IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Unfortunately, you might not be able to.
Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else
- Thread starter crazydane
- Start date
Called around and nobody had the felpro in stock or could order it. I did cross it to the navistar 1805389C3, but all the places that had that one in stock wanted $120+ with shipping on top, so ended up just sucking it up and ordered from CDD as I'd rather throw my business their way since I'll being working with them on a IP rebuild. Already got tracking number. Should be here on Thursday.
Last edited:
Old Goat
Full Access Member
It`s all looking good, coming together for you.
When I did my Oil Cooler gave me the excuse to buy the same press you have. One end popped right together, the other end had to fiddle with it several times to keep it square. I used Syl-Glyde to
lube up the Rings.
That heater/Blower assembly, probably have to source one from the Junk Yard. OEM new is probably NLA.
Back in July when I replaced the IP, I removed every thing all the way to the Hyd Lifters. There was a thread not too far back where one of the members had the lil spring clips on the Lifters come apart on a couple of them. Might have messed up the Push Rods. With my high mileage, found a set (16) from a Ford dealer on line for $322 and free shipping, and a set of American made Push Rods.
The HD Lifters were used from the 6.9 to something like the 6.7
Diesels and some GM engines from my searching.
I reused my Valley Pan I gently removed with a thin Putty Knife, Bottom was rusty, I scrubbed it up good with one of those stainless steel 3 pack brushes from HF and a good degreaser, Then threw on some POR to extend it`s life.
They are stupid pricy for a new one.
Found some gaskets on line that fit between the VP and Head, so when the Manifold it torqued down makes a good leak free seal.
Maybe more important for the 6.9 engine as the 7.3 has some plugs to block off the coolant in the heads.
When the VP is removed, Coolant was dribbling into the Valley and down into the Oil Pan.
Can`t find my receipt right now who the seller is.
But you could use your VP flat part and trace it on a piece of Gasket material. It wasn`t real thick Gasket material.
Edit:
Did some searching and found the site.
www.olsonsgaskets.com
Goat
When I did my Oil Cooler gave me the excuse to buy the same press you have. One end popped right together, the other end had to fiddle with it several times to keep it square. I used Syl-Glyde to
lube up the Rings.
That heater/Blower assembly, probably have to source one from the Junk Yard. OEM new is probably NLA.
Back in July when I replaced the IP, I removed every thing all the way to the Hyd Lifters. There was a thread not too far back where one of the members had the lil spring clips on the Lifters come apart on a couple of them. Might have messed up the Push Rods. With my high mileage, found a set (16) from a Ford dealer on line for $322 and free shipping, and a set of American made Push Rods.
The HD Lifters were used from the 6.9 to something like the 6.7
Diesels and some GM engines from my searching.
I reused my Valley Pan I gently removed with a thin Putty Knife, Bottom was rusty, I scrubbed it up good with one of those stainless steel 3 pack brushes from HF and a good degreaser, Then threw on some POR to extend it`s life.
They are stupid pricy for a new one.
Found some gaskets on line that fit between the VP and Head, so when the Manifold it torqued down makes a good leak free seal.
Maybe more important for the 6.9 engine as the 7.3 has some plugs to block off the coolant in the heads.
When the VP is removed, Coolant was dribbling into the Valley and down into the Oil Pan.
Can`t find my receipt right now who the seller is.
But you could use your VP flat part and trace it on a piece of Gasket material. It wasn`t real thick Gasket material.
Edit:
Did some searching and found the site.
Ford Truck 6.9 and 7.3 liter Intake Manifold/Valley Pan - Olson's Gaskets
Intake Valley Pan helper gaskets for the Ford Truck using International 6.9 liter and 7.3 liter diesel engines.
Goat
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Yeah, that press has come in handy more times than I can count! I'm so happy we now have a local HF store. I had to drive 50 miles to pick up mine back 10 years ago or so.
Figured that heather/blower assembly is no longer stocked. I'll get it all cleaned up and see what I got. Might be fine.
I did clean my lifters thoroughly and rolled all the push rods on a glass plate. All seemed well, but I guess I'll find out soon enough! This was out of the '92 engine with original size pistons, crank and rod bearings. So I think they have more life left in them still.
Thanks for the link on the "helper" gasket! Already ordered the real deal from CDD, but will definitely bookmark that link in case I have to tear it down again (fingers crossed that I won't!)
Been cleaning up parts to paint and what not. Noticed the nibble on the water pump needs to be replaced. It has a rusted through hole:
Any hints on where I might pick up one of those?
Also, as realized that the motor mount brackets are different. One has a notch on it:
Is that the driver or passenger side? I took pics of the motor mounts themselves, but not the brackets when I took everything apart.
Got the grey bracket pieces painted tonight:
Tomorrow I hope to knock out the exhaust headers (2000F black paint), and the brackets painted black from the factory).
Figured that heather/blower assembly is no longer stocked. I'll get it all cleaned up and see what I got. Might be fine.
I did clean my lifters thoroughly and rolled all the push rods on a glass plate. All seemed well, but I guess I'll find out soon enough! This was out of the '92 engine with original size pistons, crank and rod bearings. So I think they have more life left in them still.
