CDR Delete & Catch can question

JackJ217

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I’m deleting my cdr valve and adding a classic diesel designs catch can. I had a buddy of mine weld a -12 bung on one of my valve covers for the catch can inlet, but I can’t figure out where to route the outlet from the catch can. I know it needs to go to the intake, but I’m not sure where exactly I should put it. I just got my air filter housing powdercoated so I would rather not have to weld a bung onto it :idiot:

Also, the plastic piece that connects the hose from the valley pan up to the cdr valve doesn’t seem to want to stick into the grommet in the valley pan very well. I was planning on putting a 1” hose barb to 1” npt in the hose and then a 1” npt cap, but I’m sure it’ll just get knocked right out of the grommet. Do I just need to replace the grommet in the valley pan? Another idea I had was to make a bracket that clamps onto the 1” npt cap somehow and bolts to where the cdr valve did.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Also, the plastic piece that connects the hose from the valley pan up to the cdr valve doesn’t seem to want to stick into the grommet in the valley pan very well.
Are you talking about the factory piece? If so, it's rubber, not plastic. It may feel like plastic after all these years though.
Do I just need to replace the grommet in the valley pan?
Maybe, but routing the outlet from the catch can here probably won't do a lot of good. There will still be crankcase pressure there. You're looking for vacuum to draw the gasses through the catch can. That's why the CDR pulled gasses from there and put them back into the intake manifold in N/A applications.
Overall, I think that this kit is more for engines with a turbo than a N/A engine. Not that it can't be used with a N/A engine. What are you going to do to block off the hole in the back of the intake manifold?
 

JackJ217

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Are you talking about the factory piece? If so, it's rubber, not plastic. It may feel like plastic after all these years though.

Maybe, but routing the outlet from the catch can here probably won't do a lot of good. There will still be crankcase pressure there. You're looking for vacuum to draw the gasses through the catch can. That's why the CDR pulled gasses from there and put them back into the intake manifold in N/A applications.
Overall, I think that this kit is more for engines with a turbo than a N/A engine. Not that it can't be used with a N/A engine. What are you going to do to block off the hole in the back of the intake manifold?
It sure looked like plastic to me. Attached is a picture of it with a new hose on it.

I wasn’t talking about routing the catch can back into the valley pan, I’m just trying to figure out how to get the hole blocked off.

I put a rubber expansion plug in the hole in the back of the intake. Double nutted it and put red loctite on it to be on the safe side.

I haven’t had the truck for too long, but just recently it started consuming a lot more oil than normal. I figured I might as well try a catch can before I even think about doing rings.
 

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JackJ217

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I do plan on putting a banks kit on the truck in the future after I get my mustang back on the road too, so I figured installing a catch can now while i have the whole front of the truck off can’t hurt.
 

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Nero

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Its supposed to go back to the intake. Its mostly used on turboed applications. On mine, it vents from valve cover to can, then turbo inlet. On average I get 2-3 ounces of oil with each oil change.
 

JackJ217

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I think what I’ll do is remove the rubber expansion plug and route the catch can outlet into the hole in the back of the intake manifold.
1” od stainless pipe with a -12 bung welded on the end should get the job done if I use the original grommet and brace it to the original cdr bolt holes.

I looked online for the piece that comes out of the valley pan and mine is different than most. It is definitely plastic. I shouldve taken a picture of it before I slid a new hose on it, because now its not coming off. Underneath the hose is a typical barb fitting, about an inch long, and the open end that goes into the valley pan is smooth. It had a rubber hose coming off of it with band clamps on either end. (See picture - I had to cut it to get it off)

I’m thinking I could get a new grommet and all rubber piece from swag, and then cut it real short and cap it off, unless there’s an easier and cheaper way to plug that hole?
 

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IDIBRONCO

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Yes you definitely had plastic there. That wasn't factory though. You'd better buy one of those real quickly if you want one. They're pretty hard to get anymore.
 

ttman4

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Few yrs ago Russ told us that this would/supposed to work for the grommet in the valley pan. I had this in my computer notes I try to keep.

Mid '70 Dodge Valve Cover breather grommet for ATS drain & Gray RTV)
(NAPA part #NOE6301411... DORMAN part # 42344)
 

JackJ217

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Few yrs ago Russ told us that this would/supposed to work for the grommet in the valley pan. I had this in my computer notes I try to keep.

Mid '70 Dodge Valve Cover breather grommet for ATS drain & Gray RTV)
(NAPA part #NOE6301411... DORMAN part # 42344)
If I get the rubber piece from swag will I still need the grommet? I would assume so, but there’s no dimensions listed for the swag piece.
 

Nero

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Did it look like this? Only ever seen the one. Came off my truck when I turboed.
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Kdo58

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Cdd is making them, they were giving them away for testing.
 

JackJ217

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Did it look like this? Only ever seen the one. Came off my truck when I turboed.
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Looking at the cdr more closely I don’t think its original. Maybe I wasn’t wrong in thinking that it failed.
It was probably an aftermarket piece that came with the hose and plastic connector.
 

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