IP Wrench- cheap & almost easy

Well, after spending the best part of the weekend working on my daughters car, I was finally able to spend a little time on Henry. After running incredibly strong immediately after installing the Baby Moose, the performance slowly degraded. I thought it was solely the viscosity difference with the WMO in the cooler weather, but there was a little more to it than that. Stuttering and blowing white (gray) smoke at higher rpm's on diesel or WMO mix was the give away. I Searched OB for advance direction on the IP but got annoyed after reading for ten minutes and not finding it, then broke down and looked in my Chilton's... Oh yeah, that's right, towards the passenger side. I quickly realized that a regular 9/16" wrench just wasn't gonna cut the mustard for this job, and maybe that's why the pump nuts were only on there just about one inch pound over finger tight (BILLY!!). Anyway, it was a good excuse to go ahead and make an IDI specific tool that'll probably see use from several members, so the need was there. Tools required: torch, 9/16" box end wrench, vise, pipe, grinder/sander.
Secure the wrench in the vise, heat bend area until red, slip pipe over other end and pull until proper angle is attained. Grind to dimensions shown.
I can't recall how much the "proper" tool costs, but it's guaranteed to be more than I'm willing to pay, and be harder to locate than I'm willing to deal with, therefore... I hope somebody gets some use out of this!

How much offset did you put on the flat side of the wrench? Thanks. Steve

tenlug said:

How much offset did you put on the flat side of the wrench? Thanks. Steve

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Steve- I didn't mess with the offset at all, it's completely Craftsman stock. BUT- I will say that if I made another one, it would be with a NON-offset wrench, as the offset causes an interference with the radiator hose causing you to have to take short rotations before re-placement.

nice idea there

So did you advance the timing by ear, or by using a meter? If with a meter how retarded was the timing, if by ear how far did you turn it (1/16 inch...)?

They were tight when I put them on there. One thing I've found with a diesel is its good to double check tightness after a few days of driving because things like to rattle loose. Thankfully nothing bad happened because of it being loose.

On that note, I may be up your way saturday if I get the crew cab I found up there. Om waiting to hear back to see if the guy accepts my offer.

gonecrazyi said:

They were tight when I put them on there. One thing I've found with a diesel is its good to double check tightness after a few days of driving because things like to rattle loose. Thankfully nothing bad happened because of it being loose.

On that note, I may be up your way saturday if I get the crew cab I found up there. Om waiting to hear back to see if the guy accepts my offer.

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Couldn't resist yankin' your chain, man I'm sure they were tight, but now they're REALLY tight! Did you locate another motor? This coming Saturday we're going to head out to the property to do some dirt work- unless something changes...

I've got two more inthe back of my truck. If all works out I've got two trucks to get this weekend. Then ill have everything I need to build my truck and my buddies truck.

coletrain777 said:

So did you advance the timing by ear, or by using a meter? If with a meter how retarded was the timing, if by ear how far did you turn it (1/16 inch...)?

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By ear, no meter currently handy.. I'm due to make a trip south to visit Diesel JD & gonecrazyi soon anyway so I'll get JD to time it properly then. The pump was perfectly aligned with the factory notch when I popped the hood yesterday, so I pulled it over .045" and locked it down. It runs a lot better now but you still have to sneek up on 2400 rpm and above on hard accelerations, so I'm going to install my new Facet e-pump and a new final filter before I adjust again, because I have a gut feeling that part of the problem is a fuel supply/demand issue caused by thicker fuel and an overworked Holley Red.

thats funny I just made one this weekend to remove an IP. took a cheap craftsman evolve wrench and bent it in the middle and near the open end.

gatorman21218 said:

thats funny I just made one this weekend to remove an IP. took a cheap craftsman evolve wrench and bent it in the middle and near the open end.

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Great minds...... Why near the open end? My thinking was that the box end is a twelve point, so that would give me twice as many positional options for working in a confined space. But no matter, did it work OK for you is the question?

....think alike!

yeah it worked great the pump is on a UPS truck somewhere between here and delta, PA. I did the open end because at least on the top bolt there did not seem to be enough clearance between the bolt head and the pump to slip a socket or box end.

gatorman21218 said:

took a cheap craftsman evolve wrench and bent it in the middle and near the open end.

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I went to Sears last week... As I was looking through the tools, I noticed the evolve series of tools and their much cheaper prices. Upon closer inspection, I found the words "made in china" on the cardboard. I paid the extra bux, for the "Made in USA" stuff...

BioFarmer93 said:

By ear, no meter currently handy.. I'm due to make a trip south to visit Diesel JD & gonecrazyi soon anyway so I'll get JD to time it properly then. The pump was perfectly aligned with the factory notch when I popped the hood yesterday, so I pulled it over .045" and locked it down. It runs a lot better now but you still have to sneek up on 2400 rpm and above on hard accelerations, so I'm going to install my new Facet e-pump and a new final filter before I adjust again, because I have a gut feeling that part of the problem is a fuel supply/demand issue caused by thicker fuel and an overworked Holley Red.

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would it be too much to ask to check timing on diesel and then on wmo? Ive always wanted to know how much more ignition lag with wmo. I usually run 1.5deg more for wmo.

Sears obstruction wrench. Just grind the 9/16" end to fit.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904376000P?prdNo=10&blockNo=34&blockType=G34