Bad news 7.3 blown

llebhsoj

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Hello Gentlemen. First off I need to thank you all for the many quesions anwered over the years. I rarely post due to the fact that the answers are usually already on this site somewhere. So here's my latest that I need input on:
I bought a new to me 93 f350 4x4 non turbo. Nice clean truck. I spent some time and money converting it to run on VO with a very nice custom designed system (by me) and I put in some new injectors and glow plugs and changed all the fluids. I drove it around town for a couple weeks and was very happy so I took it on a maiden voyage outa town 3.5 hours. Well about 3 hours in we were purring along happy as could be when all hell broke loose under the hood with a loud racket and big puffs of smoke. As I quickly pulled over I noticed that the engine was still running and that it had zero oil pressure. I turned it off popped the hood and looked for the problem. Turned out that whatever broke inside the engine put a hole in both sides of the oil pan behind the starter and behind the oil filter. I had it towed to my families place and there she sits. My plan is to find a less that 100,000 mile replacement and trek up there and swap it out. I'd also like to fix the one that blew for later. There's a coupe of questions that I'd like answers on from you experienced fellas:
1. I've swapped the engine in my 85 and one in a 90, both times we dropped the engine in from above and its a pain. I saw another guy who took off the grill and everything else in front of the engine and basicly just slid it out the front. That way looked nice because of all the room, but is it worth it to take the whole front off?
2. The new engine I buy will likely be fully intact with fuel system and all. Is there anything I should do to it before it goes in? Are there any gaskets that I need to buy to install at the exaust? I ask this because where I will be doing the work is a long wa from the store and I need to have everything ready.
3. Is it reasonable to try and start a engine out of the truck? If so, how do you do it?

Thanks for your pointers. I'll keep you posted as to my finds on engines. I found a guy who says he has a 7.3 with 98,000 on it, but I haven't had time to talk with him yet, only text. Any questions that you all think I should ask him would also be appreciated. Thanks
 

89greendiesel

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i will comment on #1.....i think it is worth it to take the front grill and radiator supports off for a front entry just because it is always worth it to move something to make a job easier. Every single time i have done it i have been happy that i have done it. Yes, sometimes it takes 3 hours to move something to put one item on that takes 30 mins and another 3 hours to put it back. but it is still worth it everytime.

besides, when else are you going to take the front end off? do it, you'll probably be happy you did.
 

towcat

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i will comment on #1.....i think it is worth it to take the front grill and radiator supports off for a front entry just because it is always worth it to move something to make a job easier. Every single time i have done it i have been happy that i have done it. Yes, sometimes it takes 3 hours to move something to put one item on that takes 30 mins and another 3 hours to put it back. but it is still worth it everytime.

besides, when else are you going to take the front end off? do it, you'll probably be happy you did.
+1
it's worth the extra work.
get a hold of me later when you tear down the bad motor. I have a few sets of non-turbo rods and maybe a crank still kicking around. if your block isn't damaged, it's worth rebuilding if that's what you want to do.
 

icanfixall

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First off very sorry you lost the engine like that. Sounds like a rod broke. Now finding out why can make a good investigation too. May havr dropped a vlave or just snapped a rod which is very rare thing to happen. Any replacement engine you install I would tel you to replace the oil cooler o-rings just because its easy when out on the truck.. But much tuffer a job in the truck. You already have all the oil drained out and the coolant is out too. Just 8 bolts and its off the side of the engine. As posted, pulling the front clip wil make the job much easier or at least the front radiater core support. I have pulled my engine 7 times and never removed the hood...:eek: 6 of those times was in one days time. I didn't even move the hood more than it normally opens when looking under there. The last few times I removed the springs from the hood but left the hinges on. Then just leaned the hood back near the windshield and held it open with a cut and measured 2x4 in the battery box. If you remove the complete front clip you wont need to do this but if you remove only the radiater core support you can probably use the battery tray and leave the hood on. Exhaust manifold gaskets are easy to replace. Look over the replacement engine. If it has an oil pan gasket made from rubber or cork replace it with only RTV. The gaskets are not what they used in the factory. They used only rtv and it works great. It wil not leak like a gasket will.
 

