Water Pouring out of bell housing.

[beckty85]

Wa

Pull the thermostat and get rid of that little ball bearing "check ball" in the upper radiator hose neck. Your bleeding problems will be over.


Why? Not only will it do far less than the stock fan does if it gets hot enough to lock in, but it's just that much more to fail.
And, the clutch should be keeping it from drawing much power when it's /not/ hot.
Electric fans are for toy cars, not trucks.

I was leaning toward the electric setup cause of the power loss (20hp?) Of the stock fan setup

 

[Macrobb]

Wa


I was leaning toward the electric setup cause of the power loss (20hp?) Of the stock fan setup

Think about it this way:
With the clutch not locked, I doubt it consumes 20HP. That's quite a bit of power. Maby 1HP seems reasonable.
With the clutch locked, yeah, I'll bet you it consumes 20HP(and converts that into air flow). But it only locks when the engine is over 230? 240?F. AKA, when it's so hot you absolutely need that cooling.
And at that point, your electric fan won't cut it. It simply can't put out more than 1HP total, even if you had a 60A circuit and motor that drew that.
Lets assume you went all out and put *two* of them in there. That 2 HP, 120A of draw... and more than your alternator can put out without melting down sooner or later.
(especially if there's any other loads on that alternator, like lights or climate control fan)

And, even if you did that, it's still only 10% of the air flow of a locked stock fan.

Remember, it only locks when you need it, when it gets hot.

Also, check this out:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Also, I'll point out that our fans are probably slightly larger than the chevy fans shown there... but we also run at half the RPM, so the total loss is a lot less. The bottom end of the curves in that video is at 3K, which is basically redline in an IDI.


edit:
One way to test if you are actually losing much: Just take it off and drive around. Unloaded, if you aren't stuck in traffic for minutes at a time, they'll run just fine with no fan. It's only low-speed driving or pulling long grades with a load(camper or trailer) that you actually need the fan.

 

[beckty85]

Think about it this way:
With the clutch not locked, I doubt it consumes 20HP. That's quite a bit of power. Maby 1HP seems reasonable.
With the clutch locked, yeah, I'll bet you it consumes 20HP(and converts that into air flow). But it only locks when the engine is over 230? 240?F. AKA, when it's so hot you absolutely need that cooling.
And at that point, your electric fan won't cut it. It simply can't put out more than 1HP total, even if you had a 60A circuit and motor that drew that.
Lets assume you went all out and put *two* of them in there. That 2 HP, 120A of draw... and more than your alternator can put out without melting down sooner or later.
(especially if there's any other loads on that alternator, like lights or climate control fan)

And, even if you did that, it's still only 10% of the air flow of a locked stock fan.

Remember, it only locks when you need it, when it gets hot.

Also, check this out:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Also, I'll point out that our fans are probably slightly larger than the chevy fans shown there... but we also run at half the RPM, so the total loss is a lot less. The bottom end of the curves in that video is at 3K, which is basically redline in an IDI.

Putting the stock fan on now.. .

 

[icanfixall]

That video was pure crap. Anyone notice the radiator had no coolant running thru it so the clutch fan could get heat to open or close the internal bleed port.... Well they got paid to "show you the truth"... Wow...

 

[Macrobb]

That video was pure crap. Anyone notice the radiator had no coolant running thru it so the clutch fan could get heat to open or close the internal bleed port.... Well they got paid to "show you the truth"... Wow...

Unless it got hot enough to lock up... would it make a difference? They would have been running these tests at ambient(60-75f) which would give decent viscosity on the oil. It might take less power when unlocked if it was warmer, until it got hot enough to lock... but I'm not sure the actual numbers.

Anyone want to sponsor a bunch of dyno tests?

