So what did you do with your truck today?

Big Bart

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If you are using the damper probe, they can be a little challenging to get a reading from. Use business cards laying flat to space the probe from the damper. Start with 4, then 3, then 2, and then 1. Clean out the TDC line on the damper.
 

Danielle

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Awesome thanks for the tips. Steven took us fireworks shopping (2 carts!) So will try in morning
 

Big Bart

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I am a pyro at heart too! I love the mortars! We will be on Catalina Island so no personal fireworks allowed. But they are doing a firework show.

More tips -

1) No rpm reading? The injector clamp is not reading. Try sanding the paint off the injector line. Also do not attach on a bend.

2) Place the selector switch to offset, should read 20*. If not set to 20*.

3) Now place the selector switch to probe. It may take it a few seconds to read. if flashing it is trying to lock in, once not flashing you are good to go.

4) Instructions say plug the meter to battery before plugging in the damper probe to the meter.

More here if needed

 

Nero

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Just got home from my camping trip. This time I was hauling butt to get home, averaged 70-75mph with loaded camper and boat, egt's were pretty steady at 900F, but on a few hills it climbed to 1100F, so I backed out of it as needed. Coolant was pretty steady at about 210 most of the trip, so I think I need to look into my cooling system here before my next trip.
At home I had a nice surprise of two stock air boxes for the turbo setup, so I picked one and shoved that bad boy on. Gotta say a big thanks to Wes at CDD for shipping it along with all the hardware. Modified the catch can so it went from the 3/4 hose to the 1" inlet on the air box, otherwise it was all bolt in.

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Jesus Freak

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Yesterday my two older sons and I (15&13) we're going to get a couple riding mowers for my lawn mower hustle, and a few miles up the road my 15yr old, sitting in the passenger seat, shouts "owwww" and is pulling his shoe off. I said, " what? You got an ant in your shoe?" He says," No, hot water just poured all over my foot!" So I'll be addressing my cooling system too, sounds like I need a heater core.
 

03wr250f

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@Nero What is wrong with it if it held 210 pretty steady, that sounds like its working perfect.
couple numbers for you.
192 factory thermostat opening temp
215-225 roughly where fan clutch should lock. if its locking lower than that is even better.
235 where i would recommend backing out to keep it from getting hotter
242 factory overtemp sensor lights up the check engine light to tell you its too hot.

210 is great!
 

Big Bart

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Yes that sounds right but they are fairly easy to do in these trucks. The trick is pull the glove box off so you have better access. I would suggest replacing both heater hoses as well.
 

Nero

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It was easy to hit 230 and as a heavy duty diesel tech usually those numbers are getting close to overheating. My brass radiator is original from '88, same with the fan clutch, which I think is stuck on at all times. I have a replacement clutch, but the old one is stuck pretty ******* the water pump.
I did have the radiator flushed by a reputable shop about 8 years ago, they said it had some buildup inside, would be fine for light towing, but don't go pulling hills with it. That was back when it was in my '88 standard cab 2x4. Now it's in my' 90 crew cab 4x4 pulling a ton of weight. Being as my engine has an original 93k miles on it.... I wanna have it last a lot longer.
 

Jesus Freak

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Yes that sounds right but they are fairly easy to do in these trucks. The trick is pull the glove box off so you have better access. I would suggest replacing both heater hoses as well.
I know it's usually simple, but when I'm involved.....it gets kinda FREAKY! I'm just going to bypass it for now. All my money is going to get the tow truck drivable, and then I'm going to address my dually in a BIG FREAKING way. It's drinking too much oil outta the crankcase, she's tired and I think"the Piper's" bill is coming.
 
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