Block freeze plug write up

RLDSL

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With all the people having freeze plugs problems lately due to improper installation at machine shops ( myself included ) I decided to document putting these things in the correct way. with some pictures Hopefully this will help some people out in the future. After seeing how the factory tool works I can't possibly see how anyone could expect to see the plugs on the sides and rear of these engines to seal properly without it.

This is for the 7 concave freeze plugs ( core plugs that go around the exterior of the block, 3 on the driver's side, 2 on the passenger side ( block heater is normally installed in the third hole on passenger side ) and 2 on the rear of the block behind the flywheel.

You will need ford Rotunda tool # 303-D045 Expansion Plug Replacer
Call 1-800-ROTUNDA ( the number rings through to OTC/SPX tools and is administered by Snap On these days, so you may be able to order the tool from a Snap On Truck, I've purchased other Rotunda OTC tools off the snap on truck before so... ) and do expect to get a runaround. They get about $135 for the thing. It's expensive but that turkey holds the outer shape of the plug perfectly keeping it pointed the right direction, while compressing the center the exact amount needed to seat the things in place where they won't walk out and leak. If you've had one come loose after someone installed one incorrectly , It's a miserable, expensive, time consuming thing to have to go back after them to get it right, Buy the tool.

The freeze plugs are ford part #E3TZ6026A and list price is $0.97 ea on them ( I got them from www.directfordparts.com for $0.68 each ). Get the ones from Ford or International. I got one from Napa to compare and the shape is different and edges were rough and will likely not seal properly.The ones from Ford were very high quality, smooth finish all around, uniform production ( I bought a bunch extra thinking I might need to cull some, not so)

Removing the old ones is easy, drill out the center and stick something in and pry them out, they pop out pretty easy, especially if they haven't been put in correctly.Do not drill too far and punch a hole through a cylinder .

Clean the holes with brass wire wheel down to clean metal remove all rust and corrosion, expect to spend some time on them, there will be some crud there to work off. The outer circle is what has to be perfect, chances are there will be some irregularity on the part facing out. You just want to make sure that the new plug will lay down in the hole with the edges flush with the edges of the hole. If there is any debris holding it up, your plug will not seal.

Run some kind of magnet that you know is not going to break off inside the engine down in the holes to get all the shavings out. I've always found that Radio Shack has these nice little round magnets with holes in the middle, and one of those and a nice stout piece of fishing line make for a great shaving retrieval tool.

clean the holes and new plugs with acetone or anaerobic sealer activator ( same thing , use safety precautions)

Pic 1-3 : Fill groove with gasket sealer and put sealer around edge of new plug ( The manual calls for a ford sealer no longer in existence with no other part number to cross reference it to. I use Hylomar Racing formula, seriously good stuff ,You'd have a hard time finding a better sealer)

Pic 4: Set the new plug in place.

Pic 5-6: Separate the two pieces of the expansion plug installer tool and with just the outer section of the tool, gently tap the plug to seat down in the hole.

Pic 7-10: Next, insert the other part of the tool in the middle, and whack it down ( you gorillas with wrists bigger than my legs take it easy, you don't want to crack the block ) . Keep whacking it down , you will see it steadily going further down, as you see the clearance getting close between the top of the outer part of the tool and the bottom of the head of the inner part of the tool, stop , and while holding the inner part down, see if the outer part has any room to lift up` ( see pic 9) if so, give a few more whacks until there is no clearance between the inner and outer parts of the tool, and that point, the new freeze plug is seated perfectly.

Pat yourself on the back and enjoy a long leak free future.

-----Robert
 

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icanfixall

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Very nice indeed..... Any chance you can measure the driver end so I know how much sticks out and dents the plug? I still want to buy one of these. Now are you going to air test these? I did mine with one of the plates I made to cover up the thermostat opening. I have all the hydro plates that you need for a proper hydro on the block. I made covers for the oil cooler, the coolant from the radiator to the block, the front end of the motor with the water pump off and the timing cover off along with the heads. Around 35 lbs and some soapy water works fine for detecting a leaker.
 

RLDSL

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Very nice indeed..... Any chance you can measure the driver end so I know how much sticks out and dents the plug? I still want to buy one of these. Now are you going to air test these? I did mine with one of the plates I made to cover up the thermostat opening. I have all the hydro plates that you need for a proper hydro on the block. I made covers for the oil cooler, the coolant from the radiator to the block, the front end of the motor with the water pump off and the timing cover off along with the heads. Around 35 lbs and some soapy water works fine for detecting a leaker.

