NEEDED ITEMS,
Power steering reservoir, and pressure line fitting you won't need the whole pump, brake pedal
DO NOT REMOVE MC FROM BOOSTER. it is not needed to complete the swap!
Disconnect the two return lines, the pressure line that leads to the Hydroboost assembly and then remove the pressure fitting out of the pump itself, be carefull a valve and spring may pop out. Then once the fitting is removed you can start to wiggle the plastic can off the pump it self.
Leave the lines attached to the brake booster,
Disconnect the pressure line from the steering box that comes from the booster leaving that line attached to the booster.
Disconnect the brake lines or if you can, cut them to help limit loss of fluid everywhere.
this should free up the booster of all engine compartment fittings and lines attached to anything.
Inside the truck remove the pin holding the brake pedal to the pushrod, remove the pushrod from the pedal.
With someone holding the booster in the engine compartment, so it doesn't fall..... or not your choice, undue the 4 nuts holding the booster in place from inside the cab have the helper wiggle remove the booster and pull free from engine compartment.
You now have the booster and the reservoir complete. This leaves the brake pedal itself.
Disconnect the steering shaft from the column, also if the truck is an auto disconnect the shifter rod from the column in the engine compartment or do all the engine compartment stuff at one time when working on hydro lines etc....your choice.
Now move back inside you'll have fun at this point...this is where the fun begins. remove the instrument cluster trim requires removing the lights and wiper knobs, there is a small groove on the back of knob that you can slip an O ring pick or similar tool in and pull towards yourself dissengauging the clip from the shaft allowing removal of the knobs. Remove the actual instrument cluster, disconnecting the speedo cable...the only reason to remove all that instrument cluster and trim is for that damn cable so if you can do it without removing the cluster...do it.
Feed the speedo cable down through the pedal assembly, disconnect the clutch pushrod from the pedal assembly if required.
Remove the bolts holding the column in the firewall.
If the truck is an auto disconnect the PRNDL cable from the column, then loosen the column mounting bolts and carefully lower column down, disconnect all wiring, and remove the column from the cab being careful not to damage wires or anything else.
With column removed, there are 3 bolts/nuts holding the pedal assembly up into the dash, they are accessed from underneath the dash looking up from the footwell area, remove those and carefully remove the pedal assembly.
Now you have your pedal assembly, if it's the same as what your putting the brake booster into....EG an Auto to auto, Std to Std... then you don't need to do anything more except to check for wear on the bushings and replace as needed.
Now you do the same to remove the vacuum booster and pedal assembly from the truck your converting, then reverse the order to install the hydro assembly.
My suggestion, IMHO is to install all new O rings on all lines and the pump reservoir and pressure fittings, as it is simpler to do this now than later!
Good luck hope this helps...
Oh ya if your truck is a Standard, now would be the perfect time to install one of Freebird01 plates for reinforcing the clutch/firewall see link to article here
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44519
Same article with tad more info here
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186116
Hope this assists you in your swap.
Al
