Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else

The_Josh_Bear said:

Wasn't the stock adapter on #2 for vans? Maybe the lines came off something else at some point.
Either way measure the total length of #1 and #2 line, counting the adapter as part of the line. They should be equal length.

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#4 for vans IIRC

The_Josh_Bear said:

Wasn't the stock adapter on #2 for vans?

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ttman4 said:

#4 for vans IIRC

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Correct. It was on #4 for vans and Internationals.

IDIBRONCO said:

Correct. It was on #4 for vans and Internationals.

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Well then that's all kinds of strange for it to be on #2!

The hard lines look all bent to heck, maybe angle of camera. But does look like a line clamp is missing. Need all 4 of them to keep the lines from vibrating and cracking. Noticed the clear return line at the rear of the engine, they get hard from the fuel.

Yeah you have your work to do to get her back to stock. They sure hacked it up.

When I find good Battery trays at PNP I grab them. Had several sand blasted and POR`d them and the brackets.
Some Ford trucks have the Pass side similar to the one on the drivers side. My 86 has a goofy stamped out sheet metal one.
HMMM 80 - 86 did not know that.

Did a Google search, and lots of options where to buy a new one.



Goat

That is a nice shop you have there and a great view..!!

I have a cousin that used to live up there...on a clear day you can see for miles...

Let us know what machine shop you choose if you need any work...I am scouting around for someone to use in the future in case I need anything...eventually I would like to build a stronger engine for my '85.

I am living hours away from all of my old machine shop connections and would like to get some recommendations...

Hope all goes well for you on this project...looks like you have a good start.

Good luck on it...

P.S. I am sure glad that I am not the one that has to clean out those drain pans...but I might if I could get a few minutes to take in that view of the Blue Ridge...

Since the rad had antifreeze in it, a quick way to determine if in fact it is water infiltration thru the air cleaner would be to take a sample of that grey liquid and put it in your freezer. Obviously if it freezes, there's a good chance the head gaskets are OK.

catbird7 said:

Since the rad had antifreeze in it, a quick way to determine if in fact it is water infiltration thru the air cleaner would be to take a sample of that grey liquid and put it in your freezer. Obviously if it freezes, there's a good chance the head gaskets are OK.

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Freaking brilliant...!!

I'll have to remember that...

@catbird7 I'll definitely try that!!!

Here are some additional shots of the fuel lines:



#2 has a nice bend it it, possibly because that adapter?

But pretty much all the rest have bents in them as well to some degree:







All 4 fasteners are missing. I was able to remove this label from the #8 line:



So it looks like the lines were replaced in 2004 or maybe 2005?

I pulled the #2 glow plug and injector:







#2 injector is from 2005:



Stanadyne 781535.

So hard lines replaced in 2004 and injectors in 2005, or more likely, both in 2005.

XOLATEM said:

That is a nice shop you have there and a great view..!!

I have a cousin that used to live up there...on a clear day you can see for miles...

Let us know what machine shop you choose if you need any work...I am scouting around for someone to use in the future in case I need anything...eventually I would like to build a stronger engine for my '85.

I am living hours away from all of my old machine shop connections and would like to get some recommendations...

Hope all goes well for you on this project...looks like you have a good start.

Good luck on it...

P.S. I am sure glad that I am not the one that has to clean out those drain pans...but I might if I could get a few minutes to take in that view of the Blue Ridge...

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@XOLATEM Thanks. Yeah, the views here are fantastic:



And I just got done hanging drywall over the last 6 months or so. Turned out nice and is so much brighter than before with the exposed insulation:



It's my little place to get away from it all and tinker with my projects!

Once I get the heads off, I'll check that they are the block are straight. If not, I'll be looking for a machine shop. Place I used to use is closed down, but there are a couple of others I will check out.

And you definitely have a 7.3L glow plug controller on it in the picture of the engine

@mf7lakes Thanks for the link! I found a lot of different places selling replacement hard lines, but wasn't sure which were good quality. Those in the link look good!

crazydane said:

@XOLATEM Thanks. Yeah, the views here are fantastic:

You must be registered for see images attach

And I just got done hanging drywall over the last 6 months or so. Turned out nice and is so much brighter than before with the exposed insulation:

You must be registered for see images attach

It's my little place to get away from it all and tinker with my projects!

Once I get the heads off, I'll check that they are the block are straight. If not, I'll be looking for a machine shop. Place I used to use is closed down, but there are a couple of others I will check out.

Click to expand...

Wow, you ain't kidding about fantastic views!!! And the last time my shop looked that clean and organized is when I first built it. Very nice.

Made decent progress today. Removed the factory wiring harness from the engine, along with the glow plug controller. Looks like it was replaced at one point:



Got the clutch actuator removed, but as I did so, water started dripping down. Turns out the reservoir was full of water:



No doubt due to the missing cowl to hood seal. I sucked out what I could with a large syringe, but not sure how to completely vacate the remaining water from it, short of removing the whole thing.

After taking a closer look at the transmission, I think I'll be better off dropping it before attempting to remove the engine.

How do you guys drop the trans? From looking at it, it would appear the crossmember won't slide back without removing the two braces going to the frame (passenger side one shown below with the red arrow pointing to it)?



The bottom bolts will come out pretty easily, but I'm not sure how to get to the upper ones?

Got the exhaust unbolted form the manifolds. The nuts/bolts came out surprisingly easy. Exhaust appears to be a good shape overall and I think I spot a Flowmaster muffler:



Also pulled the bench seat out and removed the gear shift rod. So glad they went with bolts holding the rod to the lever in the gearcase compared to previous generations.

Tried to have a go at the 2 bolts on top of the bellhousing, but wasn't able to get enough leverage to break them free:



Not enough room for my 1/2" breaker bar and socket to clear the firewall. What's the trick to break those free? I'll see if a 3/8" racket will fit with a pipe extension, but I'm afraid I'll break it if I try.

That's all for today.