ATS 093 Turbo & SD intercooler install + exhaust recommendation

79jasper

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Something to mention here.
I remember seeing some testing somewhere on open vs "cold air," was a single power difference.
The turbo is heating the air anyways. The temp difference is negligible. You aren't really making power/under load sitting at a stop when air isn't being forced through.

Now N/A, I could agree that you want lowest possible.
But, by all means, make a box. It does look better. Be "easier" to relocate the battery, and move the filter forward. Or set it up like a 6.0. Faces forward instead of sideways.
At the bottom of the box is a big snout going into the grill area.
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03wr250f

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A engineering buddy of mine who is over on fte pointed out, along the lines of what @79jasper said is(but expounding upon) if you are intercooled cold air really doesn't make much difference. Apparently it makes 5 whp on a super car at 200mph. Now I agree cold air is always better, but if you are intercooled then you are in essence cooling the air more than the cold air intake could do.
Also good info to know that the riffraff filter is flowing that much! I always love learning new things
 

Nick382

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Going to resurrect my own thread!

The stars have aligned and I'm able to make partial progress with my install... Again! I appreciate everyone's input so far.

With respect to intake air filtration, I've decided that the 6.0 OEM assembly is not a good fit for me. It would take up a lot of space, and I've have to start relocating batteries/reservoirs etc. According to the chart on Riff Raff, the Donaldson Blue 6637 only has about 15" of water restriction while flowing 1200 CFM. Seems like 25" of H2O was the design cutoff I had read for engine air filters. That's good enough for me.

@Thewespaul suggested that I install the turbo and intercooler at the same time. I think he's right. Plus, i'm really tired of having these parts just sitting around. Outside of maintenance unrelated to the turbo parts, I've only got a few ideas I'd like to work through before I start tearing stuff apart.

The first is related to ceramic coating. While it's probably overkill for our setups, I feel like this has the most potential to be a worthwhile upgrade. Not melting my feet from the firewall, modest increase to boost, AND keeping the exhaust energy from heating up the charge air? Sign me up.

My hesitation came about when getting quotes to apply the coatings. $300 for a professionally applied coating to a set of headers probably isn't that expensive. You can buy a quart of the ceramic coating for under $150. Seems like a quart would let me coat all surfaces of the exhaust manifolds, cross over, and collector. Might even have enough to spray the exhaust elbow/downpipe.

The second concern is the CDR. I ended up finding WAY too much oil in the used intercooler than I had thought possible. I guess I'd been pretty careful about keeping it upright during transport so far. Anyway, several companies make coalescing filters that would also perform the function of the CDR. Restriction is going to be the enemy here, as excess crankcase pressure = bad day. Not nearly as exciting as free boost, but probably important for an engine with 215k miles. There doesn't seem to be a ton of people worried about this. Am I looking too far into this?
 

Ironman03R

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You have the right idea on excessive crankcase pressure, I tried a vent inio the exhaust using the cdr also. Long story short, It didn't work. The crankcase pressure went through the roof and I ended up with an engine with oil leaking from every gasket and seal.
 

bbjordan

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Ironman03R, did you use an Exhaust Check Valve? I've heard some racers use exhaust flow to generate negative crankcase pressure to make more HP.

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bbjordan

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The second concern is the CDR. I ended up finding WAY too much oil in the used intercooler than I had thought possible. I guess I'd been pretty careful about keeping it upright during transport so far. Anyway, several companies make coalescing filters that would also perform the function of the CDR. Restriction is going to be the enemy here, as excess crankcase pressure = bad day. Not nearly as exciting as free boost, but probably important for an engine with 215k miles. There doesn't seem to be a ton of people worried about this. Am I looking too far into this?

You could go with a road draft set-up. I did this with my '86. I didn't feel like having my "newly rebuilt" engine sucking nasty crankcase fumes past my turbo.
 

Nick382

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You could go with a road draft set-up. I did this with my '86. I didn't feel like having my "newly rebuilt" engine sucking nasty crankcase fumes past my turbo.
Ive got some leaky seals on the truck and I can't say that the vacuum from the intake stop them but it certainly can't hurt. Ohio doesn't have emissions testing (yet), but I might take the truck somewhere that does.

Certainly a cheap solution though. Did your truck have a lot of blow by? Mine doesn't have as much as I would expect and it worries me.

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Ironman03R

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I used the cdr as a check valve, the theory was if there was too much vacuum it would close and prevent crankcase oil being drawn into the exhaust. It ended up being closed more than it should have been and caused excessive crankcase pressure. I started out with just a rdt but the blowby was excessive and looked like my truck was on fire at a stop.
On the tear down I found every piston was cracked so had I not had so much blowby the idea may have worked
 

Thewespaul

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I used the cdr as a check valve, the theory was if there was too much vacuum it would close and prevent crankcase oil being drawn into the exhaust. It ended up being closed more than it should have been and caused excessive crankcase pressure. I started out with just a rdt but the blowby was excessive and looked like my truck was on fire at a stop.
On the tear down I found every piston was cracked so had I not had so much blowby the idea may have worked
Where did you have them crack? Around the valve reliefs?
 

Thewespaul

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Interesting, Im assuming you had an egt gauge and it always stayed within safe temps? Usually high egts melts down the top of the piston near the valve recess and down the skirt.
 

Ironman03R

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I can't lie I ran the hell outta that truck! It's been a long time but 1250 on the pyro was not uncommon, think I maxed out about 15psi and ran it up to 240 a time or too.
 

Nick382

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24 psi of boost on an IDI? Seems kinda risky to me! I figured a boost controller cut off at 10 psi seemed safe.

I didn't spring for studs or anything too exciting. Seems like you guys have hurt some motors feelings.

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