88 f250 saved from savage nature

[wrecked]

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Ha ha! Got it...

 

[wrecked]

Is this it?

That is a low pressure line so I don't think there would be a big problem with improvising. If it were me, I'd try to keep the original (it lasted well enough). But if you're stuck and can't wait to order parts, might as well raid the hardware bin at the parts store.

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BTW, that pic is better than live... I got it.

 

[wrecked]

Oh, and befur anybody starts sayin Im smart... I aint. But I seen a feller in Grant Fairy what showd it once.

 

[wrecked]

I forgetted... The oil "pressure" gauge is startin to work, sorta... the foodtube says it was a dumb gauge only, showin 0-5 psi as an on/off switch at start, but mine is startin to show momentary increases and drops while runnin. Seems better than dumb and possibly mildly retarded.

 

[wrecked]

or the engine is hooped.... If yes dont tell me. Dumb is as dumb does.

 

[wrecked]

I swear on a stack of nuns I wont say much...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

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Ha ha! Got it...

Cool.

 

[david85]

I forgetted... The oil "pressure" gauge is startin to work, sorta... the foodtube says it was a dumb gauge only, showin 0-5 psi as an on/off switch at start, but mine is startin to show momentary increases and drops while runnin. Seems better than dumb and possibly mildly retarded.

Fuel, oil pressure and temp all seem to read high in unison at least once a day on my truck. Smack the dash and they go back to "normal" for the rest of the day. I found the same info about an integral voltage regulator on the back of the cluster that goes wonky but never found a permanent fix. I did a frame-off on the rest of the truck, but apparently couldn't figure that part out.

Instead, I just smack my truck in the dash every time I ride it. It trained me well.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Fuel, oil pressure and temp all seem to read high in unison at least once a day on my truck. Smack the dash and they go back to "normal" for the rest of the day. I found the same info about an integral voltage regulator on the back of the cluster that goes wonky but never found a permanent fix. I did a frame-off on the rest of the truck, but apparently couldn't figure that part out.

Instead, I just smack my truck in the dash every time I ride it. It trained me well.

From my observations, it's normal with Dent Sides and Bull Noses. I just learned to live with it.

 

[wrecked]

Copy that. My idle speed is greatly affected by carefully positioned swats on the dash. At least according to the tach anyway. Sounds exactly the same, but it's gotta be true if it says so... I absolutely love this truck.

 

[aggiediesel01]

Finally getting to the manual GP switch install and noticed something...

Is that the oil pressure sender centre pic? And if so, I saw a boobtube how-to on switching that idiot sensor for a merely mentally challenged one that gives pressure readings if I solder in a jumper on the back of the cluster oil gauge.

Edit: forgot to ask... If I follow the how-to found here:
https://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm
how many amps will be passing through the wiring? (Albeit for 10 seconds max) The factory stuff appears to be 18g, which is what I'm hoping to use.

A little note about the twin heavy yellow wires feeding the GPs. They pass through the main engine harness connector and are famous for over heating that connection and at a minimum melting or ruining that connector. I suggest that you at least disconnect and clean and lube the engine harness connector to help those wires pass all the current they can out to your GP system. A better solution is to do what ford eventually did in '92 and replace those two wires going through the connector with one heavy 6awg (4awg is better) wire. It goes directly from the positive post at the starter solenoid on the fender (where the two yellow wires start and are now blk /w org stripe I think) follows the alternator harness up to the alternator, turns left at the fuel filter and follows the engine harness back to the GP relay. This little addition delivers more current to the GPs which is less voltage drop which makes for quicker heating and longer lasting GPs.

Both the wires you have and the upgrade wire ford did in '92 have short circuit protection in the form of Fusable Link wire at the post of the starter relay. If you choose not to use the fusable link wire, you should consider some kind of short circuit protection in the form of a fuse or breaker or other device to protect the wire feeding the GPs against a short circuit.

About the oil pressure gauge upgrade. Since our engines run a low pressure constant volume system to begin with, most of the guys I've read about in the past that have done this say they probably wouldn't do it again. Their comments were that the gauge sweeps a great deal with engine RPM and and temperature and since there aren't any numbers on the gauge it's kind of not helpful. When these engines are cold oil pressure can be over 50psi but once it warms up it can be as low as 9psi and still be good to go. The oil volume is regulated by the bypass valve in the filter header that dumps excess volume back to the sump so if you are concerned about oil flow in the engine you should rebuild the oil cooler and make sure that valve is moving freely and clean. And then you know if your gauge ever reads zero then you do actually have a problem. Here's some good info about that valve and the oil system in general:

http://diezelcrazeesidipage.homestead.com/oilregulatingvalve1.html

 

[aggiediesel01]

Here’s the little voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. It makes contact through a the series of basically wiper contacts so removing it and cleaning those areas would probably help it quite a bit.

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[wrecked]

I'm very grateful for the very sage advice. To cut to the chase, I've moved past using existing wiring for the GPs (a literal rats/mouse/squirrels nest of faults) and am putting together something mostly stand alone, making use of only those circuits after the controller -- aka the factory relay to the GPs which I have passed as good.

I'm plumbing up a keyed, relayed and fused momentarily switched trigger circuit to the factory relay, which I know works to spec. I've become convinced the harness connector(!) or the relay controller (or both) are hooped, and I do not have a fuel problem at all. (No air whatsoever in the clear line I installed for troubleshooting after several runs) It simply starts right away and idles beautifully after just one hour on the kettle. I would expect some sort of irregularity even with the toaster if I had appreciable air intrusion, no?

So I'm back to glow plugs, of which I only have 7 until spring when the manifold comes off and the broken GP comes out.

This truck has started quickly, without GPs, when the temp was above 5-10c. I may have been chasing my tail with fuel issues. Chasing myriad other leaks too...

I love this truck!

 

[wrecked]

Here’s the little voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. It makes contact through a the series of basically wiper contacts so removing it and cleaning those areas would probably help it quite a bit.

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You have no idea how much this helps! The wiper circuit was dead and I bypassed it, but clues, clues, clues! I'm pulling the main harness connector or be damned...

 

[wrecked]

Just don't be surprised if it takes a while for results... I'm up to my armpits in sleds. Damned fools use regular gas spiked with booze like zombies. Cheap good! Keeps the wife in fine attire though.