Clutch time!!

[dogobat]

is there any trick going to a 12" clutch, or is it a bolt on upgrade? 1986 F350 DRW cab and chassis 4x4 t-19 4 speed

 

[Kizer]

https://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-2...gine-clutch-kit-ford-f250-f350-pickup-12.aspx

Use your "Google-Fu" man.
There are other manufacturers as well.

 

[IDIoit]

i seem to remember that a 12" wont fit the T-19 bell housing

 

[Fordman1920032003]

i seem to remember that a 12" wont fit the T-19 bell housing

I ran a 12" on a t19 on a 460

 

[onetonjohn]

Having done many clutches on these trucks, I would recommend LUK brand. The kit should be 07-065.

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[onetonjohn]

Before you replace the clutch for hard to shift complaints, check hydraulic fluid level, check for leaks, and check firewall for flexing when clutch pedal is depressed. If you need to replace the clutch, for best results, be sure to resurface flywheel, inspect clutch fork and pivot ball. My 2 cents.

 

[jrollf]

Before you replace the clutch for hard to shift complaints, check hydraulic fluid level, check for leaks, and check firewall for flexing when clutch pedal is depressed. If you need to replace the clutch, for best results, be sure to resurface flywheel, inspect clutch fork and pivot ball. My 2 cents.

Do the 1986 trucks have the same 'pedal bearings' the OBS trucks did? If so they are plastic and will wear enough to reduce clutch pedal travel making it hard to shift, can't completely release the clutch.

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[Danielle]

The first time I thought my clutch went was the little pedal pivot broke. Someone on eBay makes an amazing and well made kit that makes the removal of slave unnecessary. It is adjustable also and eliminates all the weak parts of that area

This works if your firewall isn't stretching and or if you've already reinforced it

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[dogobat]

Luk 12" 07-065 on it's way! Thanks all, as always! Wish me luck! or luk, lol.........

 

[onetonjohn]

Do the 1986 trucks have the same 'pedal bearings' the OBS trucks did? If so they are plastic and will wear enough to reduce clutch pedal travel making it hard to shift, can't completely release the clutch.
I'm not sure. But good to add to the checklist.
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[dogobat]

OK, scratching my head - seat's out, shifters removed starter removed, do I remove the transmission with or without the bellhousing? Looks like the crossmember needs to come out? Necessary to remove exhaust? Remove transfer case w/tranny or seperately?

 

[cozinsky]

Remove the transfer case and crossmember, then unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and remove it. Once the transmission is out you can remove the bell housing and clutch assembly. When going back together I always put the transmission in gear first. That way you can turn the output shaft to help align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc. You shouldn't have to mess with the exhaust.

 

[dogobat]

Thank You!! Just what I needed!!

 

[TahoeTom]

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I was able to pull the trans back and support it with a chain and 4x4. I made some alignment dowels cutting the heads off a couple of long bolts threaded into the bell housing to help guide the trans back in. The cross member can be swung out of the way pivoting on the drivers side. That side is the most difficult bolts to get out. Three of the four have to be removed to swing the cross member. One more thought. The engine is going to drop down with the trans removed, so you should support the rear of the engine. I hate putting a jack under the oil pan. I think I made a wood pad with a hole in it for the drain plug. Maybe better is to support it on the sides of the pan rails where it bolts to the block but not as easy to do.