Big Ugly goes to rehab

[Dirtleg]

Not a lot of progress today but I did strip all the decades bleached out window tint off the rear window on my lunch today. Now just need some goof off or solvent to get the rest of the adhesive off.

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So ever so slowly things are getting accomplished.

 

[Jason1377]

Not a lot of progress today but I did strip all the decades bleached out window tint off the rear window on my lunch today. Now just need some goof off or solvent to get the rest of the adhesive off.

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So ever so slowly things are getting accomplished.

Use some purple power or if u have a dollar general store near get some la awesome it will take stuff off n not leave oil resdue

 

[Dirtleg]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've got purple power, simple green, krud kutter around. I'll try them out.

 

[Dirtleg]

Today's been a good day.

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Big Ugly got new shoes.

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Haven't driven on them yet but hoping all's good with balancing.

Little by little. At least now I don't have to worry about a dry rotted tire blowing out on me going down the road.

Also I went down a size to 285 70/17 in the hopes it puts me closer to 1700 rpm when rolling down the highway.

 

[bbjordan]

Now just need some goof off or solvent to get the rest of the adhesive off.

If you have access to bio-diesel, it works great.

 

[Dirtleg]

So road tested everything is good. And as hoped even with the higher rpms going down the road the egt's are lower overall.

I hadn't recalibrated the speedo when I did the road test and it was reading about 10% high checked with GPS.

In fairness it was reading about 6% high before the tire swap so it needed to be recalibrated anyway.

Just a note about how important the rollout measurement is. Based on tire specs the diameter should be 32.7". But after doing the rollout measurement and the math behind it the number turned out to be 31.75 so a significant variable there.

Since then I've done the equation for the psom calibration and updated the calibration number.

Was 875 before and I ended up at 953 based on measurements.

Will verify against the gps when I head home today.

**Update** After driving home my speedo is off by 1 mph. An indicated 70 is actually 69 mph.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

So road tested everything is good. And as hoped even with the higher rpms going down the road the egt's are lower overall.

I hadn't recalibrated the speedo when I did the road test and it was reading about 10% high checked with GPS.

In fairness it was reading about 6% high before the tire swap so it needed to be recalibrated anyway.

Just a note about how important the rollout measurement is. Based on tire specs the diameter should be 32.7". But after doing the rollout measurement and the math behind it the number turned out to be 31.75 so a significant variable there.

Since then I've done the equation for the psom calibration and updated the calibration number.

Was 875 before and I ended up at 953 based on measurements.

Will verify against the gps when I head home today.

**Update** After driving home my speedo is off by 1 mph. An indicated 70 is actually 69 mph.

That would be close enough for me! That's the way I like my speedometers to read, one or two MPH fast. That way if I drive by the speedometer, I shouldn't be at much risk of getting a speeding ticket.

 

[Dirtleg]

So today turned out to be A/C day. First I removed the old junk.

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Next was flushing. Lots of flushing. And when I finished that there was more flushing. Flushed till it was coming out clear on both the condenser and evaporator. Hope it was good enough.

Learned a little trick to getting all the flush out of the evaporator. When purging with air, briefly block the evaporator exit and let a little pressure build. When you release it the surge pulls the fluid down in the evaporator out. By doing this repeatedly, blocked for 2 seconds, open for 2 seconds I was able to get it empty and dry much quicker than air alone. But use a rag as it makes a glorious mess otherwise.

The condenser on the other hand was easy to get empty and dry.

So after all that I started reassembling with new o-rings everywhere.

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New Orifice valve and flushed line installed.

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I didn't really take anymore pictures after that as I was more focused on getting done.

Once everything was installed I pulled a vacuum on the system and let it sit while I ate lunch to make sure it wasn't leaking.

Leak test passed and I started vacuuming the system for 45 minutes during which time I tried to install my new accessory drive belt.
I say tried. Repeatedly. Seems it's just too short. Don't know why. It's a Motorcraft belt number 1113. Old belt has the number 1110 on it. New belt was so close to fitting but just wouldn't. I even left it out in the sun on the black driveway hoping it would grow enough to fit when hot. It didn't. So old belt back on for now.

So system vacuumed and adding 134a. All goes well. At some point in the process the compressor quits short cycling and cold air is coming out the dash. Finally. Ended up using just under 3 12oz cans of 134a before the pressures on the gauges were good.

