Can I replace my CDR valve with an oil catch can?

[Andrew Sang]

I'm experiencing issues with a lot of blowby, and oil in my intake. I suspect this is the cause of my oil leaks (high crankcase pressures) and is due to a failed CDR valve. Can I replace my CDR with an oil catchcan? Do you have any suggestions for good products, to ensure good fitment, or a guide?

 

[Philip1]

On my truck I am planning on not using the cdr and only using a catch can. For types of catch cans, I recommend the provent 200 (or a knockoff which is what I'm using). The reason I like this style is its designed to drain all the captured oil back into the crankcase.

 

[u2slow]

Some other diesels simply use a road-draft tube.

On my old 6.2L diesel, I simply plumbed the crankcase vent back into the air cleaner.

 

[chillman88]

I have a CDR and a generic ProVent on mine. The CDR is designed to block off at high pressure to prevent a run away so I left mine in. It's not soaking the intake in oil anymore, so it must be doing something!

 

[Macrobb]

The CDR is generally open at all times - and usually fails open. It doesn't stop crankcase pressure usually, and if you are having high crankcase pressures, check for a clogged air filter, as that would cause (major) negative pressure in the intake.

Remember, these IDIs produce a *ton* of blowby, from the factory. It's due to the massively large ring gaps, by design! This is why you don't run a RDT - way way too much blowby for that; it looks like the truck is on fire!

 

[Andrew Sang]

On my truck I am planning on not using the cdr and only using a catch can. For types of catch cans, I recommend the provent 200 (or a knockoff which is what I'm using). The reason I like this style is its designed to drain all the captured oil back into the crankcase.

Got a link to a decent knockoff? Haha. The provent 200 is pretty expensive. I'm looking for something less than $80 ideally.

Some other diesels simply use a road-draft tube.

On my old 6.2L diesel, I simply plumbed the crankcase vent back into the air cleaner.

Was thinking about this, but I'm worried about excessive oil burning because I read it was bad to burn too much oil since it could cause head gasket failure. Sorry I'm kind of a novice at diesel trucks.

The CDR is generally open at all times - and usually fails open. It doesn't stop crankcase pressure usually, and if you are having high crankcase pressures, check for a clogged air filter, as that would cause (major) negative pressure in the intake.

Remember, these IDIs produce a *ton* of blowby, from the factory. It's due to the massively large ring gaps, by design! This is why you don't run a RDT - way way too much blowby for that; it looks like the truck is on fire!

Clogged air filter? Don't I -want- negative crankcase pressure, since it would suck the oil back into the crankcase rather than leaking out? Yeah I didn't realize how much blowby that was standard. Won't this cause... idk oil dilution or something?

 

[Philip1]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154141153130
Here is the style of provent 200 I'm using. The only difference is this uses a reuseable steel mesh filter while the genuine one uses a paper filter. If you decide you want the paper filter they sell them separately where you still save by going with the knockoff.

 

[TahoeTom]

I made a catch can using a Goldenrod filter. There is an option to use a stainless strainer instead of the paper filter. I used a Banks adapter on the oil fill and ran post filter to the CDR. I have a Hypermax turbo so the intake accepts the CDR. I improved the catch can after this photo by wrapping a stainless pot scrubber around the strainer. Draining the catch can is a bit of a pain, but I do catch quite a bit of oil. Hose is 1".

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[u2slow]

I made a catch can using a Goldenrod filter. There is an option to use a stainless strainer instead of the paper filter.

Nice!

All you have to do now is plumb the filter drain back into the oil pan.

 

[Clb]

Op
fill in the trucks stats in your sig line so we know what we are talking about when you ask a question.

Fix the existing problems FIRST, then mod if necessary.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Was thinking about this, but I'm worried about excessive oil burning because I read it was bad to burn too much oil since it could cause head gasket failure.

What you read wasn't the correct information. N/A, the CDR goes right into the intake manifold as it was set up from the factory. It usually goes into the intake somewhere preturbo with a turbo.

 

[Andrew Sang]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154141153130
Here is the style of provent 200 I'm using. The only difference is this uses a reuseable steel mesh filter while the genuine one uses a paper filter. If you decide you want the paper filter they sell them separately where you still save by going with the knockoff.

Thanks I'll look into it.

Op
fill in the trucks stats in your sig line so we know what we are talking about when you ask a question.

Fix the existing problems FIRST, then mod if necessary.

Gotcha. Yeah I'll do that. Just really don't want to deal with the glow plugs under the turbo.

What you read wasn't the correct information. N/A, the CDR goes right into the intake manifold as it was set up from the factory. It usually goes into the intake somewhere preturbo with a turbo.

Yeah I guess I can just leave it as is then, or pipe it in.

 

[Cubey]

On my old 6.2L diesel, I simply plumbed the crankcase vent back into the air cleaner.

That's how early ATS 085 kits for IDIs are. No CDR at all. The LH valve cover is linked to the air box.

 

[Macrobb]

Clogged air filter? Don't I -want- negative crankcase pressure, since it would suck the oil back into the crankcase rather than leaking out?

Probably slightly negative at worst, but *too* much negative and you'll end up basically vaporizing oil, which the engine will run on, which is why the thing exists in the first place - Ford evidently tested something and (likely) found out that at high RPM, with a 99% plugged air filter, you could get enough oil vapor generated to make the motor 'run away'(and of course use up your engine oil pretty quickly).

Yeah I didn't realize how much blowby that was standard. Won't this cause... idk oil dilution or something?

It'll cause more soot and crud in the oil than a tighter motor. That's why shorter drain intervals are important - 5K being the absolute max amount of time you ever want to keep oil in there.
A good bypass filter or centrifuge may help with this, though.

 

[Andrew Sang]

Probably slightly negative at worst, but *too* much negative and you'll end up basically vaporizing oil, which the engine will run on, which is why the thing exists in the first place - Ford evidently tested something and (likely) found out that at high RPM, with a 99% plugged air filter, you could get enough oil vapor generated to make the motor 'run away'(and of course use up your engine oil pretty quickly).


It'll cause more soot and crud in the oil than a tighter motor. That's why shorter drain intervals are important - 5K being the absolute max amount of time you ever want to keep oil in there.
A good bypass filter or centrifuge may help with this, though.

Gotcha, I'll definitely keep that in mind. New air filter/oil at the required intervals