NeverHave-I-Ether
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This is pretty cool, what type of pump and price?
Actually retrieving WMO
- Thread starter PossumTruck
- Start date
leswhitt
Full Access Member
It's a Harbor Freight model that I picked up a number of years ago and still starts on the first or second pull. I mated up some gator quick couplings so I can swap between hoses and it's been a reliable setup.
Mt_Man
Full Access Member
Mine is a Wilden m2 1" aluminum with buna internals. Buna is good enough for most petroleum products. The rep said to not let 100LL sit there on buna. So I flush it out with some oil after pumping that stuff. Another trick for servicing is to turn it up side down and run it for a while and that will get most of the fluid out. Plastic pumps should work good too. All the diaphragm manufactures have documents of their pumps and compatability to various fluids and particle size that it can pass.
So pumping in warm weather its faster. Everything is less viscous. So Atf will pump a barrel in about 5min. Which is about 11 gpm. Jeta/100LL pump like water so probably 15gpm. 50wt oil its slows down to 30-45min per 275gal. I also don't run it the 100psi limit. I pump at a steady rate that sounds good. usually around 10-40psi. Thin stuff with to much pressure it will flutter around and sound funny. Plus its really fast. I am usually not in that great of a hurry.
Cold weather. Slower. 50wt takes long time. The pneumatic parts tend to freeze up and so if I am out side I use hot water or a torch. But use a torch is at your own risk. Just move it around till it pumps again. Not really making it warm. Caution is need for flame and the vapors of what your pumping obviously. I try to thin all my stuff so it pumps a tote of wmo in about 25-35min. I can now tell when the pump changes speed I know how good the fuel is or if its got a bunch of water at the bottom.
I have QC filter setup up with differential pressure gauges and it seems to do one for one as far as pressure. 20psi air equals 20psi pump so be careful not to blow a hoses. I have pressure rated hoses and clamps. I never get over 60psi but problem free.
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I attached some manuals for my pump. It has a chart for pressure vs flow which is neat. I attach a peice of mesh over the end to keep from sucking up solid bits that would jam up the check balls. (silicone, washers, bolts) 1/8in x 1/8in hardware cloth(mesh). If it gets clogged up just replace with new chunk or blow it out with air gun of the trash. I don't have a picture, but can when I get home on the 1st of April.
my pumps manual: "wilden m2 metal"
https://www.psgdover.com/docs/defau...l-and-plastic-pump-(m2).pdf?sfvrsn=5f619b96_4
user guide for wilden pumps general
https://allpumps.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/wilden-pump-users-guide.pdf
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Mt_Man
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got any clips of it in action?
Mt_Man
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https://www.multiquip.com/multiquip/MQD3H.htm
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Anyone thought about using one of these? With he proper diaphragm should work okay. Says it can do 90gpm. But if it's think even 45gpm and gas powered would be okay with me. Been kicking this idea around for a while.leswhitt
Full Access Member
No but I'll have to get some after I install the new hose and get it setup like I want.
Brian Wagner
Registered User
Mt.Man you strike me as a feller with a conscience and a brain. You made some very good points in your reply and lets hope that folks heed them. My hat is off to you sir. Brian WagnerMost shops have compressed air and I use a double diaphragm pump I scored off Craigslist moons ago. They are able to pass some particles and pump thick stuff. Colder months it freezes up but I just poor hot water on it if I am outside. But it never get tired. I carry both style of air connectors. I put some mesh over the pick up tube so it keeps the big stuff out. Amazon or ebay have them for cheap now. If you do suck something up that jams up one of the check balls they are easy to disassemble and clean out. If the shop doesn't have air then I bring my gas compressor. Also put a ball valve on the airline and have two airlines. This is so you can control the speed of the pump and cut the air when it is time to switch containers. This setup allows you to stand next to the container while filling and watch it. They do gravity syphon if you filling a small container lower then your source.
