ARP stud install and engine tear down

IDIBRONCO

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@IDIBRONCO any ideas about those electrical connectors on IP mentioned in previous post?
I believe that they were actually connected. I think that the bad part you saw was the plastic insulator over the metal connector. They can be used this way. If you want to replace them, I have no idea where to find new ones. I'm sure that someone will know. How you choose to go on this one is up to you although I'm sure that it would be better to replace them.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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I believe that they were actually connected. I think that the bad part you saw was the plastic insulator over the metal connector. They can be used this way. If you want to replace them, I have no idea where to find new ones. I'm sure that someone will know. How you choose to go on this one is up to you although I'm sure that it would be better to replace them.
Ok thanks, I’ll see if I can find some replacements, if not I’ll just put them back the way they were.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I view those connection like our type of glow plug connectors (I have a 85). DON'T look at mine, I think maybe two or three still have the plastic left on them.
 

IDIBRONCO

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In case you couldn't tell, I've literally changed out over 100 of these engine. I could have said more, but I have no idea on numbers and I know that it's more than 100. I won't say that I've seen it all, but I have seen quite a bit.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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In case you couldn't tell, I've literally changed out over 100 of these engine. I could have said more, but I have no idea on numbers and I know that it's more than 100. I won't say that I've seen it all, but I have seen quite a bit.
Ya I can definitely tell. Lots of knowledge on this forum
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Went ahead and cleaned up valve covers and dipstick bracket. Not bad for 32 years old. Probably will end up painting.

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The_Josh_Bear

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In case you couldn't tell, I've literally changed out over 100 of these engine. I could have said more, but I have no idea on numbers and I know that it's more than 100. I won't say that I've seen it all, but I have seen quite a bit.
Dang man, I've known for a while now you knew what you were talking about but that's an awesome statement! You must be quite the wrench!
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Went ahead and cleaned up valve covers and dipstick bracket. Not bad for 32 years old. Probably will end up painting.

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Definitely time for paint! A little paint now will make you smile for years to come.

As for the electrical connectors to the IP, they are just female spade connections. IIRC the fuel shut off is wider than the other two but that's it. As stated above if the plastic bits are crumbling that's no big deal as long as the wire and connector are ok. Slip some heat-shrink over it and heat up to protect from accidental grounding when disconnected.

If the actual terminals are toast, you may be able to cut the old ones out and crimp new ones on...but the wires aren't super long to start with do measure it first. Worst case you can add wire to lengthen.
 

genscripter

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I've read of guys that had crumbled plastic electrical female connectors, and they just put a bit of heat shrink on the end and shrink it to what was left of the connector. That protects whatever is left, and makes sure you don't short anything out.

As for write-ups, here is some more reference material for you:

Here's the time I did what you are doing now (replacing the heads in the engine bay), but in a van. That was a doozey. You'l have a much easier time than me. :)

Here's my latest 7.3 IDI teardown write-up.

And here's the subsequent 7.3 rebuild write-up.

HTH. While I started out my website to focus on the IDI Van, I ended up having a lot of fundamental 7.3 IDI stuff on it, like the rebuild articles. Message me or comment on the page if you have any questions.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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I've read of guys that had crumbled plastic electrical female connectors, and they just put a bit of heat shrink on the end and shrink it to what was left of the connector. That protects whatever is left, and makes sure you don't short anything out.

As for write-ups, here is some more reference material for you:

Here's the time I did what you are doing now (replacing the heads in the engine bay), but in a van. That was a doozey. You'l have a much easier time than me. :)

Here's my latest 7.3 IDI teardown write-up.

And here's the subsequent 7.3 rebuild write-up.

HTH. While I started out my website to focus on the IDI Van, I ended up having a lot of fundamental 7.3 IDI stuff on it, like the rebuild articles. Message me or comment on the page if you have any questions.
I’m sure I’ll have plenty more questions. I appreciate it. It will probably be another week or so before I can continue the project. Going to a wedding.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Dang man, I've known for a while now you knew what you were talking about but that's an awesome statement! You must be quite the wrench!
Maybe, but here's the very rough numbers. Depending on N/A, turbo, Ford or Chevy, I could swap out two to four a week. I worked there for just over six years. There were busier times and slower times.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Just wanted to add this. I’ve been looking for replacement carpet because the carpet in mine is pretty nasty. Found this place, they had samples to me in 3 days.

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Jimmy Stewart

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So I’m back from the wedding and got back to work on the truck today. Removed intake manifold which consisted of 18 9/16” bolts. After I got the bolts out I took a shop vac and went to town before I budged the manifold. After removing the manifold I took shop vac again to the valley pan. I then removed the 4 11mm bolts in the front and started the process of gently removing the valley pan from front to back. The plug in back center gave me a hard time because it was so crudded up I couldn’t see what tool to use. Finally figured out a 3/8” drive extension does the trick. Also removed glow plugs. That’s as far as I got today.

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IDIBRONCO

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At least you're making progress. The inside of your engine looks pretty clean. No sludge build up or anything like that. Those bolts actually take a 7/16" to remove them. I know that a 11mm may work, but unless someone changed something, there's no metric fasteners on these engines.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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At least you're making progress. The inside of your engine looks pretty clean. No sludge build up or anything like that. Those bolts actually take a 7/16" to remove them. I know that a 11mm may work, but unless someone changed something, there's no metric fasteners on these engines.
Ya, I figured it was a 7/16 but of course mine must’ve gotten misplaced so the 11mm worked for me.
 
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