Thanks for the link on the "helper" gasket! Already ordered the real deal from CDD, but will definitely bookmark that link in case I have to tear it down again (fingers crossed that I won't!)
Been cleaning up parts to paint and what not. Noticed the nibble on the water pump needs to be replaced. It has a rusted through hole:
You must be registered for see images attach
Any hints on where I might pick up one of those?
Also, as realized that the motor mount brackets are different. One has a notch on it:
You must be registered for see images attach
Is that the driver or passenger side? I took pics of the motor mounts themselves, but not the brackets when I took everything apart.
Got the grey bracket pieces painted tonight:
You must be registered for see images attach
Tomorrow I hope to knock out the exhaust headers (2000F black paint), and the brackets painted black from the factory).
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've seen people slide their heater hose all the way down over that nipple. I don't recommend doing that because it's extremely difficult to remove it without cutting it. If you wanted to, you could cut off the upper, rusted part and then use the lower part for your hose. If it was me, I'd leave that bulge/ring/rib part on there and use it as a safety like the one on the very top.
Huh? That would be more local than my closest one at about 70 miles. Of course that's relayively close. I used to have to drive for about 3 hours to get to the closest one.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Nice shop, so that`s what they are suppose to look like, all tiddy and things in place. Looks like you have an 80 gallon tank, I piked up same brand but a 60 from Tractor Supply for $299.99 from $899.99, was a return. Was never hooked up, just couldn`t sell as new.
That rusted Hose Nipple, probably pick up a new one at any auto supply, or Hard Ware store. Even a big rig truck supply.
When I lived in Santa Cruz, closest HF was Salinas, 40 miles south.
Then here in Nevada, Carson City, 28 miles north of here.
Now we have a new one 6.5 miles down the road. I can spend more money now, the other stores were so far away I could talk my self out of buying too much, but this new store is large, open, spacious and like walking into a candy store.
Goat
That rusted Hose Nipple, probably pick up a new one at any auto supply, or Hard Ware store. Even a big rig truck supply.
When I lived in Santa Cruz, closest HF was Salinas, 40 miles south.
Then here in Nevada, Carson City, 28 miles north of here.
Now we have a new one 6.5 miles down the road. I can spend more money now, the other stores were so far away I could talk my self out of buying too much, but this new store is large, open, spacious and like walking into a candy store.
Goat
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
I would bolt it to the passenger side and see if the notch helps to clear the oil dipstick tube...?
Just a SWAG...
Lol, yeah, having a HF close by is dangerous!
@XOLATEM Great thought on the motor mount brackets, but neither side is that close to the dipstick tube.
That $145 valley pan gasket come in. Got it installed:
And the intake, injectors and glow plugs:
In hindsight, I should have probably painted the heads before putting them on as it will be a pain to mask off the intake to paint the inside facing part now.
Got all the grey brackets cleaned, wire brushed and painted:
You can also see new motor mounts, Holley red pump, wiring harness, new injector lines, new IP feed kit (eliminating the stock hardline) and also the fuel heater bypass plug installed.
Exhaust manifolds also cleaned up and studs removed the cleaned:
Not sure why one side had nuts with build in washers and the other one didn't, but I'd like to get the build in washer ones on both sides. Will look around to see if I can find some.
Was cleaning up the dip stick tubes and noticed both have holes in them:
I found this thread:
www.oilburners.net
From that, I found these:
ford E3UZ-6754-C tube lower
www.ebay.com
ford E8TZ-6754-D tube upper
www.fordpartsgiant.com
ford E5TZ-6B773-A o-rings
I'll have to check, but I think the lower tube is still on the block, but I could be wrong. And I'm hoping I have o-rings that are a close match as $29 seems way expensive for what appear to be pretty common o-rings.
@XOLATEM Great thought on the motor mount brackets, but neither side is that close to the dipstick tube.
That $145 valley pan gasket come in. Got it installed:
You must be registered for see images attach
And the intake, injectors and glow plugs:
You must be registered for see images attach
In hindsight, I should have probably painted the heads before putting them on as it will be a pain to mask off the intake to paint the inside facing part now.
Got all the grey brackets cleaned, wire brushed and painted:
You must be registered for see images attach
You can also see new motor mounts, Holley red pump, wiring harness, new injector lines, new IP feed kit (eliminating the stock hardline) and also the fuel heater bypass plug installed.
Exhaust manifolds also cleaned up and studs removed the cleaned:
You must be registered for see images attach
Not sure why one side had nuts with build in washers and the other one didn't, but I'd like to get the build in washer ones on both sides. Will look around to see if I can find some.