For transporting. Barrels are the best for being inconspicuous. I used to swap out barrels and role them up on ramps into a trailer or pickup. But that is heavy. They are relatively easy to handle full after some practice. Also easy to pump into and suck out of. I like totes now but still use barrels. If they have a forklift then its easy to load with the forks. Or swap totes out. I like to pump cause then its already presettled if you don't suck off the bottom.
Others have said this before. Some rules to think of as part of the "oil club"
-no spills. Be clean, if you show up like a hobo and leave a mess it leaves a bad impression on all of us.
-no spills
-never walk away while you are pumping. if something is going bad you are there to catch it before it gets really bad. That being said have a fast enough pump so that your not temped to walk away. If you have to walk away always shut things down so they can't go bad.
-Have stuff to clean up a mess. Spill kit
-be respectful and professional. They are giving you oil for free a lot of the time. Most of the time they are more then happy to work with you and really accommodating.
-bring thank you treats; donuts/pizza/tacos. Not going to break the bank sense you are saving money using their oil. I would show up around lunch time at one friend's shop and hang out when I would bring food.
Hopefully this is helpful and welcome, cheers
leswhitt
Full Access Member
I was intrigued until I saw the sprice tag of $2k. For the value, I'll stick with a trash pump since it'll move more oil for a fraction of the cost. Other than replacing the pump gasket and cleaning the carb after it sat for 5 years, I haven't done a thing to it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-...i8u5UlBUzrusTuqECWBlutJZIQ9m6OshoCnPwQAvD_BwE
Mt_Man
Full Access Member
Agreed the price tag is high but the used market is quite reasonable. Get one cheap and fix it up. I found a couple around me for under 300. Called the manufacturer and the engineers say the diaphragm is a nitrile- buna-n material. That means it would handle most petroleum and lots of other. They did say the pump isn't rated for pumping flammable stuff, just a water slurry pump. But the diaphragm stuff should hold up to most petroleum stuff. A buddy I work with did some work in the oil fields and he said he saw them used all over pumping all sorts of stuff around.
Yah sounds like you pump was definitely the right price, sounds awesome! That's I had to do for my gas air compressor. Spark plug and carb clean.
Does yours prime easy? Some of the trash pumps I have used don't like to prime. Do you run a check valve at the end of suction hose?
Mt_Man
Full Access Member
5/8inch solids can go through your pump, most impressive!
leswhitt
Full Access Member
I'm going to start watching the used market for a diaphragm pump, thanks for the tip. Mine is easy to prime but rarely needs it so no check valve for me...not to mention a check valve would restrict flow and I use a 2" piece of PVC pipe as my hose wand to move fluid as quickly as possible. On the rare occasions it does need to be primed, I either remove the plug on top of the pump and fill it manually or use my small 1" hoses since it'll self-prime with that size rather easily.
Mt_Man
Full Access Member
Yah makes sense. That is what I have done with water. Just winding about oil. Guess it would prime easy if it is below the source. Groovy!
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
We typically load an empty tote on my flatbed along with our 1.5" HF trash pump, hoses, and suction wand that fits drums/totes. Works great. You can see the pump and such near the end of this video...
We also have several outfits that let us place a tote and they fill the tote. When it's full, they call us... load it up with a forklift and we drop an empty. In and out in 10 minutes.
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We also have several outfits that let us place a tote and they fill the tote. When it's full, they call us... load it up with a forklift and we drop an empty. In and out in 10 minutes.
thanks for sharing, I am running a pressure fuge from PA Biodiesel but want to go to a single pass set up like you have. Can you give me some general idea of how large the rotor is in diameter and height? I am thinking about using a modified drum brake on a cut off axle shaft to make the rotor. I can machine out the center of the axle on my lathe to fit on a electric motor. I figure this should not be very ******* my lathe.
Mt_Man
Full Access Member
Large torque converters are usually the choice for fuges since they are already balanced and generally the right shape. There are a bunch of people that are making diy fuges now. Brake drums would be balanced and heavier. It would be easy to close up. Interesting idea. How were you going to orient it? I was going to build a second fuge and my buddy was going to cut it on his lathe and then re-weld it for me. A torque converter rebuild shop quoted me $200 (i think that is what they said) to cut gut and reweld.
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