7.3 build

[rustygold]

I'm going to be tearing down is there any upgrades that is a must. Not looking at upgrade to much just cam and injectors and exhaust valves. But from a stock point anything that needs to be done to make a longer lasting build.

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[IDIBRONCO]

By "exhaust valves" are you including the guides too? If not, be sure to have those upgraded to bronze liners. That helps to eliminate the valve guides wearing so much.

 

[rustygold]

Ok. I seen someone talking about a cooling mod on the back of the head and block. Does it help or its in differ on it. I like to keep equal cooling across the head. IDI would be awesome revised cooling.

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[IDIBRONCO]

Ok. Yes and no. It's not on the back of the head and block, it's on the top of the block and the bottom of the head. This is only for the 7.3, the 6.9 already has this from the factory. When you look at the surface of the block where the head mounts on (looking from the side of the engine) towards the bottom front and bottom back corners of the head/block, the 6.9 has an extra coolant port on each corner that isn't there on the 7.3. Basically, the mod is adding a coolant port in these locations. I was wrong, the 6.9 head gasket does not have plastic inserts in these corners, the inserts are metal with a rubber seal around them. You put these in the properly shaped holes in the head gaskets before you install the heads. These have a small hole in them to let the coolant through. The purpose of this mod is not really to make your coolant temps lower (although I'm sure it will somewhat), it's to prevent steam from building up in these locations when under a lot of boost and heat. The steam expands faster and with more pressure than liquid does. This steam build up can actually raise the head a few thousandths of an inch and cause your head gaskets to blow out. Icanfixall said that you can use the 6.9 head gaskets instead of the 7.3 gaskets for this application. Apparently on some 7.3s, you nave to drill this hole into the heads and block, but on mine, there's actually soft plugs installed in these spots. Instead of removing them like he suggested, I'm just going to drill a hole in them. It seems easier to me. If you're going to be pulling hard, then by all means, do this mod. I'm not even planning to pull that hard. I have NO idea of why the cooling systems are different between the two engines. I don't even have a guess. If I didn't explain it very well, you could PM Icanfixall and he could probably explain it better than I can. Heck, I don't even want to try to fix all, just what's mine.

 

[rustygold]

I understand that makes perfect sense. I just know the last two cylinders tend to run hotter than the rest. Didn't know about super heating with the turbo making the steam to lift the head up.

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[snicklas]

The theory of the collective, in the 7.3 the injectors were raised slightly in the head (not as deep in the pre-cup) and these coolant passages were plugged, for emissions purposes. These ports being plugged make the heads run hotter for a better burn, but when working the engine hard, the heat builds quicker than the limited cooling can remove. This is part of where the coolant temp spike comes from. Plus with the pre-cups in the head, and the combustion process starts there, a lot of the heat from that stays in the heads, unlike a DI diesel, where the combustion process is inside the cylinder only and more of the combustion heat is removed via the exhaust.

I've also heard of a few guys "back in the day" that would make 6.9's into "fire breathing dragon" as least for that timeframe, but wouldn't touch a 7.3. I wonder if part of that was because of cooling...... Also, it seems most having issues with cooling a turned up IDI are 7.3's but I made be wrong.......

 

[Mike_42]

Are you doing a turbo? If you plan on 15-20psi, stud it while its out. Much easier.

 

[rustygold]

I have a stock turbo just put on 6 months ago highest I seen it go was 8 to 10 psi. But under heavy load slow acceleration 6 psi.

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[OLDBULL8]

I have a stock turbo just put on 6 months ago highest I seen it go was 8 to 10 psi. But under heavy load slow acceleration 6 psi.

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That sounds about right on your boost PSI.
Boost is contingent on, the size of the turbo, down pipe size (3"), exhaust pipe size (3"), leaks in the turbo pipe input, the engine load plus RPM. There is updates on compressor wheels depending on what Brand turbo you have.

 

[morgankshaw]

I have a stock turbo just put on 6 months ago highest I seen it go was 8 to 10 psi. But under heavy load slow acceleration 6 psi.

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Mines a 7.3 with a non wastegated ats kit. The old kit from the 90's. And mine is about the same as you described. I chased down a few boost leaks and instead of building more pressure the boost just seems to come on earlier.
I wonder how much difference a stock turbo with a wastegate would make?


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[Mike_42]

I have a stock turbo just put on 6 months ago highest I seen it go was 8 to 10 psi. But under heavy load slow acceleration 6 psi.

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Thats about what I get with my 088, no biggie there. If your sure you will stay with that turbo then they aren't needed, but if you ever think you may go with better turbo/more fuel in the future. I would just do em now.


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[rustygold]

That sounds about right on your boost PSI.
Boost is contingent on, the size of the turbo, down pipe size (3"), exhaust pipe size (3"), leaks in the turbo pipe input, the engine load plus RPM. There is updates on compressor wheels depending on what Brand turbo you have.

I have a ford fatory turbo but don't have the stock down pipe. I know it's 2.25 or 2.5 at the vband and 3 at the bottom. When I put the turbo on I was like hell no to the fatory down pipe. It gets so narrow. I did wrap the crossover pipe up pipe and downpipe and factory heat shielding tin and reflect wrap on the fire wall.

I just want out of this build a happy middle for my pocket and motor. I know if is all stock it's doesn't cost much ans it's reliable. Performance to much cost and unreliable.

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