gonecrazyi

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That's unfortunate. To bad your not closer. We have a rebuilt u haul motor with 27k on it.
 

llebhsoj

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So here's where I'm at... I did talk to no spark and yes he did have a 6.9 he was willing to sell. But I also found a guy in sac with a 7.3 factory turbo with 113,000 miles. It's been sitting for less than 2 years. After doing some research I found that the engines with factory turbos have some significant upgrades that seem worthwhile. I'm excited about this engine. Sorry to no spark about not buying his engine. So I am rebuilding the oil cooler, installing new gps, new valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, new Banks downpipe and whatever else you all can recommend to do prior to install would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

riotwarrior

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So here's where I'm at... I did talk to no spark and yes he did have a 6.9 he was willing to sell. But I also found a guy in sac with a 7.3 factory turbo with 113,000 miles. It's been sitting for less than 2 years. After doing some research I found that the engines with factory turbos have some significant upgrades that seem worthwhile. I'm excited about this engine. Sorry to no spark about not buying his engine. So I am rebuilding the oil cooler, installing new gps, new valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, new Banks downpipe and whatever else you all can recommend to do prior to install would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like this is the engine for you. I like your choice of service to it with oil cooler n so forth, well worth the time IMHO.

As for how to remove the engine, well that's a whole new issue.

Myself and I'm speaking for myself, I much prefer the removal of hood, and the entire front clip.

12 bolts for the clip to come off (do NOT remove rad..just shroud), 4 for the hood, and then a little bit of electrical wiring and plumbing.

Once you have the entire clip off you'll gain a whole new insight on re n re of engines! Sure, removal of rad support only works....now quadruple the access by removing the two fenders and you'll love it!

It comes down to this....access like this....
You must be registered for see images attach


Or more restrictive access, but still better than up over rad support....like this....
You must be registered for see images attach


I'll take full access every single time thank you very much!

You don't mention whether you have an auto or std so please fill in your signature too!

I hope this helps you out.

Any questions feel free to ask.

JM2CW

Al
 
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GenLightening

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I still have my 7.3 that I tore down to replace the head gaskets. It's in Minden, Nevada. I may be able to talk my dad into doing a valve job on the heads since it's apart. The rest of the motor looked fine. I just replaced it with a 6.9 that I worked on.
 

icanfixall

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Please post the factory block serial numbers located on the drivers side flat spot next to the injection pump gear cover. You may have to remove some rtv to see the ends of the numbers but its there. It will tell you this engine is a 7.3 block because its part of the number sequence. A factory turbo can be installed on any idi block be it 6.9 or 7.3. The only true way to determine if the turbo 7.3 is actually a turbo is to take the heads and pan off. The upgrade to the heads were the intruduction of the inconel exhaust valves, the bigger rods that had the 33mm wrist pins and the better oil cooler with more cooling plates. Really nothing else was changed in the turbo 7.3 idi. Same crank, cam, oil pump and intake.... These na engines can use the same crank, cam and rods in any idi thats not a factory turbo.. Makes it easy to find parts too.
 

towcat

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So here's where I'm at... I did talk to no spark and yes he did have a 6.9 he was willing to sell. But I also found a guy in sac with a 7.3 factory turbo with 113,000 miles. It's been sitting for less than 2 years. After doing some research I found that the engines with factory turbos have some significant upgrades that seem worthwhile. I'm excited about this engine. Sorry to no spark about not buying his engine. So I am rebuilding the oil cooler, installing new gps, new valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, new Banks downpipe and whatever else you all can recommend to do prior to install would be appreciated. Thanks.
i'm sitting on three turbo block cores with no intention of putting back into my fleet. why? oem turbo motors also have a propensity to chuck rods sooner than their NA cousins. teardown analysis showed a consistent failure at the wristpin area. something got left out in the engineering when they enlarged the small end of the rod. but once again.......your results may vary.
 

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