Clutch won't release when warm, works fine cold, *** mate?

[NapaBavarian]

Every morning my clutch works great, then when things warm up the clutch won't release...is this the pilot bushing? Bad hydraulics? A problem for "The X Files"? HELP! I can't take it anymore!

 

[EvergreenRanch]

that sucks! unfortunatly i have no idea! so when you say it wont release.....you mean the pedal wont return or that the clutch remains engaged and the trucks effectivly in neutral?

 

[NapaBavarian]

It is like the clutch is draging, I can still get it into gear, but with great effort, if I start it when it is in gear then the truck starts going foreward slowly, lacking full disengagement.

 

[RLDSL]

that does sound alot like a bum pilot bearing

 

[Agnem]

When was the last time you serviced your throw out bearing? This is covered in our FAQ.

 

[sle2115]

Or checked the firewall...sounds like mine before applying the cracked firewall kit.

 

[Joe Mc]

That is the classic symptom of a cracked firewall. As the truck and the weather gets warmer it gets harder and harder to shift gears. At least, that is how I read your problem.

Before I installed the large firewall repair kit from Ford, I had to turn mine off before I could get it in reverse if I had been driving very far. It would shift pretty good in the morning with the truck cold and even better if the air temp was 40 or lower.

 

[sle2115]

That is the classic symptom of a cracked firewall. As the truck and the weather gets warmer it gets harder and harder to shift gears. At least, that is how I read your problem.

Before I installed the large firewall repair kit from Ford, I had to turn mine off before I could get it in reverse if I had been driving very far. It would shift pretty good in the morning with the truck cold and even better if the air temp was 40 or lower.

That is how I read it as well and mine did the exact same thing.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Or checked the firewall...sounds like mine before applying the cracked firewall kit.

I did that months ago, problem got better, now geting worse again.

 

[sle2115]

Did you install the major or minor kit? The minor kit is a waste of time in my experience and usually is only a short term fix because it is not even designed as a fix. The TSB says if there is any movement, to use the major kit. The minor kit is just to prevent cracking if you have NONE. If you have a crack, the minor kit will prolly not be the cure.

 

[hahn_rossman]

firewall cracking is a symptom, not a problem

I just went thru this headache myself, and in the course of scouring the archives I came across a post (mel's?) that noted that firewall cracking is a symptom of the throwout bearing getting harder and harder to slide along the input shaft. Eventually you start breaking the firewall with all that stomping on the clutch pedal. My pilot bearing died and when I took it apart (big sigh, and laments about 4WD) removed the shrapnel that it had become and replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing, I was amazed at how easy the pedal is to depress. If you haven't driven a truck with a recent clutch job, or one of those fancy greasable throwout bearings I don't think you can imagine how easy it can be. Good luck, and by all means unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing.

 

[NapaBavarian]

I adjusted the linkage now it is OK, and not stiff at all. I did use the big firewall kit, and got the linkage as tight as possible on reinstall, but when I checked today it was bleedy loose

 

[sle2115]

Might be those pesky plastic clutch rod/pedal bushings. Mine were shot and the way the PO fixed things it caused the whole bracket to become worn to an oval hole instead of round.

 

[Joe Mc]

I never thought that my clutch pedal was stiff until I installed a remote lube throw-out bearing. When I first installed it I thought something was broken or installed wrong because the pedal went to the floor so easily and that was when I first pushed the pedal by hand. It now seems to fall to the floor when I think about it.

 

[EvergreenRanch]

yeah that %^#$ing bushing made my life hell for a good month before i got it fixed with the Heim joint (aka rod end bearing if you get the "huh, never hurd bout one of dem" at local parts depot). biggest problem was getting the joint itself, as i was lazy and didnt want to deal with internet and shipping. so shopping locally i ended up finding the joint at my local OSH. and it was during their no-sales tax sale AND marked down 50% so i was out the door for $4 with joint, grade 8 bolt, washers, and nut in hand. 45 minutes with a flex head dremel and cutting wheel and she was done. 500 times better! i dont hear my firewall flexing anymore, and shifting performance is phenominal. anyone want more details the link to the tutorial is in IDI tech articles or PM me and ill walk you through it.

(as a side note i didnt bother with the set-screw outlined in the tutorial, didnt see a need and there havent been any detrimental side-effects)