Was cleaning up the dip stick tubes and noticed both have holes in them:
You must be registered for see images attach
I found this thread:
Oil dipstick tube
I know there are some posts on this but need some clarification, trying to get back on road and to work. Was replacing valve cover gaskets and windshield wiper motor (along with a few other pita’s) upon removing mount for dip stick tube the thing just clunked right out of wherever it is...
www.oilburners.net
From that, I found these:
ford E3UZ-6754-C tube lower
Ford OEM E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Engine Oil Level-dipstick Tube E3UZ6754C for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ford OEM E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Engine Oil Level-dipstick Tube E3UZ6754C at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
ford E8TZ-6754-D tube upper
E7TZ-6754-B E7TZ6754B - Genuine Ford Oil Level Indicator Tube
Ford part # E7TZ-6754-B E7TZ6754B, $49.64 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Oil Level Indicator Tube.
www.fordpartsgiant.com
ford E5TZ-6B773-A o-rings
I'll have to check, but I think the lower tube is still on the block, but I could be wrong. And I'm hoping I have o-rings that are a close match as $29 seems way expensive for what appear to be pretty common o-rings.
Last edited:
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Because someone installed the wrong nuts on the studs. The factory nuts didn't use any washers, built in or otherwise. Those may be transmission mount nuts. The ones that hold the mount to the crossmember.
Motor mount issue sorted itself out as the motor mount brackets were slightly different and would only bolt onto the matching side. And with those installed, it was just a matter of matching the notches:
Hamonic balancer painted and sleeved:
Water pump, thermostatic housing, IP housing and misc other parts installed:
Starting to look like an engine again!
Other side:
Got the exhaust manifolds painted, so those will go on tomorrow.
You must be registered for see images attach
Hamonic balancer painted and sleeved:
You must be registered for see images attach
Water pump, thermostatic housing, IP housing and misc other parts installed:
You must be registered for see images attach
Starting to look like an engine again!
You must be registered for see images attach
Other side:
You must be registered for see images attach
Got the exhaust manifolds painted, so those will go on tomorrow.
I looked through my old pictures, but didn't have one showing what goes here: (red arrow)
By method of elimination, I think this sender (with 2 spade lugs on it), goes here. Did I get that right?
With the engine almost done, I started looking at the air filter housing. The lid has seen better days:
I'll see if I can get that center gromet out and that other little cap off center as well, and wire wheel it to remove the rust and then repaint.
The lower portion looks to be in better shape and just needs a cleaning:
After that I'll start looking at the wiring harness to see what it needs.
You must be registered for see images attach
By method of elimination, I think this sender (with 2 spade lugs on it), goes here. Did I get that right?
With the engine almost done, I started looking at the air filter housing. The lid has seen better days:
You must be registered for see images attach
I'll see if I can get that center gromet out and that other little cap off center as well, and wire wheel it to remove the rust and then repaint.
The lower portion looks to be in better shape and just needs a cleaning:
You must be registered for see images attach
After that I'll start looking at the wiring harness to see what it needs.
The double spade is for the fast idle/timing advance, and it's usually located in the V of the engine towards the front next to the IP. Passenger head.
Drivers side head has two coolant sensors. One for the gauge, one for the overheat engine light.
Drivers side head has two coolant sensors. One for the gauge, one for the overheat engine light.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I may not have paid enough attention, but I don't believe that I've ever seen those notches before. Since this is a closer picture, they look like they're been cut by hand and not factory made.
That's supposed to be a 3/8"NPT plug in there. That switch goes into the port that's underneath and slightly behind the thermostat housing.
Appreciate the feedback on the sensor locations. I guess my original engine was all messed up then as to where the sensors were located, which is not surprising given the terrible wiring job they did.
My driver side head has 3/8" NPT plugs in both side holes: (remember these were rebuild heads I purchased on-line)
Front driver side of block has a single sensor: (pretty sure that one is right since its smaller than the others)
Below thermostat housing has a sensor with a single connector (which matches the picture I found of the disassembly of original engine):
Rear of engine has one NPT plug and one sensor:
I'll get my wiring harness cleaned up and laid in place temporarily to see how things line up. I'll probably discard the original one and use the one from the 92' donor engine since it appears to be in better shape (but not great).
The new motor mounts from Rock Auto had notches in it, but only one of the motor mount brackets did. I'll compare pictures I have with the motor mounts still installed just to double check those are correct.
My driver side head has 3/8" NPT plugs in both side holes: (remember these were rebuild heads I purchased on-line)
You must be registered for see images attach
Front driver side of block has a single sensor: (pretty sure that one is right since its smaller than the others)
You must be registered for see images attach
Below thermostat housing has a sensor with a single connector (which matches the picture I found of the disassembly of original engine):
You must be registered for see images attach
Rear of engine has one NPT plug and one sensor:
You must be registered for see images attach
I'll get my wiring harness cleaned up and laid in place temporarily to see how things line up. I'll probably discard the original one and use the one from the 92' donor engine since it appears to be in better shape (but not great).
The new motor mounts from Rock Auto had notches in it, but only one of the motor mount brackets did. I'll compare pictures I have with the motor mounts still installed just to double check those are correct.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
This is not correct. The front one is where the sender for the over temp light goes.
This is correct. It's for the temperature gauge.
This is not correct. This is where your fast idle switch goes. The sender that's in this spot is the one for the overtemp light.
This is correct. This sender is for your oil pressure gauge.
I hope this helps.
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