Well past time for brakes

[TronDD]

Had a front caliper stick, which I guess is pretty common. Thought maybe the slider pins needed some grease. This is the first time I've looked at the brakes since I bought the truck last year. Well the pins had no grease on them and looked like they never had, plus the piston boots were just tattered shreds, the pads are almost used up, and the rotors are deeply scored.

As is typical, a little job has turned into a much bigger one. I've been searching around but haven't seen any real consensus on what brand of caliper or rotor is best. Is this not a case of where one brand (like Motorcraft) far out performs the others? I don't go cheap on brakes, but there is a huge difference in price on calipers. Or should I try and rebuild my calipers? They look decent, but I'm afraid with the boots so badly torn for who knows how long, the cylinders might be pitted and they'll just destroy new seals or be leaky.

Also, since I have to pull the hub to replace the rotor (4WD, manual hubs), which I have never done, there is a seal that needs to be replaced. What seal is that? Is it this guy:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1839930&cc=1124468

Any other fun I might be in store for?

Tim.

 

[79jasper]

Look into the ambulance grade pads.
Also since you're doing pads and calipers, could maybe save a little by getting the "loaded calipers."
Also frozenrotors.com has a discount for ob members.
Same with rock auto.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[chris142]

wheel bearings and brakes are the first thing i do to a used car. mine needed everything since the last guy packed the bearings with white lithium. you will need the socket for the nuts that hold the hubs and rotors on.

 

[TDI]

I have bought my brake supplies from Rock Auto, get the best quality that they have available if you are going to go that route. Overall I was happy with the products, I did everything - booster - master -pads- shoes -seals - including all the flexible lines etc - they also sell caliper rebuild kits for just a few bucks if thats the route you want to take. Brake booster made a HUGE difference and since I needed a master cyl it was a no brainer.

one thing that I always find is critical for any brake job is to completely flush out the brake lines at all 4 corners, you will not believe the sludge that comes out of there - good idea to do every couple of years - and the newer DOT 4 or racing type fluids are better then the good old corner store DOT 3. I personally like the Ate brand blue, when i flush out the lines and I see that blue fluid you know you are done, I alternate using the clear fluid on the next flush and when all the blue is gone you know that you have flushed it completely.

My MISTAKE was cheaping out and not buying new wheel bearings - what an idiot, now I have to pull it apart again!

Look at their "fully loaded" options, sometimes its cheaper to buy a caliper with the pads already installed then to buy them separately, same with the brake booster / master cylinder combo kits.

But my truck is a 1985 , some sort of transition period for Ford , a lot of the parts I got from RA would not fit my truck and of course I get a return authorization but never mail them back because a 6$ closeout special brake line is not worth spending 5$ to mail it back...you get the idea.

 

[ironworker40]

I did mine last month. I used Raybestos calipers. I like Raybestos brake products. Amazon had them for $47 and $49 not loaded but with spring clip and pins. No core charge so I'm going to rebuild the old ones. When reassembling make sure to used brake caliper grease on caliper and and the bracket were it slides. Some people use never seize.
If you go the re build route you can save money. Be careful when removing pistons. I use 2 c-clamps and air psi. Back each one out a little at a time. Get them bolth almost out, then pop one out, then the other you can use a rag and your hand over the piston bore of the removed piston and last one should come out. Keep the c clamp on the whole time because it will pop out with some force. Get rebuild kits with new pistons