I'll try to measure that thing on Wed. Going to tied up till then. Get you the measurements and the angle on the outer shell, that there, makes a big part of the way it seats.

The way those things set in I'm not the least bit worried about leaking, aside from the hylomar sealant which will stretch with an expanding gap and has a curtaining effect if any such problem were to arise, which I have no doubt it wont, I run a zero pressure system with Evans coolant. It;s nuts that I lost a plug at all before, the thing just walked out, talk about poor installation, no pressure on it, just the vibration did it in. I do have my low tech bicycle inertube and motocycle innertube pressureizing test rig that I always hook up for giggles before stuffing an engine, just cut a bike tube and clamp it over the heater in and outlets and a motorcycle tube and clamp it to the radiator in and outlets. Works great.
 

yARIC008

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So... does anyones freeze plugs actually do what they're supposed to do? Anyones engine ever freeze? Seems like all they do is pop out at the wrong time.
 

Brimmstone

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A freeze plug doesn't have anything to do with freezing at all. The correct term is casting plug. The holes are there so they can remove the sand from the interior of the block after it has been cast.
 

RLDSL

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robert-
I gotta ask.....
you have a thing for Slimer from Ghostbusters?:D

What can I say, my kids liked the colour :rotflmao Now my son wants to paint the truck black with flames or stripes that colour. I told him if he wants to mess with all that taping off and extra work, we'll do it. He did most of the prep and paint work on one of our cars when he was 9 and did a nice job, HE's 11 now so I figure he's up for it.
 

Mr_B

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A freeze plug doesn't have anything to do with freezing at all. The correct term is casting plug. The holes are there so they can remove the sand from the interior of the block after it has been cast.

Now that would make a lot of sense... I have had a really decent small block chevy completely ruined when the coolant inside froze. The "freeze" plugs were completely fine, still in place and hadn't moved a hair... The block on the other hand was split open all the way down the side.:mad:
 

Agnem

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Excellent article! This is headed to the tech library.
 
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riotwarrior

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Thats a Fantastic write up. Great pics that Kawaintersakinational Kerker GREEN engine makes it way easy to see what your showing!

I am going to the Snap-On truck on Monday and checking out that part # and seeing what part of my body I'll have to dismember to afford it from him. Usually I find that when they sell a product from a different manufacturer other than themselves it's more than twice the price.
 

RLDSL

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Thats a Fantastic write up. Great pics that Kawaintersakinational Kerker GREEN engine makes it way easy to see what your showing!

I am going to the Snap-On truck on Monday and checking out that part # and seeing what part of my body I'll have to dismember to afford it from him. Usually I find that when they sell a product from a different manufacturer other than themselves it's more than twice the price.

Thanks.
If it's any price reference, I paid about $83 off the snap on truck for the Ford Rotunda OTC/SPX Injection pump wrench ( that nice thin curved 9/16 wrench for the pump mount bolts ) It's hard to say how much they tag on to the price.
When I ordered the plug tool from Rotunda I used my shop name ( I'm semi retired, but I still run a shop out of the house) Someone else called them about a half hour later and was given a different price, about $30 higher, so it might not hurt if calling to get creative :angel:
 

RLDSL

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Very nice indeed..... Any chance you can measure the driver end so I know how much sticks out and dents the plug? I still want to buy one of these. Now are you going to air test these? I did mine with one of the plates I made to cover up the thermostat opening. I have all the hydro plates that you need for a proper hydro on the block. I made covers for the oil cooler, the coolant from the radiator to the block, the front end of the motor with the water pump off and the timing cover off along with the heads. Around 35 lbs and some soapy water works fine for detecting a leaker.


Hey Gary, Sorry, Forgot about measuring that critter, here's the dimensions
outer shell length 5"
inner shell length 4.956"
shell wall thickness 0.2475"
shell hole 0.993"
Shell outside diameter 1.5"

Plunger:
overall length 6"
length that goes through shell to shoulder 4.991"
Length of Striking head 1.009"
Width of chamfer around end of plunger 0.061" ~45 deg chamfer
Diameter of plunger 0.992"
Diameter of striking head 1.375"
Chamfer around striking head thickness 0.233" ~ 45 deg chamfer

That otta cover it :D
----------Robert
 

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