If you put felpros on there, you would have a heck of a mess to clean up if you took those heads off just to replace teh fastners .cleaning up after those stinking things always turns into a half day job to get all their crumbly crud off everything , I'd be inclined to just loosen them all up till about 4 are about taught to prevent any slippage,( which it really shouldnt move anyway once the ring on top of the pistons has been clamped into place, but doesnt hurt to play it a little safe ) then pop all the rest and replace with the studs and then replace the last of them and go through the routine I would remove the intake manifold so it isn't forcing the heads around and sliding them on the gaskets.
What would you Do
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
My engine builder friend does number of racing engines diesels ect, and he soaks the hardware, studs, in engine oil overnight and threads the studs down into the block till stops at hand tight. Then backs off a 1/4 turn, all by hand. Then hg, heads, nuts. Torques in order in 25lbs increments till max torque. Checks the next morning for final check then forgets about them.
Hg are cheap compared to your or his time.
Hg are cheap compared to your or his time.
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
instead of doing all that work how about i just give you some money and buy those arp studs from you? that way you dont have to do anything to the engine, so no worries about headgaskets, and you dont have to buy any more headgaskets, sounds like a win win for everyone.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Use the ARP special lube and the stud torque is 100 lbs. Use 30 wt engine oil and the torque is 130 lbs on the same stud to achieve the same clamping power. I thank all the ideas because this is what this forum is famous for. Giving a reason for your answer is the most important thing btw. Nothing is learned by telling someone asking a question to not do that but to do something else.. givinhg a reason helps those that don't know what can or will happen... A good example is the utube viedos on how to remove an injection pump by keeping the pump, gear cover and housing all as one piece. We all know thats a crap shoot at best thinking you are going to get the injection pump gear and the cam gear timed properly. You can't see the gears meshing together so you have to make a guess... Even if you make the marks on the housing there still is no reason but hope that you are doing it correctly.. Just remove the injection pump from the housing and save the gear timing issues.... My original question was not for me but another member that pmed me this question so I brought it here. That member felt my oppinion was a better deal than asking it here because of all the possible answers. I still enjoy reading the answers. They give me information that has a reason for it...Knowledge is power... The more we have the easier it is to make a decision....
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Remember this is JM2CW...but I learned this from a very competent machinist/mechanic/engine builder...Fat man...Old Bill as I know him...
so....Yes..yes I would RE use the old gaskets, this is the key...
DON"T cycle the studs up to torque and back off with new gaskets...get those studs cycled to torque as required....suggested by ARP.
Once that's done, remove the heads...not the studs...just pull heads off and the gaskets then quick clean, install new gaskets torque head down accordingly. DONE.
It is really NOT a good idea to up/down torque that new gasket repeatedly IMHO. Or my mentors!
When we used to bore blocks and hone them, we would bore with plate/studs/bolts and gasket on...hone same...then remove the setup.
If customer wanted to stud engine, we used studs...if customer was using bolts...we used bolts...always use the fastener of choice when doing this and gasket of choice....measure PRE torque thickness...of the two sets of gaskets..make sure they are within satisfactory margines 001/0015 there bouts max difference!
It is always best practice to use a gasket the same as your going to use on final assembly for all the mock up...valve clearance checking etc. consider them throw away....then upon final assembly use a fresh gaskets!
You probably could get away with doing less than suggested, Gary did ask what we would do...and I knew he knew why I suggested that method. I suppose for sake of clarity I should have been more clear as to why.
If a place does not have a deck plate to bore/hone your block...IMHO find another place! Otherwise you will have out of round cylinders when you bolt the heads on! This can be proven very easily!
I tend to for the sake of cheap gaskets...do things over kill....rather do it my way, than failure later....
THIS falls into ALWAYS TIME TO DO IT RIGHT...never wanting to HAVE to do it over!
Gary,
Did the OP of the question you posted settle on a method of doing this and if so, what method was chosen and why?
If the OP is not going to use the studs, send em my way, I'll use em to their fullest capability I tell ya!
AL
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