7.3 head gasket prep

Va_Mike

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I have the old gasket scraped off and used a gasket stripper. But after two applications of the stripper there is still old graphite gasket material on the block and heads. Is it safe to use a brass wire wheel at low speed to clean the rest of the graphite off? The brass should be soft enough that it won't damage the machined cast iron sealing surface.

Thoughts?

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Va_Mike

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I normally do too. But I'm in a location where I don't have access to a compressor that can run my angle grinder. I guess I could try to run the Rolex disk in the drill.
 

IDIBRONCO

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All I have are medium (brown scotch bright) pads. Will that be to course?
Nope. I use them often. The key to using them is to keep the pad moving. A drill won't cause damage as fast as an angle grinder will though. Also make sure to clean up really well after using them. They tend to have material flake off, unlike a Roloc pad.
 

Va_Mike

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I can flush the coolant side to remove debris but I'm worried about the oil side. The outer two small holes just below the outer (or rather front and back ) head bolts are the oil ports correct? I want to plug them before using the pads to clean the deck.
 

IDIBRONCO

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From your description, those should be the oil drain back holes. Be sure to lay something across the valley to keep as much crap out of there as possible. I use shop rags or even paper towels. You will get a little bit in there, but I wipe it out the best I can by using some carb or brake cleaner on a rag.
 

Va_Mike

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So the holes with the blue tape pointing to them are the oil drain back passages? I have the valley covered. Anything else to cover before I make a mess?

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IDIBRONCO

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Without having one to look at, I have to say yes. I don't remember if you said or not, but now would be a good time to do the 7.3 cooling mod.
 

nelstomlinson

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The 6.9 cooling mod is where we take out the plugs in the holes below and toward the center of the engine from the blue tape in that photo, right?
 

IDIBRONCO

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There and the corresponding ones in the heads. Then you have to use 6.9 head gaskets. I just wish I would have thought of enlarging the holes in the 6.9 gaskets like Wes did. I'll know next time.
 

Macrobb

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My personal method, which works fine but is probably not recommended:
Good old steel wire wheel. Works like a charm; won't noticeably affect the cast iron surface(may round edges slightly), but will take everything off it. (Note: steel wire wheels are kind of rough on aluminum bits, though I've still done it... try to keep the pistons below where you are working). Try to keep as much stuff out of the engine as possible - especially wire bits.
Then, when it's all together, change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles or so, to get all the crud that was picked up out.
 
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