88 f250 saved from savage nature

[wrecked]

It appears the fuel return line is blocked. The line keeps popping off one or another return cap fitting and only with higher revs, aka higher bypass. I tried to blow down the return line at the 4 way but it's plugged tight. Quick question: if the key is off is there some kind of valve that closes in the return circuit? Maybe at the tank selector? Haven't tried while engine is running for obvious reasons... Thing is it's running flawlessly...

edit: Just found a thread on this very subject. One tank selector valve coming up.
But a further question arises... The amount of flow back to the tank is likely not enough to actually heat the fuel, so why couldn't a fella just plumb the return into the line before the lift pump with a T? I might do that until a new FSV arrives. (Parts take ages to get out here on the frozen wastelands, longer since VIRUS!

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[IDIBRONCO]

Quick question: if the key is off is there some kind of valve that closes in the return circuit? Maybe at the tank selector?

Assuming that nobody added something "exotic" into your fuel system, the answers are no and no. The only valve in the return lines is the FSV which works off of the selector switch on the dash. All that does is to direct fuel into one tank or the other. It doesn't shut off the fuel flow. Instead of trying to tie into your engine supply, why don't you try to run a temporary return line from the engine to one of the fuel tanks and then only run off of that tank until your new FSV comes in?

 

[ttman4]

A little note about the twin heavy yellow wires feeding the GPs......
A better solution is to do what ford eventually did in '92 and replace those two wires going through the connector with one heavy 6awg (4awg is better) wire. It goes directly from the positive post at the starter solenoid on the fender (where the two yellow wires start and are now blk /w org stripe I think) ..............


About the oil pressure gauge upgrade. Since our engines run a low pressure constant volume system to begin with, .........Here's some good info about that valve and the oil system in general:
http://diezelcrazeesidipage.homestead.com/oilregulatingvalve1.html

aggie, Couple of pretty good tips on your post here.
And especially your link with Dave 001's awesome write-up he did on the Lubricating Oil Pump, Oil Filter, & Oilcooler & how it all works!!!

Worth saving, but my problem, I've saved soooo much stuff over time in my puter I never know where I saved it!!! Even having things all in order, I still lose stuff!

I have in the past played round with Oil Pressure Regulating Valve, dismantled, cleaned, added a washer, etc, etc on couple other rigs I used to have

Anyway, thought I'd let you know was very good tips here, & Im gonna print off Dave 001's write-up & stick it in my IHC Service Manual!!

 

[TNBrett]

But a further question arises... The amount of flow back to the tank is likely not enough to actually heat the fuel, so why couldn't a fella just plumb the return into the line before the lift pump with a T?

If you just plumbed the return back into the inlet of the lift pump, any air that made its way into the fuel system wouldn’t get purged out. It would just keep getting circulated through the system.


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[IDIBRONCO]

It also seems like it would be asking for trouble. You keep adding more fuel to the system, but what isn't used by the engine can't get back out of the system. It seems like you'd still be building pressure in your return lines.

 

[wrecked]

You guys are way ahead of me as usual... Opted to simply bypass the TSV using pushloc connectors and 3/8 plastic line I have been packing around for 20+ years. The rear tank still leaks (grrr) so it's just the front return bypassed, which makes things easier. But while rolling about under there I noticed this:

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Good thing I haven't exceeded 1500lbs -- by much... Figure on removing a section of the stretched steel on top, flattening it out with a porta-pack etc, gouging it out mightily and stick- welding it to all blazes. Then weld doublers on the top and side. The other side is fine so it must have endured some kinda shock load to do that much injury on just the left side frame rail.

Maybe the old beggar high centred on something? First time I've seen a frame crack top down...

 

[Farmer Rock]

You guys are way ahead of me as usual... Opted to simply bypass the TSV using pushloc connectors and 3/8 plastic line I have been packing around for 20+ years. The rear tank still leaks (grrr) so it's just the front return bypassed, which makes things easier. But while rolling about under there I noticed this:

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Good thing I haven't exceeded 1500lbs -- by much... Figure on removing a section of the stretched steel on top, flattening it out with a porta-pack etc, gouging it out mightily and stick- welding it to all blazes. Then weld doublers on the top and side. The other side is fine so it must have endured some kinda shock load to do that much injury on just the left side frame rail.

Maybe the old beggar high centred on something? First time I've seen a frame crack top down...

That is mind boggling right there!



Rock

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'd fish plate the outside too. Just for extra piece of mind.

