1989 F-250 7.3 Project

hacked89

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Why go to the beach every week when you can bring it home on your intake valve?
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hacked89

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I've been chatting with Wes @Thewespaul for a couple of months, and my basement has been sitting full of parts from his business CDD.

Since I just started turning the 50% complete mark, where all the new parts start going together, I wanted to give Wes a big shoutout.

Exceptional customer service, high quality top notch products, he proactively reaches out to his customers, is transparent, and it is quickly apparent that he can be trusted.

I myself measure, test, push the mechanical limits and not afraid to see what happens.. And his openness and technical discussion is why I went with him specifically.
He's very skilled and also humble, he doesn't get defensive if I ask.. "so I calculated X, what do you think about this?"

Ive spent a good amount of money with him, way more than the original value of the truck, and I feel he goes above to make sure he takes care of his customers.

All of the engine parts including the reseal I am in the middle of is from CDD.

The future performance parts you see me talking about is also from Wes.

That said.
Here's a sneak peak of my 145cc pump and T04Z.
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Thewespaul

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Thanks man, you’ve done an excellent job with the truck and been making killer progress, gonna need you to come out to Texas and do my truck next. So excited for you to get it all together and enjoy the upgrades, it’s gonna be a beast. That’s the biggest .310“ two plunger pump and the largest drop in turbo ever put on an IDI :Thumbs Up
 

hacked89

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Worked 83 hours last week, so not much time for the truck. Worked on it the last three nights though a bit each night.

Finished the heads. This is new seals, cleaned up, comp910 springs.
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My injection pump arrived.

I then flipped the motor over, these things are heavy as you know. Even on a 2ton stand I had to use a crane to rotate it.

Pulled the pan off, I didn't like how I had to bend some of the pan lips while prying it off, so I am ordering a new pan.

Internals look nice.
Saw the oil squirters on the IDI in person.
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IDIBRONCO

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Did you get a chance to look at any of the bearings? With the amazing oil pumps that were put in our engines, there's seldom much bearing wear unless it was run low on oil or has many 100,000s of miles on it.
 

hacked89

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Did you get a chance to look at any of the bearings? With the amazing oil pumps that were put in our engines, there's seldom much bearing wear unless it was run low on oil or has many 100,000s of miles on it.
I did not but I believe it. There was a magnetic drain plug in and almost no material on it.

The history of this motor was ambo/RV, sold on Craigslist to the PO 4ish years ago, PO brought it to a machine shop to get redone and then added his touches like the studs, then I got the truck and motor, tore it down and saw its 0.40 over. Navistar book says no over 0.30. Also can't get turbo pistons over 0.30 for example.

Two options left at that point since I plan on pushing power..scrap it/sell it, or experiment the limits and blow it up.

Gonna experiment and probably blow it up.

Once this is all done and running the second motor will be built with turbo pistons and PSD rods but I need to find a good machine shop near me. Mel @Agnem is relatively close by so I'll probably talk to him about who he recommends.

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hacked89

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Got back from my trip and new oil pan showed up.

Goodluck to me..when I read the section of book I put the double bead where the blue circle is but rereading the section it should be where the red is.

Maybe since I cleaned everything well ambo motor will be nice and not leak with the double bead in the wrong spot.
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hacked89

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Resealed the oil cooler.
Nothing interesting in there besides a random o ring and the usual rtv.

The book doesn't really specify how far to press the heads together besides carefully. So I pressed it together until it stopped moving and a bit more out of curiosity.
It was really smooth.
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IDIBRONCO

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I think you did it right. I may be wrong, but it think there's a little bit of wiggle room here. As long as your mounting bolts go into the block, I think you'll be fine. Of course the bolt holes don't give much wiggle room.
 

Thewespaul

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Tip on oil coolers and getting those flange gaskets to not leak... bolt on the whole assembly once dry without any gaskets and it will rotate in the cooler pack slightly to get both ends flat on the block, if you do this first try with the gaskets on there it tends to pinch em, so pull it back off and clean the surfaces and add the gaskets after you bolt it down once to keep it flat on the block surface.
 

hacked89

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Tip on oil coolers and getting those flange gaskets to not leak... bolt on the whole assembly once dry without any gaskets and it will rotate in the cooler pack slightly to get both ends flat on the block, if you do this first try with the gaskets on there it tends to pinch em, so pull it back off and clean the surfaces and add the gaskets after you bolt it down once to keep it flat on the block surface.
Good tip Wes. I mark everything with a paint pen that comes apart, so I pressed it back together and spun them to the same positions.

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hacked89

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Here's how I did the oil cooler, straightforward


1. Remove bolts and keep the order
2. Mark head position with paint pen
3. Seperate with flathead screwdriver
4. Press together to paint marks

Next, i know some people use light rtv, but I use a bit of vaso line to hold the gaskets. Works great and no risk of putting too much.
Then put in the bolts starting with the front of the cooler and torque to standard spec.

The gap pic you can just see everything going on straight.
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hacked89

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What manual is that? I'm just curious since it shows the IHC oil cooler application.
The July 1991 edition service manual from International for the 7.3. You can't beat this text for the IDI.
That's why even though I'm doing basic mechanics I've been posting the pictures out of the book incase others read the thread and see something they needed spec wise.
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