nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Excellent practice! That's a good idea for every connector you have reason to unplug.
Dead truck... please help!
- Thread starter ComatoseLlama
- Start date
ComatoseLlama
Full Access Member
One last question, are all 3 spade connectors in the IP supposed to get 12v at all times? Or is it just the shut off solenoid that needs it
ComatoseLlama
Full Access Member
Just to wrap the thread up nicely ( I hate finding threads with 90% of the info but no post about the fix)
1 Dorman automotive relay $9
1 add a circuit holder, I used the fuse spot for the GPC, #18 I believe (bottom one)
And a few feet of 12awg diesel resistant wire, and a bit of loom. Also a few connectors
I’m not a pro electrician but it’s definitely not half a**ed.
1 Dorman automotive relay $9
You must be registered for see images attach
1 add a circuit holder, I used the fuse spot for the GPC, #18 I believe (bottom one)
You must be registered for see images attach
And a few feet of 12awg diesel resistant wire, and a bit of loom. Also a few connectors
You must be registered for see images attach
I’m not a pro electrician but it’s definitely not half a**ed.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Glad you got it solved. These engines are very simple electrically. I had a friend with the same issue, I got him limped home with a stripped wire from 12v to fss. Good to know how to keep going in a situation like this. That connector corrodes over the years, then melts from arcing.
The red wire with a green stripe is key on power, it goes to the fss and glow plug relay I believe, and maybe some other stops along the way.
Another good tip, if your glow plug controller acts up stranding you, you can bypass it to trip the relay, or if you got a big chunk of metal like a screwdriver you don't care about, you can jump the relay. These trucks dont start well without glowplugs , some use ether instead but it's not recommended unless you disable the glowplugs. If one plug goes bad or has a bad connection the relay will get cycled rapidly by the controller spazzing out, not generating enough heat to start sometimes.
The red wire with a green stripe is key on power, it goes to the fss and glow plug relay I believe, and maybe some other stops along the way.
Another good tip, if your glow plug controller acts up stranding you, you can bypass it to trip the relay, or if you got a big chunk of metal like a screwdriver you don't care about, you can jump the relay. These trucks dont start well without glowplugs , some use ether instead but it's not recommended unless you disable the glowplugs. If one plug goes bad or has a bad connection the relay will get cycled rapidly by the controller spazzing out, not generating enough heat to start sometimes.
ComatoseLlama
Full Access Member
I really hope I didn't do all that work just because my plug burnt out and I didn't check the wire!
aggiediesel01
Full Access Member
If you check that bundle of fusible links on the hot side of the starter solenoid (the same group you just worked on for the GP system) I bet you'll find another one that has broken internally. Probably got fractured when you were flexing that bundle while fixing the GP wires and then when you hit the bump, ****, it was finished. If you leave your key on and start wiggling and pushing on some of those wires you'll probably here the pump solenoid click. That the broken one.
Chief
Registered User
As a pro electrician, that looks 10 times better than what I see from other “electricians” lol. Nice work!
The Gill Fish
Registered User
Check your ignition switch down on the column. I’ve got my dad’s old 1990 F250 with the 7.3. This phenomenon drove him nuts for years. Truck would just cut out going down the road. Restart would usually be fine. I inherited the truck after he passed, and one day, the thing died right in the driveway. Popped the ignition switch out and it completely fell apart in my hands.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
speaking of the ignition switch, they love to break. You put a lot of pressure on them when cranking over, and there is a cast iron wishbone looking piece that'll snap sooner or later.
Mine broke once, I fixed it, and then installed a push button for the starter so I wouldn't have to do this again hopefully.
Mine broke once, I fixed it, and then installed a push button for the starter so I wouldn't have to do this again hopefully.
genscripter
Full Access Member
That yellow wires burn up was the first repair I did on my first IDI. I got it home, parked it, the next day I fired it up and smelled plastic. Turned off the key and my plug looked exactly like that. Did a bypass of the two yellow wires and it's been good for 8 years. The connector must not handle the load well after it gets old.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Corrosion occurs between the two halves, the high amp load jumps the gaps generating heat. And it just gets worse until total failure or worse.
Same goes for any connector, ac or dc. I had an old well pump on ac, the outlet and plug were corroded so it didnt work. Those situations can cause a fire, keep em clean!
ComatoseLlama
Full Access Member
Update:
Do NOT use a generic female spade connector for this. Get a new connector or cannibalize the old one
Last night on the highway my spade connector wiggled itself just loose enough to cut off fuel without falling off. It was a simple fix but standing on the highway really sucks
Do NOT use a generic female spade connector for this. Get a new connector or cannibalize the old one
Last night on the highway my spade connector wiggled itself just loose enough to cut off fuel without falling off. It was a simple fix but standing on the highway really sucks
