ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
He didn't mention "glueing" them in, but did state that they bore the block leaving a step on the bottom to hold the sleeve in place and stated that the head holds the top of the sleeve in place.
1993 F350 DRW 7.3 idi non-turbo - looking for steps directions on engine removal
- Thread starter ferrellmedia
- Start date
If done correctly by the machine shop.........the ideal solution would be to sleeve all 8 holes with some Melling sleeves. There are two options and the CSL2274HP sleeves are supposed to be the heavy-duty sleeves. They are listed on page #5 of their catalog or page #11 of the PDF. They are 4.110 Bore and 6-7/8in long. The 6.9 sleeves are CSL237 (4.000 and 6-7/8in long) if I'm reading the catalog correctly.
CLICK HERE for the catalog. They have installation instructions at the begining of the catalog as well.
Having said that, I bored my engine 20 over when rebuilding, but I didn't know of the issuses with cavitation or I would have done the above. I keep my DCA4 up to ***** and I'm crossing my fingers that the block will not cavitate.
Heath
CLICK HERE for the catalog. They have installation instructions at the begining of the catalog as well.
Having said that, I bored my engine 20 over when rebuilding, but I didn't know of the issuses with cavitation or I would have done the above. I keep my DCA4 up to ***** and I'm crossing my fingers that the block will not cavitate.
Heath
Mat J
Way down south
hesutton, did you bore your 7.3 .20 over or the 6.9 in your sig?
ferrellmedia i dont know what I would do if you went threw all this trouble of pulling the engine and getting work done how much more will it really cost you to resleeve all 8 instead of just 2?
ferrellmedia i dont know what I would do if you went threw all this trouble of pulling the engine and getting work done how much more will it really cost you to resleeve all 8 instead of just 2?
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
at 200.00 a sleeve doing only 2 saves 1200.00, I know I SHOULD do all 8, but I've never read of cavitation hitting anyone in any other cylinder than 8.
The odd thing is, this truck has been extremely babied and nobody knew about the SCA's.
I asked the machine shop and he said they had a machine to validate the thickness of the cylinder walls, but that it would not detect the puriocity (sp?) caused by cavitation, so it's literally a crap shoot.
I really have not made up my mind on this.
The odd thing is, this truck has been extremely babied and nobody knew about the SCA's.
I asked the machine shop and he said they had a machine to validate the thickness of the cylinder walls, but that it would not detect the puriocity (sp?) caused by cavitation, so it's literally a crap shoot.
I really have not made up my mind on this.
Mat J
Way down south
yeah that is expensive. have them check the other bores to make sure they arnt out of round, 150000 is nothing on these motors. I think the reason we done hear about other cyl getting cavitation is 7 and or 8 are the first to go and people usually just get a different motor. the back to get it first because of the cdr adding extra oil/fuel to them which burns a little hotter.
Why is it $200 per sleeve? Is that the sleeve plus labor? The sleeve should not be that much from Melling.
Heath
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
That is the price from the machine shop to bore and install the sleeve, not the cost of the sleeve.
I didn't read through the entire thread but have You considered another motor? They sell fr very low prices if You look closely, some member have lots of them stashed and ready to go too.
By the time You are done with everything You'll be way out in expenses compared to simple drop another motor.
By the time You are done with everything You'll be way out in expenses compared to simple drop another motor.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
Exekiel69 - yes, I have looked and I found one I can get for 1700.00, but the guy who rebuilt it is dead and his family does not know much about it.
I'm concerned I will be getting an engine with some other issue without a known history, probably not a big deal, but you never know.
I honestly have not made up my mind completely, I'm thinking I might just buy the reman'ed for 1700 taking the chance and have my known good motor rebuild as funds allow.
The only issue with that plan is the wife ;-0
Not sure right now.
The 1700 reman was done without the engine being really cleaned up, I know that's just looks, but it says something about the process followed to rebuild it. This guy was really good at rebuilding the injection pump and injectors, so my guess is he honed the cylinders which didn't need a sleeve, sleeved the cylinders which needed it, re-used the pistons, rods, replaced all the bearings, possibly reground the crank if needed and just buttoned everything up.
Likely to never have an issue, but it looks bad....when I'm writing this it sounds like it's rediculous to be concerned over that, I mean it's a 1993, but it is in really good shape, if I use this reman'ed engine the engine will be the worse looking thing about the truck.
no idea right now....
I'm concerned I will be getting an engine with some other issue without a known history, probably not a big deal, but you never know.
I honestly have not made up my mind completely, I'm thinking I might just buy the reman'ed for 1700 taking the chance and have my known good motor rebuild as funds allow.
The only issue with that plan is the wife ;-0
Not sure right now.
The 1700 reman was done without the engine being really cleaned up, I know that's just looks, but it says something about the process followed to rebuild it. This guy was really good at rebuilding the injection pump and injectors, so my guess is he honed the cylinders which didn't need a sleeve, sleeved the cylinders which needed it, re-used the pistons, rods, replaced all the bearings, possibly reground the crank if needed and just buttoned everything up.
Likely to never have an issue, but it looks bad....when I'm writing this it sounds like it's rediculous to be concerned over that, I mean it's a 1993, but it is in really good shape, if I use this reman'ed engine the engine will be the worse looking thing about the truck.
no idea right now....
Mat J
Way down south
is the engine rebuilt or remanufactured. if its a reman i would stay about people have had problems with them.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
Mat, not sure I know the difference.
This engine was rebuilt, and I made up my mind to go with it, spoke with them and agreed to a 1500.00 price.
The engine is up in Rockledge.
This engine was rebuilt, and I made up my mind to go with it, spoke with them and agreed to a 1500.00 price.
The engine is up in Rockledge.
Go buy another one, when I said cheap I meant $300-$700 cheap with the same history as the one they want to sell You for $1700. Take Mel, I believe He bought one with unknown mileage for dirt cheap and the engine still runs like a champ. I would keep looking for something else unless it was a known member of this board then I could trust and buy an engine for that much.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
I've purchased the rebuild for 1500.00, going to start the installation process next weekend.
This path is the least amount of financial risk, if the entire engine blows up in two weeks, I could part it out for at the very least half that price. Also, I'm keeping my stock 7.3, building a wooden crate for storage today and I will have it for parts.
I would love to build a hopped up turbo'ed version down the road.
Any suggestions of things I should tackle on the truck now that I've got the engine out?
I keep thinking shocks would be much easier, I've got a drag link to replace and I was thinking about sticking up some dynomat, (ya know, just in case I find a turbo down the road)....
This path is the least amount of financial risk, if the entire engine blows up in two weeks, I could part it out for at the very least half that price. Also, I'm keeping my stock 7.3, building a wooden crate for storage today and I will have it for parts.
I would love to build a hopped up turbo'ed version down the road.
Any suggestions of things I should tackle on the truck now that I've got the engine out?
I keep thinking shocks would be much easier, I've got a drag link to replace and I was thinking about sticking up some dynomat, (ya know, just in case I find a turbo down the road)....
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
i guess i just caught on this thread to late but i have a rubuilt 7.3 that i am wanting to sell. i built it at the begining of the year and have about 10,000 miles on it. it was just a rebuild, all the specs were good. and its painted up international grey. i was going to sell it to help fund another 7.3 build that will be turbod.
ferrellmedia
Full Access Member
Where is it located, what are the specifics and most importantly, what is the cost?
