idi lift pump

so with the mechanical fuel pump leaking that goes down around the oil pan and back can that really go in and mess the motor up like I have heard on the Internet

ericwade381 said:

so with the mechanical fuel pump leaking that goes down around the oil pan and back can that really go in and mess the motor up like I have heard on the Internet

Click to expand...

There is a big hole in the block where the pump mounts. This is so the mechanical arm can go into the engine and be moved up and down on a cam to make the pump work. The only thing between this big hole in the engine and the fuel is the pump diaphragm. When the diaphragm gets a hole in it, then the fuel can leak into the engine and get into the engine oil. This thins out the oil and it doesn't lubricate the engine properly.

If you check your oil on a regular basis, you can usually catch it for it does any damage. You will find you are mysteriously gaining oil level on the dipstick.

Thanks for the breakdown how bad of a job putting a replacement mechanical pump in? If you put it in wrong and it breaks are you screwed? I heard the position has to be low then I heard high position?

I found this thread and wanted to put my mechanical lift pump instal video here I just made for anybody else that comes along in the future.

Let's add the faucet has proven NOT to be a solid performer.
search e pumps FIRST!

I changed mine about a month ago, not that hard to do.
I watched the video, stupid kid introduced air into the fuel system using the rubber hose and fuel can. Not too sure what that was all about. A lot of unnecessary cranking on the Starter.

The following is what I did, you may want to skip some of these steps.

1. Disconnect both Batteries.

When the steel fuel line to the filter is disconnected from the Lift Pump, Fuel only drains out of it...if you crack the fitting at the top at the Filter. Other wise I suppose it could drain fuel from the Filter.
I just removed it and set aside.

Removed the Alternator and set aside to get it and the Belt out of the way.
Removed the Fuel Filter Big Bracket as set aside.
(I have a rubber hose from the Filter to Injection Pump)

Instead of trying to remove the clamps on the Curly Q Hose to the Pump, just cut it in two.
Remove the 2 Bolts that hold the Pump to the Block and lift the Pump out.

Put a clean rag into the hole in the Block and scrap off all the crud, and clean off the mating surface with some solvent, Carb Cleaner etc...
Then be sure to remove the Rag from the hole in the Block.

The 2 paper Gaskets that came with the new pump, the hole were too small for the bolts, and had to use a hole punch to enlarge them.

Use your favorite flavor gasket sealer, and stick it onto the Pump. I left it dry on the Block side.
Put the Pump arm into the block like you are trying to shove it into the bottom of the pan. This way it will be under the Cam.
Then install the 2 mounting bolts.
Replace the Curly Q hose with a new 3/8" piece.

(I gave the Hard supply line the deep 6, and replaced it with a rubber hose. 3/8".
Put a Brass Barb fitting on the Lift Pump and on the Filter housing.)

On both ends of the Hard Supply line are rubber seals referred to as Olives. They get hard and will eventually start sucking air when disturbed. Russ repair has those if needed.

When you reattach the supply line from Lift Pump to Filter, be sure to fill it with ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, Diesel etc... so you do not have any air getting into the fuel system.
I used a big Syringe I got from the $ Store, think it is used to inject tender izer into meat or what ever. Works great to eliminate a mess.

Reinstall Alternator, tighten belt, then Vac pump and tighten its belt.
Connect batteries, and crank her over and she she should light off w/o any problems.

Whether Lift Pump has the straight arm or bent one, both go UNDER the Cam. Not over it, like was mentioned in an above Post with the bent arm.

This is an old Thread from 2014 with some misinformation, that I heard on the internet etc...
Hope this helps some one.

I replaced my Pump because it was wet with fuel on the bottom, but not dripping.
After replacing it. I noticed the Engine seemed to have a bit more get up and go. Probably was not supplying enough fuel pressure.


Goat

Old Goat said:

When the steel fuel line to the filter is disconnected from the Lift Pump, Fuel only drains out of it...if you crack the fitting at the top at the Filter. Other wise I suppose it could drain fuel from the Filter.
I just removed it and set aside.

Click to expand...

I remove this too. I've tried leaving it in place in the past and removing it seems to cut the work in half. Maybe that's just the four letter words?

Old Goat said:

The 2 paper Gaskets that came with the new pump, the hole were too small for the bolts, and had to use a hole punch to enlarge them.

Click to expand...

I didn't see your new gasket so I don't know for sure, but were those holes supposed to be smaller? I've seen gaskets, especially ones like this that like to fall down and are hard to keep in place, that purposely have smaller holes. This is so you can thread the bolt(s) at least part way through the hole(s). This does two things. It holds your bolts and it also keep the gasket lined up. Of course there's also the possibility that I am using the smaller holes wrong and actually invented something really cool. I really tend to doubt that though.

Old Goat said:

On both ends of the Hard Supply line are rubber seals referred to as Olives.

Click to expand...

No only the upper end of the hard line between the lift pump and the filter has an olive. The lower end has a compression fitting and doesn't need anything else to seal it.

I've had to replace mechanical fuel pumps a couple times now. I've learned to put a stud in the block instead of the back bolt that I can never get started. Taking the vacuum pump off definitely helps.