Best location for E4OD temp sensor?

nelstomlinson

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Does anyone know where the e40d internal sensor is measuring? My aftermarket shift controller reports the temp from the internal sensor.
 

nelstomlinson

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Looks like the stock location is in the valve body, so that's probably measuring pretty close to pan temperature? There's one answer to where to put the sensor.
 

XOLATEM

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I would like to find a home-made way to keep my coffee hot...

Let's see...a 12VDC heating element and a thermocouple...

...incorporated with a steel cup fabbed up to fit a common coffee cup...

...or...a ceramic cup with inserts....

Hmm...hmm...

No ! Wait ! tap off of the heater hose and surround the cup with a copper coil....

Hmm.....

lol.. that's some hot coffee, a few degrees from water steam..

That was some earlier feedback...

I think we are on to something....


This is too easy. Build a metal holder for your coffee cup, wrap copper tubing around the outside. Then run a heater hose into each end of the copper tubing. That will keep your coffee hot enough!

Great minds think alike....

Thanks for backing me up on that one...at least I don't think that I could be some kind of crackpot...
 

XOLATEM

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My experience: I have BOILED a 4l80e on FSR’s running 4-hi 2nd gear vs 4-lo 3rd gear. The trans was literally puking fluid from everywhere underneath (vent....?) (only rad cooler at the time). I have also been been put on the side of the road at 3am on a long climb on I-40 letting the computer control my vehicle (2007 Yukon Denali 6.2/6l80)

You reminded me of a job I did on a chevy truck...it had the 4L80 and 4X4...and was equipped with an aftermarket trans temp guage.

Just as a test, and to see what would happen...I powerbraked the poor thing in the parking lot...only a few seconds...

The Temp guage needle popped up to mid range almost instantaneously...and I put it in neutral and buzzed the engine to increase flow through the cooler and see if I could get the heat back out of it...

Uhnn-unhh...no dice...temp stayed high for quite a while...

Then...my impatience, foolhardy-ness, curiousity, and determination-to-be-overlord-of-the-universe kicked in...

Guys...you know what I mean...it has happened to ALL of us at one time or another...when you ignore your common sense and you would scare snowflakes with the look that you get on your face...

I bumped it in gear and powerbraked it again....

WHOA....temp guage PEGGED....

****!!!!

I shut 'er down and let 'er sit for a few hours...

Good thing I had synthetic in it...

It only took a few seconds of that action to peg the guage...

I learned something...alright...

By the way...subsequent test drive was fine...after cooldown...scan tool data, drive feel, performance, ...all good.

I told the owner to keep a check on the guage and modify his driving accordingly and he would be fine...

P.S. The upshot on all of this is....from my experience...once you get a bunch of heat into the fluid...it takes a long time to get the heat back out of the fluid...
 
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Cubey

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P.S. The upshot on all of this is....from my experience...once you get a bunch of heat into the fluid...it takes a long time to get the heat back out of the fluid...

In my opinion, that's when deep aluminum pans can come in useful. Aluminum sheds heat faster and since it hangs lower, it gets more airflow when driving. Even if you stop and park, it should still cool down better despite the larger fluid capacity. The C6 RV B&M deep pan would cool down a lot within half an hour of sitting.

Maybe not worth the typical $300-400 prices, but if you find a good deal on a lightly used pan like I did last night ($200 for a $373 ATS pan) then maybe it'll be worth it to you.
 

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