Cooling issues!!!! Cannot chase this one down!!!

SDbernhardt

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I have a 94 7.3 idi turbo. I just changed out the IP and injectors did valve cover gaskets and glow plugs. After putting everything back together and taking it for a test drive I noticed the new radiator hose I put on was stiff as a rock and spitting coolant. I assumed thermostat so replaced it and still having issues. I noticed bubbles here and there but more seems like air bleeding out of the system. After warming up the engine with cap off I don't see a lot of movement in like the t stat opening up. If I leave cap on and let it build pressure and get really hot then I see good flow. Also pulled the hoses that go to the heater core and get good flow from the hose that comes off the block but hardly anything from the hose that comes from the top of the water pump not sure which way flow is supposed to be heading... Another strange symptom is after letting the system build pressure and kick my electric fans on to cool it makes the top radiator hose collapse on itself to were its almost closed off completely. Take the radiator cap off and it goes back to normal. No coolant in oil and no oil in coolant exhaust is puffing minimal white smoke but that's because I haven't had the pump timed correctly yet please help I'm at a complete loss here
 

SDbernhardt

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Well I can really only see one way the tstat would sit correctly in there but I could be wrong. Which side should be facing up? And not sure on the spring it is brand new and the one I took out was maybe a year and a half old.
 

snicklas

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Are they Motorcraft/IH thermostats, or something off the shelf at the parts store?

Yes, it does matter.........
 

riotwarrior

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If not direct from Ford Or IH the thermostat is crap.

Buy Ford or International Harvester ONLY

btw

What glow plugs? Again as above IH snd FORD only!!!!
 

fordf350man

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Just sounds like air in in the system to me. Anytime I had a hose collapse that has always been the problem. Since you did not have this problem until you replaced the hose then it is probably related to that repair. I would open the radiator with the engine off and cold, fill it until it is topped off, then start the engine and let it run until it gets up to operating temp so the thermostat is open then fill it as it gets low. That is how I have always done it. Make sure you have the heat on to check if it is working properly and also leave the fan on low when you do so the engine warms up faster. Having the blower fan on high makes it take a little longer to heat up.
 

SDbernhardt

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I have bled the system numerous times now to make sure I got all the air out... I have drained and flushed the system 3 times to make sure I don't have any debris in there... I honestly acts like the stat is not opening when it supposed to but after putting two new ones in I just don't know where to look now
 

fordf350man

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Run it without the stat in it and see if it still happens. Just keep an eye on your temp which I know you are already
 

SDbernhardt

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I have done that as well got good flow but was hard to tell if it was building excess pressure or not due to the fact I couldn't get the tstat housing to seal good so it was leaking pretty good... I have a new temp gauge on order. I have actually had two guages in for a long time... A mechanical hooked in on drivers side block just above headers which I think it is now giving a false reading g becuase it rarely gets above 140 on the gauge. and a digital guage with the sensor in the stock location but unsure of reading on it as well... The probe is pretty small and I'm unsure if it getting enough flow of coolant on it or if its picking up heat from the reducer fitting. It was showing a steady 230-240 last night while running the truck but I could still hold my hand to the radiator for about 3-4 seconds so I don't believe it is getting that hot either so at this point I am unsure of readings.. But I do know that the system is building a lot of pressure. Can anyone tell me how hard that top radiator hose is supposed to be before and after tstat opens.. I can squeeze the hose but not very much unsure of how much pressure this system usually operates with
 

Clb

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13#s of pressure makes the hose feel like a tube of caulking gun caulk.
Some guys refill via the heater core, I have had the 88 go thru 3-5 hot/cold cycles befor all the air was purged.
Try driving it in the cool am ( watch gauges) let cool refill, several times.
Bypass ball stuck in place or loose?
 

SDbernhardt

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Bypass ball seems like it has a little play but not enough to fall out and seems to be operating properly. I am running all these tests right now with straight water because I have flushed the system 4 times to get all the junk out. Will refill with coolant and start trying to get all the air out.. Is it possible that fluid is flowing through the block were one gauge is and not getting to the top of the heads to stock temp sensor location? Also get a good amount of steam after truck is up to operating temp but I'm assuming its because of using g straight water
 
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