So now Big Ugly has workin A/C again.

All told it took about 9 hours. 2 1/2 hours flushing and 1 1/2 hours failing to get the new belt on. There was also a trip to the Auto parts store for some Pag46 compressor oil. Not too bad for me but I work a little slow typically.

 

[snicklas]

Belt length seems to be a common problem with the serpentine belt. I had the same issus on the 92 we had. Actually had to run the belt across the top of the vacuum pump to get one to fit. We sold the truck and got the 88 not long after.

Having dealt with both, on an IDI, I prefer the v belts.......

 

[towcat]

i have a trick to make it all work. will have to post pics later.
truck not near me right now.

 

[Dirtleg]

i have a trick to make it all work. will have to post pics later.
truck not near me right now.

Are you referring to the belt?
Do tell.

 

[towcat]

Are you referring to the belt?
Do tell.

belt and smaller alternator pulley. puts the belt tensioner indicator in the "proper" range.

 

[Dirtleg]

@towcat I can see the benefit of a smaller alternator pulley. From what does this pulley come from?

So yesterday I had to drive over a narrow winding road over a mountain and decided it was time to address the loose steering. The loose steering made that more unpleasant than not.

I've had the parts for a while now but haven't been to concerned as I've mostly been rolling on the highway and it passed inspection.

So today I removed the existing tie rods, upper and lower, and replaced them.

Disassembling the tie rods after removal.

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I very accurately measured the center ball joint to center balljoint distance and reassembled the new tie rods to exactly the same dimensions within natural human error.

Lower tie rod going back on.

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Once it was installed I moved on to the upper.

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And here it is complete.

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New parts look out of place.

Also since my T-Handle torx bits showed up today I went ahead and adjusted the TPS sensor on the IP. It was reading 1.25v so I bumped it down to 1.2v. Transmission has been shifting better all the time but still a little hard at times. Figured it'd be wise to get the easy stuff dialed first and see if it doesn't fix it.

Unfortunately the max reading on the TPS with the throttle pegged is 3.8v so I'm thinking that's a little on the low side so the sensor probably needs to be changed out. Thinking I'll just wait till I reinstall the Moose pump assuming my new advance lever ever shows up. (hint, hint)

 

[Jason1377]

@towcat I can see the benefit of a smaller alternator pulley. From what does this pulley come from?

So yesterday I had to drive over a narrow winding road over a mountain and decided it was time to address the loose steering. The loose steering made that more unpleasant than not.

I've had the parts for a while now but haven't been to concerned as I've mostly been rolling on the highway and it passed inspection.

So today I removed the existing tie rods, upper and lower, and replaced them.

Disassembling the tie rods after removal.

You must be registered for see images attach

I very accurately measured the center ball joint to center balljoint distance and reassembled the new tie rods to exactly the same dimensions within natural human error.

Lower tie rod going back on.

You must be registered for see images attach

Once it was installed I moved on to the upper.

You must be registered for see images attach

And here it is complete.

You must be registered for see images attach

New parts look out of place.

Also since my T-Handle torx bits showed up today I went ahead and adjusted the TPS sensor on the IP. It was reading 1.25v so I bumped it down to 1.2v. Transmission has been shifting better all the time but still a little hard at times. Figured it'd be wise to get the easy stuff dialed first and see if it doesn't fix it.

Unfortunately the max reading on the TPS with the throttle pegged is 3.8v so I'm thinking that's a little on the low side so the sensor probably needs to be changed out. Thinking I'll just wait till I reinstall the Moose pump assuming my new advance lever ever shows up. (hint, hint)

How did u do alinement on your rig after you replaced your tie rod ends

 

[DaveBen]

Jack each front tire, one at a time, and spin the tire. Using a scribe, cut a line all the way around the tire. Do the same for the other tire. Lower the truck back to ground. With a friend, measure the distance between the cut lines at the rear and front of the tires. Note the measurements. You want 1/16 to 1/8th of an inch toe-in. That is 1/16 to 1/8 inch more at the rear measurement than at the front cut line. This will get you close enough to be able to drive it to an alignment shop and have them set it correctly. I set my truck to 1/8 toe in and I still am driving it many miles later with no noticeable outside tread wear.