Nickbf2504x4
ATV Racr-IDI Driver
passenger or drivers side? just had a thought...
what side is the #3 cyl. on?
- Thread starter Nickbf2504x4
- Start date
argve
Resident Fruitcake
Passengers side.
numbering goes like this.
Drivers side
2 - up front
4
6
8 - in the rear
Passengers side
1 - up front (has the extra piece on the injector)
3
5
7 - in the rear
numbering goes like this.
Drivers side
2 - up front
4
6
8 - in the rear
Passengers side
1 - up front (has the extra piece on the injector)
3
5
7 - in the rear
Max Power
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Unless you drive a cummins. 
rancherman84
P.E.R.F.E.C.T!
what was the thought?
Nickbf2504x4
ATV Racr-IDI Driver
well that shop told me that my #3 cyl. had low compression... and i installed the passenger sise injectors WITHOUT a torque wrench :Sly
. Good for you.
I see the plot is starting to thicken.....
tell me.....are you sure you pulled the old copper washers out too?
tell me.....are you sure you pulled the old copper washers out too?
Nickbf2504x4
ATV Racr-IDI Driver
Cal-
Im 99% sure I got them all out, because I remember that I had tried to install a new injector + washer, in a cylinder that I forgot to rid of the old washer, and the injector wouldn't even start to thread. Then I realized what i did and fished the old one out...
But I guess there is a chance one was left. What effect would this have?
BTW
I called the owner of the shop this morning just brimming with great knowledge, thanks to you guys
, I started naming off all the low-compression possibilities just as Rob had mentioned...
1. HG
2. Valves
3. Catavation
4. Rings/Piston
5....loose injector...
They said that compression in 1 and 5 were normal so they ruled a HG out,
I told him that i hadn't noticed an increase in Blowby out the RDT, or pressure in the cooling system, so I personally ruled #4 and #3 out,
He said they would check the torque of the injectors, then pull the valve cover and take a gander :Sly he said if there was carbon build-up in the valve seat and under the cover it would prob. be a valve problem...sound right?
I deffinately feel accomplished, I think I caught the Mechanic way off guard, I don't think he realized I have a lot of knowledge for my 19 years...
Thanks to OB.net
Im 99% sure I got them all out, because I remember that I had tried to install a new injector + washer, in a cylinder that I forgot to rid of the old washer, and the injector wouldn't even start to thread. Then I realized what i did and fished the old one out...
But I guess there is a chance one was left. What effect would this have?
BTW
I called the owner of the shop this morning just brimming with great knowledge, thanks to you guys
, I started naming off all the low-compression possibilities just as Rob had mentioned...1. HG
2. Valves
3. Catavation
4. Rings/Piston
5....loose injector...
They said that compression in 1 and 5 were normal so they ruled a HG out,
I told him that i hadn't noticed an increase in Blowby out the RDT, or pressure in the cooling system, so I personally ruled #4 and #3 out,
He said they would check the torque of the injectors, then pull the valve cover and take a gander :Sly he said if there was carbon build-up in the valve seat and under the cover it would prob. be a valve problem...sound right?
I deffinately feel accomplished, I think I caught the Mechanic way off guard, I don't think he realized I have a lot of knowledge for my 19 years...
Thanks to OB.net
I've seen plenty of cases where the last copper was still left in and the injector was able to still thread in.Nickbf2504x4 said:Cal-
Im 99% sure I got them all out, because I remember that I had tried to install a new injector + washer, in a cylinder that I forgot to rid of the old washer, and the injector wouldn't even start to thread. Then I realized what i did and fished the old one out...
But I guess there is a chance one was left. What effect would this have?
Often the stacking of the copper washers will give the compression gasses a escape path. Just a WAG on your potential compression issue.
Btw....just a suggestion...be humble with your "suggestions" of what may be wrong to the shop. Remember, you are in his "sandbox" and it is very easy for them to misinterpret your suggestions as you telling them that they are not doing a thorough or competent job. There's all sorts of possibilities of "sabatoge" that can be done as a result or some very expensive diagnostic time charges. I had the joy of dealing with know-it-all engineers for years in the sillycon valley....believe me, there are many ways to set them up to look like a fool and hit their wallet at the same time.
argve
Resident Fruitcake
Well contray to popular belief you DON'T have to use a torque wrench just snug them down with a 1/2" drive ratchet then give a slight pull about 1/8th turn and your good to go - I never torqued mine down and never had one leak that I know of... But then again I pull wrenches for a living so I sort of got a feel for when something seats.
remember guys.....this is coming from the guy(goat acutally) who does thermo-nuclear meltdowns on IDI's.....argve said:
F350camper
BOOST!
Ya, I think he was getting them by the 6 pack from jasper near the end. Course, I didnt help much.
pafixitman
Registered User
towcat said:remember guys.....this is coming from the guy(goat acutally) who does thermo-nuclear meltdowns on IDI's.....
Judging from some recent posts he also did those VW commercials where the guy had the lead foot.
argve
Resident Fruitcake
:draw 
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