+1
1993 F350 DRW 7.3 idi non-turbo - looking for steps directions on engine removal
- Thread starter ferrellmedia
- Start date
Could have avoided that pulling the front clip.....
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
I'm working in my driveway and in my city/town, they have regulations against doing major mechanical work in your driveway.
I take the front clip off, all the sudden I have code enforcement serving me with fines.
Also, want to do as much if not all of this by myself. I've never done ANY bodywork, no experience on remounting fenders, getting them aligned etc....
And when assessing the situation, mechanically, other than lifting the engine over the front radiator support, everything else looks like my old small block chevy back in 1990 just everythind is DOUBLED in size.
I'm thinking I can take the front tires off, lower the front of the truck once ready and the lift will clear the radiator support.
Going to get the fan clutch and as much of the front of the engine off today after work to rule out the timing gears causing the lock up prior to pulling engine.
I take the front clip off, all the sudden I have code enforcement serving me with fines.
Also, want to do as much if not all of this by myself. I've never done ANY bodywork, no experience on remounting fenders, getting them aligned etc....
And when assessing the situation, mechanically, other than lifting the engine over the front radiator support, everything else looks like my old small block chevy back in 1990 just everythind is DOUBLED in size.
I'm thinking I can take the front tires off, lower the front of the truck once ready and the lift will clear the radiator support.
Going to get the fan clutch and as much of the front of the engine off today after work to rule out the timing gears causing the lock up prior to pulling engine.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
OK, first hurdle....
I thought if I took the 4 bolts which looked like it was holding the fan/clutch assembly to the water pump out and the ring which overlays the pulley and the pulley itself pulled away, but the fan/clutch assembly did not.
It was ONLY THEN, that I logged in here and read that the fan is screwed onto the end of the water pump.....
So now I have the fan belt off, have the 4 bolts over the ring to the pulley out, is it easier now to remove the entire water pump?
Or do I need to re-assemble something and follow directions?
I'm hesitant that if I take the entire water pump off, I will not be able to bust the torque on the fan......
Thanks in advance for all the assistance.
I thought if I took the 4 bolts which looked like it was holding the fan/clutch assembly to the water pump out and the ring which overlays the pulley and the pulley itself pulled away, but the fan/clutch assembly did not.
It was ONLY THEN, that I logged in here and read that the fan is screwed onto the end of the water pump.....
So now I have the fan belt off, have the 4 bolts over the ring to the pulley out, is it easier now to remove the entire water pump?
Or do I need to re-assemble something and follow directions?
I'm hesitant that if I take the entire water pump off, I will not be able to bust the torque on the fan......
Thanks in advance for all the assistance.
Todd C
Full Access Member
I'm not sure how you'd make out removing the water pump first... You should be able to rent a tool to remove the big nut on the end of the water pump. It's a left hand thread! Check out your local auto parts store for a rental. I have one from Napa that clamps onto the bolts you removed to hold the clutch still and another thick steel piece that has the correct size for the nut. You may be able to find a wrench that would fit. I don't remember the size, but I think its a little more than 2". Some have used chisels to knock the nut loose. Mine was real tight and I had to wack on the wrench with a hammer. Good luck!
put it back together.
it will save you a ton of time in the long run.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
Day 3 - approx 2 hours total hours approx 4.5
OK, went to my local Advanced Auto parts store, paid the 69.00 to "rent" the tool, (I get the entire amount back when I return, which I think is a really nice deal).
Got the tool, messed around with it unsucessfully for about an hour (actually following the directions), then ended up using the air chisel to get it off. The real reason the damn tool does not work is the cheap "wrench" (if you can call it that) does not fit the fan correctly and it just rounds off the fan. The air chisel mangled it a bit but still probably usable.
Got the water pump off, followed directions found on here and created a cardboard template.
Got the bolts out which look to be holding what looks like a metal sheet behind the water pump. Will work on it more tomorrow.
