Clutch Fan Removal??

ericboutin

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Hey all, so I was experiencing a weird "overheat" problem that I thought was air in the system because it actually cleared up I thought. Well this past weekend my daughter and I went to ride the OHV trails which are about 50 miles away 90% interstate. On the way down the dummy gauge pegged over 3 miles from our exit, pulled over and it cooled itself down. On the way home it started getting hot right away like 10 miles onto the interstate and didn't peg over till we were about 10 miles from the house. I kept going and it fixed itself again but this time without stopping.
So tonight I did some tests that I found on here for checking the fan clutch and it does appear now that this is what my problem is. When it's cold you can spin it with only a little bit of resistance but the more you spin it by hand the looser it becomes. I then did the rev till 2000 rpm's for 5 mins....I did it for more like 15 and I don't think the fan ever engaged.
Ok after all that I'm looking in my shop manuals and the directions for removing the clutch fan are not the same as what I think I'm looking at. I have one of the wrenches required but I can't see a place to put another wrench? How do you remove the fan clutch? I put the big wrench on the fan but when I turn it everything turns....yes I'm confused. Here is what I'm looking at and here is the wrench that I have....got it from Travis (Argve) about 1000 years ago. Thanks for any insight.

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Brad S.

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The second wrench should fit over the four bolts that hold the pulley on the water pump hub.
It is quite a bit bigger then your wrench shown.
I'll someone else chime in with pics.
Maybe you could rent that bigger wrench from a parts store.
 

ironworker40

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You only have only half of the wrenches. There are two needed.The first is the fan clutch wrench. The second is to hold the water pump from turning. I don't know if you will be able to see it on these pictures but it goes around the 4 water pump pulley bolt heads. The square takes a 1/2 in rachet or breaker bar.
 

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ericboutin

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Ahhhh!!! Much appreciated!! And here I thought I had the bigger of the two wrenches! I will have to talk to the folks at my friendly NAPA and see if I can borrow the bigger wrench. Thanks again!
 

riotwarrior

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Some use a wrench that is bolted together at one and and opens up like a big V and two prongs go over two of the water pump bolts...seen that too.

Pneumatic fan wrench set with the one to hold the WP is the simplest IMHO...gotta love Air hammer and that wrench, don't even need the big wrench most of the time!
 

ironworker40

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If you get one trace it on some cardboard and you can cut it out of 1/4 in plate.
 

ericboutin

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So I was doing some research and Autozone and Advance have Torqflo and Imperial for 136. Napa has an unknown brand for 164. O'Reilly has Hayden for 136, Murray for 150 and Motorcraft for 98! Guess I will go with the Motorcraft! Of course it says it's unavailable but hopefully they can order one.

Thanks again!
 

ironworker40

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Some use a wrench that is bolted together at one and and opens up like a big V and two prongs go over two of the water pump bolts...seen that too.

Pneumatic fan wrench set with the one to hold the WP is the simplest IMHO...gotta love Air hammer and that wrench, don't even need the big wrench most of the time!
But I don't trust that air hammer to put it back on. I never had one loosen up that I tightened by hand. I seen guys just start the threads and then hit the starter and then let it lock itself up, but I'm not betting my radiator on that either
 

whitehorse

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I used a wrench on the back side of the water pump pulley to hold it in place while I broke the nut loose with a big wrench...
 

icanfixall

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You are missing the large wrench that fits over the bolt heads like posted. If your good with a cutting torch you can make the big wrench easy. Al it does is capture the outside of the bolts that holds the pulley to the hub. Not a good design but it works. I use a 24 and 36 inch breaker bars on my 2 wrenches. Remember these nut threads are LEFT hand. Just look at the fan shroud for this detail some miss. Use blue loctite for sure and about 160 ft lbs of tightening torque. Please... Use only the Motorcraft fan clutch. Others fit but are a cheap temp repair. They fail quickly from all the reports here. You can modify the thermal spring so the clutch locks up at lower temps too. Some ford clutches wont lock up till 240 degrees. Not good. The MS Tech clutch is a modified motorcraft clutch. What they do is remove the flat spring and straighten it out and rebend it making it longer. You can easily se this on the front of the clutch. Just cut out the rtv and clean it well. Then bend the spring flat and rebend it so it fits ok in the slot. Add rtv and let dry. Now your good to go. Want to test this modification just do it on the worn out fan clutch. Save the spring too. They do not wear out. Some members have found a way to refill the viscous fluid but.. When you see dirt or oily substance around the spring or seal it means the seal is shot and fluid is going to leak out. Time for a new clutch.
 
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