 

[franklin2]

Think about it this way:
With the clutch not locked, I doubt it consumes 20HP. That's quite a bit of power. Maby 1HP seems reasonable.
With the clutch locked, yeah, I'll bet you it consumes 20HP(and converts that into air flow). But it only locks when the engine is over 230? 240?F. AKA, when it's so hot you absolutely need that cooling.
And at that point, your electric fan won't cut it. It simply can't put out more than 1HP total, even if you had a 60A circuit and motor that drew that.
Lets assume you went all out and put *two* of them in there. That 2 HP, 120A of draw... and more than your alternator can put out without melting down sooner or later.
(especially if there's any other loads on that alternator, like lights or climate control fan)

And, even if you did that, it's still only 10% of the air flow of a locked stock fan.

Remember, it only locks when you need it, when it gets hot.

Also, check this out:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Also, I'll point out that our fans are probably slightly larger than the chevy fans shown there... but we also run at half the RPM, so the total loss is a lot less. The bottom end of the curves in that video is at 3K, which is basically redline in an IDI.


edit:
One way to test if you are actually losing much: Just take it off and drive around. Unloaded, if you aren't stuck in traffic for minutes at a time, they'll run just fine with no fan. It's only low-speed driving or pulling long grades with a load(camper or trailer) that you actually need the fan.

If I remember correctly, our fans are 23 inches in diameter. I was looking for a flex fan to retro-fit and could not find one big enough. I bought two 16 inch aftermarket electric fans from the parts store(the imperial brand) and tried them on my truck. They would not keep it cool. And for some reason, when I am pulling a load, even at 70mph, I need a fan. The airflow from driving down the road is not enough to keep it cool.

 

[Macrobb]

I bought two 16 inch aftermarket electric fans from the parts store(the imperial brand) and tried them on my truck. They would not keep it cool. And for some reason, when I am pulling a load, even at 70mph, I need a fan. The airflow from driving down the road is not enough to keep it cool.

What sort of mileage? Have you checked your thermostat recently? Timing?

 

[79jasper]

Ffdynamics has some kits for the powerstrokes. They're not your run if the mill parts store fan.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Thewespaul]

Our fans are much heavier than anything they tested, and even with the clutch unlocked it’s still mass the engine has to spin...

 

[franklin2]

What sort of mileage? Have you checked your thermostat recently? Timing?

My truck runs fine. Has 148,000 on it, no turbo. I have a champion aluminum radiator. Everyone is correct, unloaded, you really do not even need a fan. Put a load behind it, I have got to have a fan on it. The more I press on the throttle, the hotter it gets, even doing 70 mph.

I was reading about some other guys having this problem, and they were discussing how some of the slightly later powerstrokes had extra holes in the chrome bumper that seemed to help with this problem.

 

[beckty85]

failed to mention the other day.

Truck is puffing out the oil dipstick.

ordered a new cdr today so i will be installing that on friday. Hopefully find the source of the oil leak at the same time.

 

[Golden Helmet]

Our fans are much heavier than anything they tested, and even with the clutch unlocked it’s still mass the engine has to spin...

Just to throw my two cents in, I drove my truck around for a month with no fan at all. I didn't notice any gain in power compared to before w/ the old 300k mile fan clutch. However, once the fan was put back on with a NEW clutch, my butt-dyno noticed a significant drop in power as soon as I left the driveway, and the truck got a whole lot louder

My theory is my old fan clutch was so "done" that it was slipping and never turning the fan as hard as it should've been, it was enough airflow to keep the engine cool but it couldn't grab on hard enough to put a noticeable load on the engine or make any noise. The new clutch is much more solidly engaged with the fan, so even when it's unlocked it's still grabbing hard enough to put a load on the engine and make some noise.

 

[Macrobb]

failed to mention the other day.

Truck is puffing out the oil dipstick.

ordered a new cdr today so i will be installing that on friday. Hopefully find the source of the oil leak at the same time.

Chances are the CDR is not the problem, as long as you can blow through it. It should be open all the time anyway(unless you have a very restricted air filter), and that's usually how they fail.

 

[beckty85]

So the oil puffing is all good. It goes away just above idle. Got the fuel gauge working for the rear tank .front is wire problems I believe.

BAD news, freeze plug behind pass side motor mount is leaking. It looked suspect. How hard is that one to do with the motor in place. I can see the motor mount has to come off for sure. Any other tips and trickz?

Thanks