4x4 H gets skipped...

Zaggnutt

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Okay, so here's what I found... I put the truck all the way back into what should be 4H and checked the driveshaft...not engaged. Put shifter into 4L and checked driveshaft... engaged. So then I shifted back to 2wd and pulled back to the spot where it feels like it catches which is actually a little different then originally posted, it is more like half way between 2wd and where 4H SHOULD be. There is a place in the middle where the shifter catches. I shifted to that point, got under truck and turned driveshaft... engaged!

This is 2wd
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This is where 4H should be
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This is 4L
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Now this is that spot that it engages in between 2wd and 4H...
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Zaggnutt

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Still think this is a transfer case issue? What would throw off the place where it should be engaging the gear?

Also, I thought this may be of some note...
Not sure what this part of the linkage is called, but should it have this much play?
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Makes a kindof "chunk" sound when I push it in with my finger.
 

79jasper

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Could you circle which part you're talking about that has play?

I'm still leaning on wrong linkage bar.

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Zaggnutt

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Could you circle which part you're talking about that has play?

I'm still leaning on wrong linkage bar.

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The part that at the top of the pic that looks like a disc. Ya know, I didn't put a lot of thought into what you said, but looking at the pics I noticed that the link in the pic is twisted and bent a little... You see that? Could that be affecting things at all?
 

Zaggnutt

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Bear in mind, there is another link in the linkage that cannot be seen from those two pics...

That disc shaped piece at the top of the pic is the part that enters the transfer case. Maybe play is the wrong word.... Travel maybe is a better one. It doesn't wiggle and is not loose, but if I push it will move in towards the transfer case 1/4"-1/2". I can then pull it back out, but the "chunk" sound only happens when I push it in.
 

79jasper

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Oh wow, just noticed how bent it is.

Someone got rough trying to remove it.
See if you can remove it and hammer it flat.

I can't remember for sure, but I don't think it should have in/out play.

Someone has had the shifter apart before. Probably for greasing.

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Zaggnutt

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Okay, that will be my project for tomorrow. Ummm is there anyway to remove those links WITHOUT trashing the bushing? My first shot at it did not go well... for the bushing I mean.... LOL!
 

LCAM-01XA

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Ummm is there anyway to remove those links WITHOUT trashing the bushing?
I'm all ears on that as well, I absolutely hate those plastic SOBs, I've bent a few links while trying to make the darn bushing let go...

Yoke ID via BlueOvalTrucks, first is the fixed yoke - it's a BW1345 case but the principle still applies, the rear yoke is permanently bolted to the case and driveshaft U-joint is held into it by small U-bolts, much like how it's done on the rear axle:
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And this here now is a slip-yoke BW1356, notice there is just a long snout on the rear with the shaft barely visible inside it, and the yoke itself is nowhere to be found - that's cause the yoke is now part of the driveshaft, it slides into the transfer case snout when installed and slips off when shaft is removed:
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I will check tomorrow how much in-out play the shift lever on my BW1356 has, it shifted properly even tho case oil pump was don for.
 

Zaggnutt

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Okay, thanks. I'm very interested in thoughts on the bent shift link and also the fact that it locks the driveshaft in what would normally be the middle neutral area between 2wd and 4h. It is not random, either. I can feel it in the shifter that I am hitting a gear there.
 

Zaggnutt

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Okay, two things... One, I used a screw driver behind the linkage bushings to pry them off and it worked well. Two: In post #33 I noticed the linkage bar looked bent. I removed it and found this...
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I don't know that it matters that it is an E4OD linkage bar on a ZF5 tranny, but I do know that it has been broken or cut and welded together... So, I'm hoping this is my problem. I should have taken an angle shot. It is a little crooked. Would my best route be a U-Pull-It for this part?
 
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LCAM-01XA

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Slip yoke is standard issue and is a good thing, you can use transfer case from any F-Series truck regardless of wheelbase, if it was a fixed yoke then you'd be looking at Broncos only as donors. Not that you should be looking for one, I think you already found the problem:

The E4OD is a very long transmission, it puts the transfer case way back, but shifter has to stay in the same place cause of the cab floor. So Ford used a longer link on the E4OD as compared to the ZF5, if the correct ZF5 link is not available shortening the E4OD link is perfectly acceptable. As long as it's the right length that is, which yours sounds like it's not - what you're describing as behavior and the positions of the shifter in the pics suggests to me that someone cut the link too short, and you're hitting the detents in the transfer case before the shifter hits its gates right. The easiest solution would be to make yourself a new link, all it is is a piece of flat stock with two holes in it, don't have to be fancy. How long is your current link between the centers of the bushings holes, I can compare it to several links I got laying around and see if I can ID which one of them goes with my transfer case and then give you the correct length.

About the shift lever on the side of the transfer case, are you sure you're getting that much in-out play? All I can get out of mine is about 1/16", don't think it's even possible to have it slide in and out 1/2" without dropping out of its channels in the shift forks on the inside of the case... Check again how much in-out play you have with the welded link removed, I bet you'll find it's only 1/8" or less, which is probably nothing to freak out about.
 

Zaggnutt

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Slip yoke is standard issue and is a good thing, you can use transfer case from any F-Series truck regardless of wheelbase, if it was a fixed yoke then you'd be looking at Broncos only as donors. Not that you should be looking for one, I think you already found the problem:

The E4OD is a very long transmission, it puts the transfer case way back, but shifter has to stay in the same place cause of the cab floor. So Ford used a longer link on the E4OD as compared to the ZF5, if the correct ZF5 link is not available shortening the E4OD link is perfectly acceptable. As long as it's the right length that is, which yours sounds like it's not - what you're describing as behavior and the positions of the shifter in the pics suggests to me that someone cut the link too short, and you're hitting the detents in the transfer case before the shifter hits its gates right. The easiest solution would be to make yourself a new link, all it is is a piece of flat stock with two holes in it, don't have to be fancy. How long is your current link between the centers of the bushings holes, I can compare it to several links I got laying around and see if I can ID which one of them goes with my transfer case and then give you the correct length.

About the shift lever on the side of the transfer case, are you sure you're getting that much in-out play? All I can get out of mine is about 1/16", don't think it's even possible to have it slide in and out 1/2" without dropping out of its channels in the shift forks on the inside of the case... Check again how much in-out play you have with the welded link removed, I bet you'll find it's only 1/8" or less, which is probably nothing to freak out about.

1. The linkage piece is 4" exactly from center of hole to center of hole. How long should it be?
2. The play on the side of the transfer case lever seems okay. It doesn't feel like it's disengaging. It's definitely 1/4", but that's about it. Seems fine.
3. While under the truck moving the shifter, it engages in all three places. I can hear and feel it engage inside the transfer case.
4. I was looking at shifter knobs on ebay because mine is gone and the F150 knobs have 2WD-4H-N-4L. This is the order mine is shifting in.
 
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