, Im going to try an finish all of this over the weekend before I have to start laying in the snow! I did check up on my u-joints and they all could use a swap out. Do you have any words of wisdom when it comes to picking the joints.

What is our reasoning for not messing with the fluid change on a manual?

 

[LindstheMarine]

Refer to your title. When I get a used vehicle I do everything that is considered maintanence at once. What's listed in the maintanence at whatever interval in the service manual. Then I give it a top to bottom inspection. Replace anything that is worn, broken or leaking. Anything else if it's not broken don't fix it. Unless you just want to take something apart for fun or learning.

Do you have a good link on service manuals?

 

[Black dawg]

Always good to replace all fluids on a new to me truck, even if they look ok, just to make sure the right stuff is in there. bearing pack is also a good idea.

As far as u joints, Spicer life series are the best. All basic parts store brand joints are junk.

 

[chillman88]

Do you have any words of wisdom when it comes to picking the joints.

What is our reasoning for not messing with the fluid change on a manual?

I'm of the mindset to buy Spicer brand u-joints. If you're going to remember to keep them greased, buy greasable. If you're not going to remember, buy the non greaseable.

You read that backwards! I would definitely change it on a manual! My recommendation was to leave it if it's an automatic. I've heard too many stories of automatic transmissions slipping after a flush. My wife's car started acting odd after a flush too and we did it shortly before the "recommended" interval.

 

[Big Bart]

Double ditto on Spicer u-joints.

I would spray the existing c-clips with penetrating oil a couple of different times before you go to remove them.

If you have a center support bearing I would replace that too.

Mark the drive shaft at the rear and front so you put it back on the same way you took it off or you may have balance issues.

You may want to watch this video.

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[DaveBen]

Make sure you mark the two halves of each driveshaft so they go back together 'in sync' or you will have balancing issues.