coolant confusion

[FordGuy Aj]

ok I'm new to this website and to diesels. I hope I'm posting this correctly. I just got a 1992 f250 7.3 N/A... I have been reading about cavitation and I have no idea what the coolant that is in the truck consists of other than it is green. I already ordered test strips so will have in 2 days. I understand I need an additive to fight cavitation. but as far as coolant goes can I use normal say autozone or cheap prestone green concentrate? or do I need diesel specific coolant. I have read so many forums and so much Google I have myself overwhelmed with info. I read the fleet charge already has additives but also that its pink but the color doesnt matter, then read that stuff may cause problems in aluminum radiators.. could anyone please tell me if I need specific coolant for a diesel or if the pink stuff fleet charge has is what I need? also what do the plugs on the block to drain coolant look like? are they threaded plugs or what? thanks alot

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[franklin2]

The plugs are threaded, one on each side. There are several chemical soups you can run to fight cavitation. You will just have to pick one and stick with it. If you are considering the fleet charge, then look it up on the web or read the side of the bottle and see what is says about aluminum. I am assuming you are running a aluminum radiator or heater core?

 

[jayro88]

Welcome.

1. You can use Fleet Charge or you can get plain low sulfate coolant (the green stuff) and add SCA to it. I used to use Napa Kool and the green stuff. Napa can also order the test strips for you.

2. There are 2 plugs to drain the block. 1 on each side. They are located on the side of the block by the starter on one side and the oil filter on the other. They are a hex head that threads into the block. Make sure you use a 6 point socket to get them out since they are usually pretty stubborn. Once they are out I replaced mine with 2 1/4” NPT thread drain ***** to allow for easier draining next time.

3. Some people use different types of diesel ELC coolant. There have been a bunch of debates over them and about which ones would be good for ours. I recently switched to Global Final Charge. I would have to dig up the thread I started on it, but the info I found was that it should provide better cavitation protection and wouldn’t require recharging with SCA.


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[jayro88]

Also, I believe you have to use different test strips depending on the type/brand of SCA you use.


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[FordGuy Aj]

The plugs are threaded, one on each side. There are several chemical soups you can run to fight cavitation. You will just have to pick one and stick with it. If you are considering the fleet charge, then look it up on the web or read the side of the bottle and see what is says about aluminum. I am assuming you are running a aluminum radiator or heater core?

my truck is bone stock... I just have read so much info I dont know what to do now... I feel like just buying plain green coolant and pouring in the additives but again now I'm not sure if that's the right thing to do? I read some stuff eats solder or orings and gaskets or will mess with alum/copper.. I dont want to cause leaks or water pump failure because right now I have 0 coolant issues and I dont want to cause any.. but also dont want cavitation.. thanks for the reply

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[FordGuy Aj]

thanks, I ordered fleet guard coolant analysis test kit... just to see what the stuff that's in there reads, if I just get green type can it be any type? autozone one says any car/light duty truck. is it ok or is it diesel rated like it is for motor oil? also should I stay away from the SCA offered at say napa or a parts store shelf and just order the motor craft stuff from amazon? the VC-8 I can order $18/bottle and read I need 2 bottles

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[Macrobb]

I'm using Zerex HD ELC coolant - seems to be compatible with metals and won't eat old rubber like some of the newer OAT coolants. It is red and leaves behind a pink/white powder if it dries somewhere - which can be useful for finding slow leaks.

 

[nostrokes]

Welcome to the forum and the joy of diesels..

First thing I would do, since you have no idea what's in there, is flush the system. It is true that certain additives need certain test strips, you cannot use NAPA Kool test strips with motorcraft additives and so on. It will give you false readings. I have a aluminum rad, and I'm currently using NAPA green coolant and NAPA Kool SCA. Have not had any issues with the aluminum rad as of yet, been about 8-10 months with it.

If you don't want to mess with additives fleet charge with SCA's already in it should be fine, plenty of users here running it.

 

[jayro88]

Here is what I have been using

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[FordGuy Aj]

ok thanks. I looked at that at walmart last night. it says do not add SCA's. does it have the stuff in there to fight cavitation?

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[jayro88]

I will let some other people answer that for sure Incase I was given wrong info. I posted over on FTE when I was thinking about switching. After a bit of a discussion the conclusion was that it protects against cavitation better than coolant+SCAs and that it should not mess with any o-rings in the system.




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[79jasper]

Most prefer the fleet charge over the final charge. Usually orielly and tractor supply have it. You probably won't find it at Walmart.
Another decent one is cat elc.

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[snicklas]

I have been using Zerex G-05. It has the cavitation protection, done not harm the older gaskets and o rings. It also protects the aluminum in the cooling system. It also seemes readily available. This is what I’m going to use in 5e IDI after I change the water pump and heater core. It what I used in the las IDI and will when I flush the 6.0 again.