VSS, Cruise control and OD light...

saburai

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Hi Gang! Been too busy of late to do much more than lurk and like a few posts...
Needless to say, but haven't had much time to work on Raylan the truck. That's changing now that we're getting caught up and there's not much work in sight for the foreseeable future...
Anyway, some of you might recall that I've been having trouble with the cruise control in that it failed on me awhile back before we left upstate New York. Behind the curve, we had to head south with our fulltime RV before the freezing weather caught us. A month or so before leaving, Chris @chillman88 and I put a reasonably recently rebuilt and upgraded e4od in. Upon leaving NY for Florida, pulling our 10k+ RV the OD light started tossing codes! I was pretty freaked out, we were hauling about 96% of our worldly possessions behind us in addition to a work deadline to meet... Code reader was telling me that the converter was bad. I didn't want to believe this because I'd just had it rebuilt with triple disc and billet by the shop that did the original tranny build for the OB member that I bought it from... After a lot of fretting and head scratching, I figured it was at worst, an electrical problem of some sort and out of an over abundance of caution, completed the trip with the OD locked out. Other than being slower than I'd have liked, the trip went without event. After getting settled in Florida, when I had time I attempted to track down the problems with the transmission and the cruise control. Since they're both electrical, I'd thought they could be related. Doing the cruise control trouble shooting with a multimeter, I discovered that the cab mounted third brake light was out. This was not obvious since the cap is tight against it - out of sight, out of mind! Because of the necessity of removing the cap to change the bulb, I elected to install a resistor on the brake switch. The resistor had no effect on the cruise control - still non functional. No idea if it affected the transmission, as it only kicked the trouble light when towing heavy. This led me to believe that in addition to the faulty brake light, perhaps the VSS sh*t the bed... which leads me to today. I replaced the VSS and went to run some errands. Once up to speed, I engaged the cruise control, it worked!! I tested all functions and everything seemed fine. After a short while, I noticed that it seemed to be having difficulty modulating the throttle, pretty subtle, but I could feel it was surging... 4-5 miles down the road and the throttle released and once again, the cruise control quit working. The speedometer is fluctuating, maybe 2-4 mph at 60 RPM's are solid and GPS speed is steady. What could it be??
As always, many thanks for your help!
 

chillman88

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The speedometer is fluctuating, maybe 2-4 mph at 60 RPM's are solid and GPS speed is steady.

Yeah I don't like that, something fishy. Have you visually traced the VSS wires to make sure they aren't damaged?

I'm wondering if maybe it's something in the speedometer assembly, but that's just a "top of my head" guess. I don't know how the signal is processed. Really really hope there's nothing wrong with the tone ring in the rear end.
 

chillman88

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Yes, somewhat. It seems like it's a little more pronounced now. But that could be just because I am paying more attention. Sometimes it's hard to be objective...

I completely understand that!
 

saburai

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Yes, somewhat. It seems like it's a little more pronounced now. But that could be just because I am paying more attention. Sometimes it's hard to be objective...

Got out on the highway and at a GPS indicated 75mph the speedometer was bouncing +/- 5-8 mph, definitely much more than before. So although the 26 year old (I'm assuming) original VSS was shot, for whatever reason, the new (chi-com?) aftermarket replacement is causing the speedometer to fluctuate even more... I was taking with Chris @chillman88 the other day, we were discussing possible causes of the new VSS crapping the bed. When I pulled out the old one, it looked super clean, a normal looking thin bit of gray metallic particulate on the magnet, less than I'd have expected, so unless I'm missing something, I don't think the problem is in the differential. Could the PSOM be bad and causing the VSS to fail? What about the steering wheel buttons? Possible short? Could something else do it? Problem with the cruise control servo or some other component? I'm not thinking that it's wiring related since the truck spent it's life in the high and dry Colorado mountains and every connection I've looked at thus far has been excellent. Thoughts, ideas and comments are gratefully appreciated!
 

Selahdoor

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Pull out your glove box.

The ABS control box is behind that. Unplug that box.

Now go for another drive and check the speedo.
 

Thewespaul

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This is what you need, all the aftermarket sensors are bouncy like that. Swap a motorcraft sensor in and it’s perfect.
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Selahdoor

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This is what you need, all the aftermarket sensors are bouncy like that. Swap a motorcraft sensor in and it’s perfect.
You must be registered for see images attach
Got mine straight from the dealer. But unplugging the rabs module is what stopped the bouncy speedo needle, for me.
 

saburai

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This is what you need, all the aftermarket sensors are bouncy like that. Swap a motorcraft sensor in and it’s perfect.
You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks for the good advice!

However, the real question is what caused the sensor to fail? As I said above, when I replaced the VSS, the cruise control came back to life but quit after a short while...
 

Thewespaul

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I’ve gotten them bad out of the box, could be it just worked for awhile but failed due to cheap internal parts or not being able to hold up to heat/vibrations.
 

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