Aluminum radiator upgrade

Big Bart

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A couple years ago I weighed the the expenses. For me it was a couple of things.
1) Original radiator made it 30 years. Many suggested that might look like +3 aluminum replacements.
2) Often the need for alterations to make It work. Drilling, fans, ground straps, etc.
3) Many disappointed with poor build quality. Bent, out of square, leaking due to poorly machined rad cap hole.
4) Never hear about folks overheating with a working copper rad, Motorcraft thermostat, and correct coolant mix.

So I decided although about double, I would rebuild. So far very happy I did. I had zero issues upon install, zero issues after while pulling 9k lbs. To me the cooling system is not a place to roll the dice. Overheat the engine and your talking much more than a couple hundred dollars. I had a good option to rebuild others may not and will need to go with seems like the only new replacement program of aluminun.

See thats interesting. So the aftermarket aluminum radiators utilize a better design than the original factory radiators. Also - The brazing. Are they in fact brazed or are they soldered? It was my understanding that they were soldered. Reason being is that silver is an extremely common brazing medium for copper and silver is far superior to copper with regards to...literally everything except cost. Silver brazed joints would yield superior heat transfer when compared to any other type of connection. Soldered joints however would not as the solder is most likely a Tin alloy.

Also - is it being compared that a copper/brass radiator from the early 90s has the same cooling as a brand new aluminum radiator? Those are not apples to apple comparisons, although given the fact that brand new copper radiators dont really exist to my knowledge, then functionally speaking, that is the only comparison that really matters.

Again though, I dont see why an all copper radiator could not be made and am curious what the cost would look like.
ISPKI

We should not assume that a new core is not a redesign, different sized tubes and fins, or using newer metal blends. My néw core could be better than the one from 1988. But could also be the same or worse. Something to look at.
 

OlKoot

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The trailer i built in Sept, the wiring was all crimped metal connectors,save he 3 wire connections which were soldered, heat shrinked all connections, and wrapped with electricl tape. Thats a good point. Keep them dry
 

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OlKoot

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Thats a fair statmnt everyone has different experiances, as an Automotive mechanc/technician, experiance dictates to try new things, here colder temps, rad shops are farther away and would be charging me over 500 $ to rebiuld, and this time of year and i need it done sooner than later.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Another issue with solder and the primary reason why I recommend people use mechanical crimp joints when doing electrical anywhere outside the cab. Solder has a major tendency to attract moisture and propagate corrosion. Probably yet another factor that contributes to the failure of soldered copper/brass radiators.
Wow this is news to me. I always thought I was going the extra mile by soldering, and never thought to research whether crimping is better. After some googling (not that I don’t trust you) you’re 100% right. I’m always learning new stuff on this forum, thanks!
 

OlKoot

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If i was using an original Diesel Ford, id stay with the factory radiator. But, this 1970 ford, has been upgraded and custom built. I have seen the mods needed for that radiator fitted in my narrow framed truck, but notching the frame, to do it, isnt an option for me right now. ive had this idi diesel in this truck since 2003, and the 6.9, was replaced with the 7.3 round 2005. The factory rad rebuilt in 2012, so, many firsts.
 

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OlKoot

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Im running a 73 Buick Centurian steeing box, and cross over steering, makes for a tight fit for the bottom of the radiator. This new ra idea, makes for aa better fit. And, a 3 core, is supplying enough volume for what i use this truck for. Ill add an extra volume tank if needing more volume. And front mounted electric fans if neeed. See he notch, i had done years back, trying to get away from that as well.
 

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ISPKI

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Wow this is news to me. I always thought I was going the extra mile by soldering, and never thought to research whether crimping is better. After some googling (not that I don’t trust you) you’re 100% right. I’m always learning new stuff on this forum, thanks!
Thats awesome! I get all warm and fuzzy when I am actually useful to someone. There are solders that prevent that feature, usually high silver content used with specific types of flux but its not the kind of stuff found at normal stores. A good crimp tool with a sleeve of heat shrink and maybe a dab of liquid tape to seal it in is usually more than sufficient.
 

OlKoot

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Im using a solder, used on circuit boards, cant remember the number. Ill se if i canfid it, it always flowed better, and durable
 
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OlKoot

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Heres an oldylate 30's IH, notice the brass fine threaded cap big tubes and lots of solder. Silver solder no doubt.
 

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Paul Petraitis

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Biting the bullit on this , and ordered an Aluminum Radiator, a Champian brand. Ordered it yesterday. My 1970 F-350 has used a brass rad for years but, the last repair didnt take well. Upper tank leaking at the seam. Rad shops around here , a canadian border town arent always up to the task, or, cost a lot. For 305$ US shipped, i cant do better here getting it rebuilt. Its a 3 core i ordered. Im running a 7.3, idi, but still believe this will handle the cooling I need. And, i can add fans if needed. Im using the factory clutch fan, which pulls a lot of air.
Just remember to check the radiator cap of the the new radiator. Mine was overheating like hell til realized the new cap was 18 pounds and mine ran a 12 pound!
 

OlKoot

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I will thanks. Its supposed to have a 13 pound cap. A 16 lb cap is typical for an 83-94 diesel, by the way. Also, for my installation an overflow bottle
 
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OlKoot

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I ordered the wrong radiator so its on its way back. I ordered a cc395, instead of a cc433. A result of to many tabs open, anxiety of using my left side of my brain, and just plane age. to small, width wise especially. I ordered a 3 core, minium. to make up for being 5 inches shorter than my old rad. once im credited, ill re order. It happens
 

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