"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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Well today was pretty pointless.....

I decided to upgrade since my GPR died.

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Had to oval the holes out a little bit.

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And..... Nothing. Turns out my controller is shot. I thought when I tested it it was good, but I should have known better.
Did somebody say manual GPs?
I thought that's what I heard,lol


Rock
 

The_Josh_Bear

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At least in the interim you could wire up a push-button setup as backup once another controller comes in...

Edit: Rock beat me to it, haha. I got distracted by my 11 month old during the "reply" phase haha!
 

chillman88

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Did somebody say manual GPs?
I thought that's what I heard,lol


Rock
At least in the interim you could wire up a push-button setup as backup once another controller comes in...

Edit: Rock beat me to it, haha. I got distracted by my 11 month old during the "reply" phase haha!
Time for a manual button.

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Really didn't want to, my wife might drive it a little and sometimes my dad borrows it. But.... I'm not going to drop $80 on a cheap aftermarket controller, at least not right now. Weather went south today so that's a project to finish up another time.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I know that my Ex Wife has the 7.3 style of glow plugs, but I already have one of Wes's manual kits sitting inside her just waiting to be installed.
 

chillman88

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I know that my Ex Wife has the 7.3 style of glow plugs, but I already have one of Wes's manual kits sitting inside her just waiting to be installed.

My original plan was to set up the controller with an oil pressure and temperature switch. Set up to keep it off when hot and kill it when the engine is running. That being said, I probably won't bother once I have it working with a pushbutton....
 

chillman88

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So today I made a bracket for the manual glow plug button...

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While the paint was drying I wired up the manual switch for the glow plugs.

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Which brings us to reason #867 why my truck is an A-hole......

Everything was right but no power. Backtraced everything with a TEST LIGHT (previously had been using a DVM). Turns out after all this time and work the primary issue was a loose connection :frustrate:frustrate:frustrate:frustrate


So..... Got that tightened up and.....

Freaking starter solenoid is just clicking. Fender solenoid is fine, so now I'm going to be replacing the starter again! It did start right up after hitting the starter with a hammer for a while.

So yeah, I'm a little frustrated today. At least I have working glow plugs now :rolleyes:
 

chillman88

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I’m liking my powermaster. Brian May have converted me.

Yeah I've got a couple usable spares in the barn I'm going to try. One was cranking slow which is why I put the current (used) one in. But that might have been before I put the new batteries in, I don't remember. I believe it was a parts store reman I took out so I could probably exchange it if it gives me any trouble once I reinstall it.

If I didn't have so much other money in the air right now I'd just buy a powermaster, but I gave Russ a grand between the turbo rebuild, crossover pipe, feed line, and other odds and ends. Plus studs from Justin and I'll still have to buy an exhaust system. New starter isn't quite in the budget if I can squeak by with used LOL
 

chillman88

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Yep I'm pretty sure that clean looking one was a reman from Advance Auto.

Are these Mitsubishi style? I'd like to find a rebuild kit but don't know exactly how to ID them.

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tjsea

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Yep I'm pretty sure that clean looking one was a reman from Advance Auto.

Are these Mitsubishi style? I'd like to find a rebuild kit but don't know exactly how to ID them.

Yep, those are the Mitsubishi style starters. I'll add insult and say I love my Powermaster too, haha!


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chillman88

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For the sake of continuity, put the other starter in and it starts good now.

Today I went over to my buddy's place (where the truck has been staying for the last couple months) and replaced the bad floor switch for the headlights. The old one was..... interesting.

Switch is probably fine, wires were pierced and full of corrosion.
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The interesting part was how it was plugged in.
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Yep, they were wedged in the plug and taped together. Put the new switch in with some dielectric grease and good to go, headlights work again!

Then he helped me pull the studs off the up pipe

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Lots of junk came out when I chased the threads

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Then he welded a washer and nut onto the broken stud on the exhaust housing. Success!

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Getting excited, Russ marked my parts as shipped yesterday!
 
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