I will search other forums but goal is to get to the GEARS which drive the cam and pump off the crank PRIOR to pulling the engine, can anyone guide me with the steps from where I am to where I want to go?
I'm assuming I will need to pull the injector pump, then the top cover, then the sheet of metal will slide up and off, correct?
Thanks for all the assistance to date.
OK, went to my local Advanced Auto parts store, paid the 69.00 to "rent" the tool, (I get the entire amount back when I return, which I think is a really nice deal).
Got the tool, messed around with it unsucessfully for about an hour (actually following the directions), then ended up using the air chisel to get it off. The real reason the damn tool does not work is the cheap "wrench" (if you can call it that) does not fit the fan correctly and it just rounds off the fan. The air chisel mangled it a bit but still probably usable.
Got the water pump off, followed directions found on here and created a cardboard template.
Got the bolts out which look to be holding what looks like a metal sheet behind the water pump. Will work on it more tomorrow.
I will search other forums but goal is to get to the GEARS which drive the cam and pump off the crank PRIOR to pulling the engine, can anyone guide me with the steps from where I am to where I want to go?
I'm assuming I will need to pull the injector pump, then the top cover, then the sheet of metal will slide up and off, correct?
Thanks for all the assistance to date.
don't mess with the gears just yet.
the sheet metal cover removes from the front, it doesn't "slide" due to two locating pins down by the oil pan. pulling the oil pan first will make your life much easier. it can be done with the oil pan in place, it's just a little more entertaining.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
My intention is not to 'mess' with the gears, it's to rule out the gears as being the reason the engine will not turn over.
Since the local ford dealer did the last work on the truck when they replaced the injection pump, I wanted to rule this out prior to pulling the entire engine.
Since the local ford dealer did the last work on the truck when they replaced the injection pump, I wanted to rule this out prior to pulling the entire engine.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
OK, Day 4 - approx 4 hours today, total project hours 8.5 (working slow)
Got all accessories off the front of the motor, got the plate off behind the water pump, (MUST REMOVE THE HARMONIC BALANCER FIRST!).
I will publicly admit to my first bonehead mistake, I forgot to take the washer off with the crank bolt holding the balancer on which made for an interesting time pulling the balancer off. I actually broke the washer while applying pressure and that's when I said, "damn I forgot the washer!". I hope I can get a replacement.
The jury is in, the gears all look fine, no issues. looks like the source for the engine LOCK UP is in the bottom end.....oh well...
Got the oil drained, got the injection pump, housing and all injector lines out in one solid peice. Got all wires labeled and removed, got the fuel filter setup removed with all fuel lines, got all block ground wires removed.
I was able to remove the A/C braket, pwr steering pump and smog pump all as a single unit, this should aid in installation.
A few items of note, the inside of the block looks BRAND NEW no rust or scale build up, none of the gears look worn.
The only item of note is that the crank, BEHIND THE gear mechanism on the crank just as it leads thru the front seal into the block looks worn, (its a consistent 360 degree marking), but it doesn't touch anything, I found this weird and it might be manufactured this way but it sure looked like a crank would look when a motor was run with a bad bearing.
Tomorrow, goal is to remove the oil cooler assembly, remove all the transmission bolts, run to harbor frieght to get a cheap tranmission jack to hold the tranny while I pull the motor and I should be ready to remove the motor mounts and jerk it out of the truck.
I'm wondering if the transmission jack is needed, any suggestions? Will the transmission bolts to the cross member hold the transmission while I pull the motor with the torque converter still attached?
Got all accessories off the front of the motor, got the plate off behind the water pump, (MUST REMOVE THE HARMONIC BALANCER FIRST!).
I will publicly admit to my first bonehead mistake, I forgot to take the washer off with the crank bolt holding the balancer on which made for an interesting time pulling the balancer off. I actually broke the washer while applying pressure and that's when I said, "damn I forgot the washer!". I hope I can get a replacement.
