block casting numbers id needed

joe f350

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6 9 llf 150598



second row 112 893



i was told this is a 87 motor but i have my doubts. so a confired id would help thx u
 

joe f350

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it a motor that i swaped in to my 85 cause i broke a gp off in the cyclder head
 

joe f350

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looking back yea it would cause. Im haveing nothing but problems with this motor. If it is a 87 some one has swaped the timeing cover and i bet the timing is off there two because it hase the older two pice style oil flier neck
 

towcat

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looking back yea it would cause. Im haveing nothing but problems with this motor. If it is a 87 some one has swaped the timeing cover and i bet the timing is off there two because it hase the older two pice style oil flier neck
want to know if it is? read carefully.
put the harmonic balancer line to TDC. that's the lower fitting on the timing tab with the "O" and the hash mark stamped on the tab.
remove the ip access plate and take a look where the ip locating pin is at. you will either be at the "4:30" or "10:30" position in relation to the circle of the timing cover. you will be either at TDC or 180* out. no worries just check it first. you are either on or not. off 1 tooth makes a huge difference.
if you have any doubts, come down to the shop with the hubs and a 12 pack and I can check it out for you and do a reset if necessary.;Sweet
 

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icanfixall

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Thanks for a great picture showing alot of special information. First it shows where the pin should be at tdc if your gear timing is correct. Then it shows just how deep below the top of the block you need to go before your going to see the cam gear timing "Y". Then it clearly shows the injection pump 5/16 hex bolts that hold the pump to the gear... And the pic is not blurry....A+++ to ya....:sly:thumbsup:
 

towcat

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Thanks for a great picture showing alot of special information. First it shows where the pin should be at tdc if your gear timing is correct. Then it shows just how deep below the top of the block you need to go before your going to see the cam gear timing "Y". Then it clearly shows the injection pump 5/16 hex bolts that hold the pump to the gear... And the pic is not blurry....A+++ to ya....:sly:thumbsup:
I can do blurry if that trips your switch:D
(for the rest of general population....it drives Gary nuts.:eek:)
heere ya go....;Sweet
 

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joe f350

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want to know if it is? read carefully.
put the harmonic balancer line to TDC. that's the lower fitting on the timing tab with the "O" and the hash mark stamped on the tab.
remove the ip access plate and take a look where the ip locating pin is at. you will either be at the "4:30" or "10:30" position in relation to the circle of the timing cover. you will be either at TDC or 180* out. no worries just check it first. you are either on or not. off 1 tooth makes a huge difference.
if you have any doubts, come down to the shop with the hubs and a 12 pack and I can check it out for you and do a reset if necessary.;Sweet



thank u very much :hail i will be in touch. i have moved the fresno area but i still have the hubs . i will scrape up some fuel money and be on my way :thumbsup:
 

hesutton

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The first three positions are the engine displacement(6.9L). The fourth digit D, indicates a naturally aspirated/non-turbocharged engine. The fifth and sixth digits M2, indicate an engine built for truck use. The seventh digit U, indicates that the engine was built in the U.S.A. The
rest of the digits are the specific engine serial number. Early 6.9L engines with serial numbers (below 59208_ are known as 6.9A series. Later 6.9's (serial number 59209 and higher) are known as the B series engines.
The 7.3L engine serial numbers begin with 500001. On IH factory rebuilds("ReNEWed" engines), the serial numbers are in the same location as new OEM engines, but the fourth digit is a F, which indicates a naturally aspirated/non-turbocharged engine.

You sure you have the number correct as that doesn't fit IH serial number sequence?

Heath
 

joe f350

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tow cat i did wht u said i did it twice to be shure
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i got this both times
 
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