 

[wrecked]

Another change of plan: I've fired myself as welder — with extreme prejudice — and will be utilizing the services of an actual welder, rather than some ***** smelling jackarse with a bean too fat fer double doors. That repair is a one-off, no second chances so a couple hunney won't go amiss. Fortunately there's a feller what did heavy logging equipment welding in these here parts, who's sorely in need of a beer fund now the commies have trashed the lumber industry. Happy to enable his vice in this instance but I draw the line at the weird things he is known for, involving young, supple saplings...

Lurid photos of naked frame members to follow at some point.

 

[ttman4]

— and will be utilizing the services of an actual welder,

Maybe a little JB Weld too???

I'd fish plate the outside too. Just for extra piece of mind.

Yes fish plate that frame!!
Where in the frame is that crack? Ex: Like under the cab, or back toward rear axle?
Back in the '70s I lengthened the frame on a '75 Freightliner, couple of KW's, & couple of Pete's. Welded in the extra section, dressed up, then fish plated it.
The plates I made were diamond shaped somewhat. What I mean, like on your crack, maybe 2" or so along the top horizonal, then come down at 45* 1/2 way, then back at 45* toward bottom, then 2" horizonal along bottom, then back up at 45*, then another 45*back toward top.
Anyway my reasoning is that way the welds aren't so much totally vertical or horizonal, & can flex a bit more.

Your welder as well as others on here probably heck lots more smarter welders than me!!!!~ And can explain circles round me!! hahaha & probably got LOTS & LOTS better ideas!!

 

[wrecked]

Thanks for the sound advice. I'll be sure to ask for some extra fishy welding...
The crack is just forward of the tank selector valve, also just forward of the back of the cab. My buddy what knows his way around virtually everything heavy duty reckons it occurred when they plucked the factory box off, but there's a healthy dent directly below the crack and that suspiciously stretched steel on top that also show striations under the lip.

My thinking is... that should read, the two remaining brain cells that survived the 1970s suspect either a substantial log, beam or possibly steel pipe (it was a lower mainland plumbers truck for two years) literally polevaulted the truck from underneath somehow -- probably on a construction site. The outfit in question did high rise and large commercial development type plumbing so anything is possible. I've drilled a 1/4" crack stopper which should keep things kosher until the welder sobers up a bit.

Hey, is the mechanical lift pump a pass-through type? I ask because I'm again toying with the idea of a small electric pump in front of the tank selector, just to prime things a bit when very cold and I forgot the block heater. I'm still getting air somewhere and a few seconds on the facet should take the strain off the starter somewhat.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's not the best idea although it is a pass through pump. The pressure from the e pump can rupture the diaphragm in the mechanical one. I have the same set up on my Blue Truck but, I only use to to bleed the air out of the system when I put a new fuel filter on. That is a seldom used feature. It usually sits there doing nothing, but did save my bacon one time when my mechanical pump went out. What you're talking about doing would be something that's used relatively often. I'll also mention that my electric is a cheap, low pressure pump that's probably rated at 5-9 PSI.

 

[aggiediesel01]

Hey, is the mechanical lift pump a pass-through type? I ask because I'm again toying with the idea of a small electric pump in front of the tank selector, just to prime things a bit when very cold and I forgot the block heater. I'm still getting air somewhere and a few seconds on the facet should take the strain off the starter somewhat.

I second what idibronco said. Search this site for a post from @Selahdoor that describes how he installed a little pump in parallel to the lift pump with some wyes and check valves so they can both contribute or either one can.

 

[wrecked]

Sorry for the delay. Took the advice and hunted air a bit more. Blocked return fiasco damaged the o-rings under the caps. Easy fix but I've got more to do yet as I find time. Find new leaks each check! Starting better though.

 

[wrecked]

Hey you crazy campers! The following motivated me to try something rash:

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The brain cells recoiled in horror and programed the following solution into my fire control systems:

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Sorry for the mess but it's still in prototype stage. That rats nest will be controlled by the following, an item I salvaged from a long since departed Bluewater sailboat:

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The punchline is it works! I can see bubbles being unceremoniously shoved down the temporary "clear" fuel line installed here:

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Just put the whole bodge-up to the test and she clattered to life almost immediately, at the now scorching temperature of -36!
(All temperatures in degrees Celsius, or eleventy billion degrees)

Man I love when it actually works...

Edit: I should have mentioned the truck had been on the boiling coolant reactor all night. The opposite side of the block was a toasty +5 degrees.

Edit x 2: I have discovered one of my newish walfart gr. 31s is a weak sister. It takes extreme cold to bring out the worst in things, which I view as a positive in one respect... One more big flaw removed from the cluster-truck.