The jury is in, the gears all look fine, no issues. looks like the source for the engine LOCK UP is in the bottom end.....oh well...
Got the oil drained, got the injection pump, housing and all injector lines out in one solid peice. Got all wires labeled and removed, got the fuel filter setup removed with all fuel lines, got all block ground wires removed.
I was able to remove the A/C braket, pwr steering pump and smog pump all as a single unit, this should aid in installation.
A few items of note, the inside of the block looks BRAND NEW no rust or scale build up, none of the gears look worn.
The only item of note is that the crank, BEHIND THE gear mechanism on the crank just as it leads thru the front seal into the block looks worn, (its a consistent 360 degree marking), but it doesn't touch anything, I found this weird and it might be manufactured this way but it sure looked like a crank would look when a motor was run with a bad bearing.
Tomorrow, goal is to remove the oil cooler assembly, remove all the transmission bolts, run to harbor frieght to get a cheap tranmission jack to hold the tranny while I pull the motor and I should be ready to remove the motor mounts and jerk it out of the truck.
I'm wondering if the transmission jack is needed, any suggestions? Will the transmission bolts to the cross member hold the transmission while I pull the motor with the torque converter still attached?
Mat J
Way down south
loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up a little bit with the trans on it, then just block up the trans with some blocks.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
No work started today, but had a questiona bout a deal I found.
I found a rebuilt 7.3, but the sellers father rebuilt the motor and it has an unknown history and is sold without warranty.
Supposedly this guy was well known and had his own shop for years.
The price is only 1700.00 sounds too good to pass up.
Any opinions?
Also, mine is a 1993, (one of the last years for the non-turbo) and I'm wondering if there are "gotchas" for moving back in years on these engines.
For instance, is the entire assessory package and wiring done differently?
Are the blocks tapped with the same holes?
Injection pump wiring exactly the same?
AC wiring?
Smog pump?
Alternator?
Sensor wiring on top of inj pump housing?
Any assistance is appreciated.
I found a rebuilt 7.3, but the sellers father rebuilt the motor and it has an unknown history and is sold without warranty.
Supposedly this guy was well known and had his own shop for years.
The price is only 1700.00 sounds too good to pass up.
Any opinions?
Also, mine is a 1993, (one of the last years for the non-turbo) and I'm wondering if there are "gotchas" for moving back in years on these engines.
For instance, is the entire assessory package and wiring done differently?
Are the blocks tapped with the same holes?
Injection pump wiring exactly the same?
AC wiring?
Smog pump?
Alternator?
Sensor wiring on top of inj pump housing?
Any assistance is appreciated.
gonecrazyi
Full Access Member
I believe your motor would have a serpintine belt setup rather then the v belts found on the 90 and back motors. Other then that there are no major differences between the blocks, all of your accessories from the 93 motor will bolt right up.
When my 7.3 died at the beginning of the summer, I went and found a 86 f350 with a 6.9 for 600 bucks and swapped the motor over to my 89. I figured that if this motor ever went I at least had a rebuildable block on my hands. 1700 seems high for an untested motor that you cant run and put through its paces before buying. Pull your block apart first and find out whats wrong. Then youll know wether its cheaper to fix your motor or buy another truck with what you need.
When my 7.3 died at the beginning of the summer, I went and found a 86 f350 with a 6.9 for 600 bucks and swapped the motor over to my 89. I figured that if this motor ever went I at least had a rebuildable block on my hands. 1700 seems high for an untested motor that you cant run and put through its paces before buying. Pull your block apart first and find out whats wrong. Then youll know wether its cheaper to fix your motor or buy another truck with what you need.
One more trick for getting yours out, pop your cab mounts off and get some wood blocks about 6" thick and jack the cab up and set it on the blocks. It will give you a lot of nice extra room to get your hands in behind the engine to work the top bolts and fuel fittings and makes it a lot easier to stuff the engine back in and line it up
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