Changing one head gasket, should I change the other side

[cheap bronco]

Changing one head gasket, should I change the other side *UPDATE*

Well im doing what I didnt expect to happen after only 3k miles after a rebuild. My passenger side head gasket developed a small leak towards the middle somewhere. Now since im changing the lifters and have it torn apart should I change the drivers side? Or just take care of the pass side and slap it back together. The gaskets I used on the rebuild were Felpro, now I have the Victor Reinz gasket. Ive used felpro in the past on different engines with no problems. What are your suggestions. Thanks in advance

******UPDATE******

well I pulled the passenger head and there is nothing that I couldve seen wrong with the gasket, cause the outside layers of the gasket stuck to the head and block. Had to peel the gasket off the head, anyways the pistons and valves look ok, no kissing goin on. So it couldve been just a bad gasket. All that work, I wish I had a rep from FELPRO there so I can slap a few times with the head gasket.

 

[79jasper]

Do both.

 

[PwrSmoke]

I agree... do both, super-especially since you are going to change gasket brands. They are a slightly different compressed thickness and you want combustion chamber volume the same on both sides as much as possible.

Most likely it's an installation and torquing issue, not a particular problem with FelPro gaskets. Doing both gaskets also give you the chance to make double sure of the torque.

Did you stud or did you use OE bolts? If the latter, did you reuse the bolts or go with new? I would strongly consider studs but if not, get new bolts and carefully check head and block decks for cleanliness and trueness and make sure the head bolt threaded holes a super clean to get the most accurate torque (use a bottoming tap for best results). The factory style bolts are not always good for more than one use and can get overly stretched.

 

[icanfixall]

I agree with the above posting. If you can't do both you have to consider why this one failed and is the other side going to fail later on. Checking the head and block areas where the leak appeared is very important too. I'm guessing you have the engine out of the truck. Well hopefully its out of the truck. the passenger side it the hard side to remove but both are tuff to remove iframe..

 

[riotwarrior]

I concur with the above,

If your in this deep, now is a great time to do both at once.

Looking at the inside when you have a chance, to see any potential problems...maybe kiss kiss of valve piston etc tells lots and adds piece of mind!

Never know whats' going on till ya have a good look see, the exact reason I'm doing this to the engine I've got going in my truck!

 

[cheap bronco]

I concur with the above,

If your in this deep, now is a great time to do both at once.

Looking at the inside when you have a chance, to see any potential problems...maybe kiss kiss of valve piston etc tells lots and adds piece of mind!

Never know whats' going on till ya have a good look see, the exact reason I'm doing this to the engine I've got going in my truck!

I have studs installed so its not bad. I torqued the heads down to 120 ft lbs per ARP specs. You guys are probably right, I will change the other side also. The engine is still in the truck so its a little pain in the ass to work on.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for the heads up on the ARP studs and that the engine is still in the truck. Did you pull the engine for the rebuild or is the rebuild idea something less than removing the engine and machining plus parts replacement. Just trying to understand why a known fine gasket failed and you have not mentioned what failed. Coolant or oil. If the head has been pulled what did you find wrongin the leak area. Just attempting to help find the cause of the leak. I know how horrible it is when you feel you repaired something only to find it still is there. Years ago I was staining the new kitchen cabinets when the wife "saw" a place I had missed. Of course she wanted me to fix it so I stained it again. Same thing happened. So I sanded it down thinking I had some glue on that area but nope. Tried 2 more times to fix it but no deal. so she takes over. Tries 2 times and gets pissed. Starts her third try when I moved and stopped the sunlight from shining in threw the window.. sure nuff. the sun was making the stain job looked like we both missed a place. After that the good wifey got the nickname from me... **** Stain... I told her thats what they call a cabinet maker that stains for a living...

 

[cheap bronco]

that some funny Sh*t icanfixall. yes i had the engine out when i did a (reseal, not a total rebuild). and yes it the coolant that was leaking. Before i tore into the engine i used a product called blue devil head gasket repair. it stopped the seepage, but i had trouble sleeping at night knowing it was just a band aid. since the motor developed a lifter knock and now im changing them i decided to do the head gasket job, because i like to sleep at night. I have been reading about a product Hylomar spray (i think its spelled right), used to spray on the head gaskets for a better seal, but I cannot find it anywhere here in town (Phx, Az) area. All i can find is the Permatex copper spray. I have never used any sprays on the gaskets in prior engine reseals and rebuilds and never had a problem, mind you they were all gas engines. Im wondering if the diesel vibrations have anything to do with it.

 

[icanfixall]

Hylomar can only be purchased online from what I recall. Robert, sign on name is RLDSL is famous for using this on many different engines and never has had any issues with it. I would have used it on my engine but did not know bout it back then. Have you found the reason for the lifter knock yet. Hopefully the cam is not flat on that lobe but if you find cam issues ebay has plenty of new oem cams available plus both Russ aka typ4 and R&D Performance sells nice aftermarket cams that improve the idi hp and torque.

 

[cheap bronco]

Hylomar can only be purchased online from what I recall. Robert, sign on name is RLDSL is famous for using this on many different engines and never has had any issues with it. I would have used it on my engine but did not know bout it back then. Have you found the reason for the lifter knock yet. Hopefully the cam is not flat on that lobe but if you find cam issues ebay has plenty of new oem cams available plus both Russ aka typ4 and R&D Performance sells nice aftermarket cams that improve the idi hp and torque.

I have found that in the past the lifter will go before the cam lobes flatten. Thanks for the heads up. Another question, if I drain the coolant on the drivers side does it come out of the pass side or do I need to drain the pass side also? Thanks again

 

[riotwarrior]

.... Another question, if I drain the coolant on the drivers side does it come out of the pass side or do I need to drain the pass side also? Thanks again

NOPE must drain both sides, now is time to install petcocks btw!

 

[cheap bronco]

Well said. Petcocks

 

[icanfixall]

Petcocks are the best thing for our cooling systems but be sure you get the ones that have the short nipple on the end of them. That way you can install a short piece of hose and direct the flow to a bucket instead of making a mess.